Induction brass annealer redux

[Gina1]

Over 3,000 posts in this thread.
This thread should really be a sticky by now.

Love all the open source information and how this project has evolved.

After extensive research I was inspired to buy the mgnz Arduino + mgnz shield as well as a 3d printer and go that build route with my own ideas thrown in there.


Word to the wise, Amazon is selling the exact same components you can buy on AliExpress, with a large markup... That was a no brainier to just buy direct.

I was at least able to source Mean Well Taiwanese power supplies... Damn near everything else is only produced in China...

Should be a fun project.

Thanks to all that contributed to this thread and on other sites.

I feel like a great grand ma, thanks to all of you. 6 years old this month

Gina1

 

[232]

TRUMP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[itchyTF]

TRUMP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Don’t understand the relevance to the thread.

 

[Gina1]

Don’t understand the relevance to the thread.

Nether do I

 

[WildBill3/75]

Looking forward to hear about your progress. Maybe you can post a list of the materials and design to help others.
Cheers

I'll make a post when I start getting things together with pictures. Right now I'm in Europe for a few more weeks.

I followed the mgnz build pretty closely and only altered a few items.
That build list can be found on the mgnz website. https://www.mgnz-makes.com/

Parts can be sourced from Amazon or AliExpress, it's really up to you how fast you want it.

The Arduino and shield come direct from Mark in New Zealand. He ships fast and responds to emails quickly.

 

[RudolphK]

Over 3,000 posts in this thread.
This thread should really be a sticky by now.

Love all the open source information and how this project has evolved.

After extensive research I was inspired to buy the mgnz Arduino + mgnz shield as well as a 3d printer and go that build route with my own ideas thrown in there.


Word to the wise, Amazon is selling the exact same components you can buy on AliExpress, with a large markup... That was a no brainier to just buy direct.

I was at least able to source Mean Well Taiwanese power supplies... Damn near everything else is only produced in China...

Should be a fun project.

Thanks to all that contributed to this thread and on other sites.

Can you share the Mean Well power supply source?

 

[WildBill3/75]

Can you share the Mean Well power supply source?

I sourced my Mean Well Se-600-48 off eBay. I got lucky and found someone that had a new one that they didn't want and got it for half price.

Edit- Mean Well rs-35-12 was sourced on eBay as well.... Some of those are made in Taiwan and some in China.... Most on eBay are Chinese and you got to ask seller or look at pictures well... if that matters to you.

 

[Scott-ak]

I got my MGNZ system up and running. It was not without difficulty. The first ZVS board was bad and then I couldn't get the system to operate using the drop servo. I had two and both would cause the MGNZ board to reboot when it actuated. Sometimes after one case and sometimes after 3 or 4. I switched to a solenoid and it runs fine.
I currently have a 1/8" - 7 wrap coil, about .75" ID. IMO it's too tall. The case mouth gets hot much faster than the shoulder. My first attempt at a double wrap didn't work and will try again when more tubing arrives. Personally I think tuning the coil is the hardest part of the system. I'd like to try 1/4" tubing but it's a pain to wrap.
Mark has been great at providing technical support

 

[oliverpsmile]

Re: MGNZ Case feeder

Any recommendations for 3D printer to do the job?

Thanks

 

[WildBill3/75]

Re: MGNZ Case feeder

Any recommendations for 3D printer to do the job?

Thanks

That's a loaded question.
Good news is that printers have come way way down in price and there is a ton of competition in that market which is great for the consumer.

Reddit had a large thread on this topic.

https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/x32ezr

 

[Scott-ak]

I continue working on coils by trial an error. The first single coil works but I think it is too long. If I put the case more than halfway into the coil the heating time increases so long that too much of the case gets very hot. At half way into the coil it doesn't look to get annealed down to the shoulder.
I tried a double coil 4x3 and it overloads the power supply when doing 308 brass after about 3 seconds. Just as the case mouth flashes red the power supply trips. I think the next thing I'll try is a 3x2 double. Any tips appreciated

As an aside. If you anneal the tubing it is really easy to resuse. Unwind, heat w/torch until red and it'll be dead soft.

 

[itchyTF]

The second pic looks like a short waiting to happen. I’d suggest getting some of that silicone braided tubing which prevents shorts and allows the coil to be wound tighter. I would also reduce the ID so that it’s a little larger than the OD of the case.

An example (post 2,574) -
Tubing

 

[Scott-ak]

The second pic looks like a short waiting to happen. I’d suggest getting some of that silicone braided tubing which prevents shorts and allows the coil to be wound tighter. I would also reduce the ID so that it’s a little larger than the OD of the case.

An example (post 2,574) -
Tubing

thanx, yes it would short it the tubes made contact. If I understand correctly making the coil smaller increases current thru the ZVS. Not sure I want to, need to, go there? The larger single wound coil anneals 556 in 2.3s to an 1/8" below the shoulder. It does the 308 neck in 3.5 but doesn't reach blow the shoulder. Increasing the time to 6 seconds and the case almost to the top of the coil gets the anneal past the shoulder but it seems like the whole case is getting screaming hot. I'd need to get a bunch of templac to measure what temp and how far. Just gut feel that the whole case is too hot but I really don't know.

 

[Dave M.]

What trap door actuator are you guys using? I know the original one from Gina’s build is no longer available. I’ve built 4 machines now and surprisingly the trap door solenoid seems to be consistently one of the hardest components to source.
Dave

 

[itchyTF]

I used an S-17-85-28Q from this place. I used the SP10 return spring.
I had a hard time finding one that had enough stroke and pull force. The last build I used a lever system with this solenoid because I needed it to drop 50BMG.

Not the best picture-

 

[Gina1]

Let me pass this on. The original solenoid was a 12 volt DC 1" stroke solenoid. (no longer available) as everyone has found out.
A 24 volt DC solenoid with a 1" stroke can be found (I don't remember where) hooking it up to the 48 VDC ZVS power supply is doable. YES !! you are over diving it.. BUT only for a very short period of time, so it wont over heat, further you could reduce the current through it by putting a resister in series with the coil.
Just an idea
Gina

 

[nxtastro]

Does anyone have a schematic file to put one of these together. I looked at page 110 and i can get it to load.

 

[txtaxman]

Here you are.

 

[Gina1]

 

[Dave M.]

I used an S-17-85-28Q from this place. I used the SP10 return spring.
I had a hard time finding one that had enough stroke and pull force. The last build I used a lever system with this solenoid because I needed it to drop 50BMG.

Not the best picture-
View attachment 1367552

Can you possibly post a video of that linkage in motion? That looks pretty slick. I’m definitely finding the same issue with the stroke and force combo being an issue too.
Dave