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Induction brass annealer redux

Hello everyone, I am sharing my new build of Auto Case Induction Annealer thanks to most of you guys... especially to Gina&Erick:)


Test: 20pcs Remington 308Win brass for 2 min. (1.9 sec programmed anneal time)
Just curious, do you know what frequency your annealer is running at?
 
Just curious, do you know what frequency your annealer is running at?
I do not have precise value...around 105KHz assume... I tried a lot of coils with different copper tube... Concerning temperature and speed this is winning coil...,for now:
-1/8" (8 AWG), ID= 0.600" , L = 2.10", 12.5 turns = 1.9 sec anneal time Remington brass 308Win
 
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Hi,

Does anyone have any experience of using current control on a meanwell rsp-750-48? I’m having problems where the PSU goes into overload protection as soon as the induction board activates. If I link out pins 7-8 and disregard current control it works fine, albeit with high amps due to a slightly different coil design.

For current control I’m using a 7 position switch varying the voltage to pin 7 between 2.9v and 5v. As far as I’ve read I only need the +dc connection onto pin 7 and nothing else. Is this correct?

Thank you for any advise.

Jon
 
That's correct. You need V+ and GND to your switch obviously. Have you tested what voltages you have from the switch to pin 7? (Test it versus pin 11 on the 750 PSU.)

FWIW while I have this control working I never use it...
 
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I’ve got 5v+ on pin 1 of the 7 position switch, GND from the 5v transformer to position 7, resistors between those pins giving 5.1v down to 2.9v depending on switch position. Should I test between pin 7 and 11 on the PSU? Also on the diagrams I’ve seen on this thread people are using remote sense using pins 1 and 3, is this necessary?
 
Disconnect the wire you have from your switch to Meanwell PSU pin 7 at pin 7. Measure the voltage differential from this lead to pin 11 on the PSU. It is GND at pin 11 that the PSU uses. Check this at each of the switch positions first.

Check that all the other jumpers on the Meanwell PSU are in place as per diagram 4.1 here

I wouldn't bother with remote sensing.
 
Is there a schematic available anymore? Looks like the post on page 1 is missing it and the one on page 110 is so small it's impossible to read.

Thanks!
 
Disconnect the wire you have from your switch to Meanwell PSU pin 7 at pin 7. Measure the voltage differential from this lead to pin 11 on the PSU. It is GND at pin 11 that the PSU uses. Check this at each of the switch positions first.

Check that all the other jumpers on the Meanwell PSU are in place as per diagram 4.1 here

I wouldn't bother with remote sensing.
I’ve checked at the switch and it’s working as it should. When I do as you say and measure between pins 7-11 I have a small voltage moving about between .8 and 2v. If I measure between pins 8-11 there is 5.7v, so 11 is referencing to ground.

Thank you for your help so far.
 
I’ve checked at the switch and it’s working as it should. When I do as you say and measure between pins 7-11 I have a small voltage moving about between .8 and 2v. If I measure between pins 8-11 there is 5.7v, so 11 is referencing to ground.

Thank you for your help so far.


I assume you removed the short between Pin 7 and 8. You need to cut the jumper and attach the tag from pin 7 to your switch. (If you are not going to use current control the jumper needs to be reconnected.)

※ Caution: By factory default, the Output Current Programming is not activated, and PC(pin7) and PO(pin8) are shorted by connector. Whenever this function is not needed to activate, as assumed in other sections’ diagrams, please keep PC(pin7) and PO(pin8) shorted ; otherwise, the power supply will have no output.
 
Hi, yes, link between 7-8 cut and my variable 5v soldered onto pin 7. I’ve got 3 power supplies in total in the build, the main 48v, 12v and the 5v, should all the grounds be referenced together?
 
When I do as you say and measure between pins 7-11 I have a small voltage moving about between .8 and 2v.
Just to be clear, I said to measure the voltage across the disconnected lead from your variable switch (that would otherwise go to pin 7 on the PSU) and pin 11 on the Meanwell PSU. You should be getting a range from 2.9v and 5.1v. If not, measure any differential between GND on the switch and GND on the Meanwell PSU. A differential there will cause problems.

Do you have all your power supplies linked to chassis earth, in turn connected to safety earth on the power inlet?
 
Just to be clear, I said to measure the voltage across the disconnected lead from your variable switch (that would otherwise go to pin 7 on the PSU) and pin 11 on the Meanwell PSU. You should be getting a range from 2.9v and 5.1v. If not, measure any differential between GND on the switch and GND on the Meanwell PSU. A differential there will cause problems.

Do you have all your power supplies linked to chassis earth, in turn connected to safety earth on the power inlet?
Yes, that’s what I did. All sorted now, just needle the dc grounds linking.

Thank you for your help.
 
I have put together the annealer. It works well. I am having hard time soldering the 1/8 copper tube to the bigger tube so I water cool the coil. How do you solder copper tubbing? Is it the same as soldering a wire to a circuit board? Is there any other way to join two mismatched copper tubing? Totally new to these things? Any help will be appreciated?
 
Need to get it hot! You can use a torch but don’t get the solder in the flame. Heat gradually, remove torch and see if solder melts at the joint. If not, heat some more and repeat. Can’t remember the exact reaction (bubbling maybe) but it can get too hot. Work up to it gradually.

What is your bigger tube? 1/4” OD with 1/8” ID?
 

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