Induction brass annealer redux

[Mike Camilleri]

Thanks Gina,

I will continue to follow the orginal schematic. I agree with why you went with a heavy duty contactor similar to what is used in an furnace blower motor circuit. Way more robust then 12 volt automotive relay in my opinion.

 

[Gina1]

Thanks Gina,

I will continue to follow the orginal schematic. I agree with why you went with a heavy duty contactor similar to what is used in an furnace blower motor circuit. Way more robust then 12 volt automotive relay in my opinion.

 

[jthor]

Gina just likes the Click Clack sound of the contactor.... hahaha

 

[SGK]

One thing to consider with the automotive relays is that they are generally only rated for switching 24V. A friend of mine who is duplicating my build, with an automotive relay, blew his relay. It fused shut i.e continually supplying power to the induction board.

 

[Gina1]

"Click" = good solid on contact. "Clack = good solid off, with no arcing. Simple. As Mike said "more robust" So when annealing I get an audio feed back that all is working OK.
Gina

 

[jthor]

Just so you're aware Gina. The folks at AMP annealing know what your annealer is and recommend building it if you aren't going to purchase an AMP annealer. I've been having a pretty decent conversation with them since they released their report on salt bath annealing not working as intended. Their hypothesis as to why is the same as mine. The salt isn't providing enough temperature differential to heat the brass effectively. They're also working on more tests that they will release here soon enough.

 

[David101]

Im sure there thinking is that the more people that get into annealing is a good thing for them. As you either have to be a pretty handy person prepared to do a bit of hard work to build a unit like many here have (A pretty small group in the grand scheme of things). Or in the other category of people that would like to buy a well researched and designed machine that is simple to use that would be the AMP.

 

[Gina1]

Just so you're aware Gina. The folks at AMP annealing know what your annealer is and recommend building it if you aren't going to purchase an AMP annealer. I've been having a pretty decent conversation with them since they released their report on salt bath annealing not working as intended. Their hypothesis as to why is the same as mine. The salt isn't providing enough temperature differential to heat the brass effectively. They're also working on more tests that they will release here soon enough.

WOW... Never expected that. If you talk to them again say "thanks"

 

[GrocMax]

One thing to consider with the automotive relays is that they are generally only rated for switching 24V. A friend of mine who is duplicating my build, with an automotive relay, blew his relay. It fused shut i.e continually supplying power to the induction board.

As with any relay or contactor, there are two voltage/current specs to choose the correct one- contact voltage and current, and operating coil voltage and current. You can get a 240v AC contact relay that the coil is at 12v DC, or vice-versa. Get the right one and all is well.

 

[Matt Findlay]

Im sure there thinking is that the more people that get into annealing is a good thing for them. As you either have to be a pretty handy person prepared to do a bit of hard work to build a unit like many here have (A pretty small group in the grand scheme of things). Or in the other category of people that would like to buy a well researched and designed machine that is simple to use that would be the AMP.

You hit the nail on the head

 

[SGK]

As with any relay or contactor, there are two voltage/current specs to choose the correct one- contact voltage and current, and operating coil voltage and current. You can get a 240v AC contact relay that the coil is at 12v DC, or vice-versa. Get the right one and all is well.

Sure. My point was that the compact relays designed for automotive use are generally only rated for contact voltage of 24V (that being the voltage used in their intended use).

 

[beaker2000]

I am in the process of building my own version of the GinaErick, thanks to all who have contributed, learned a lot by reading, and re-reading this thread! I am always searching for components for my hobbies, looking for great deals on NOS, or under priced items. I found this and wanted to pass it along. This was a deal that was far too good to pass up on a power supply.

These 1000 W power supplies typically sell for $550-$600 TDK-Lambda SW1000L-48 (48V/22Amps) $99 shipped from this seller (we are not related in any way)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/TDK-Lambda-SW1000L-48-Low-Profile-Power-Supply-New/323788864147

 

[Gina1]

I am in the process of building my own version of the GinaErick, thanks to all who have contributed, learned a lot by reading, and re-reading this thread! I am always searching for components for my hobbies, looking for great deals on NOS, or under priced items. I found this and wanted to pass it along. This was a deal that was far too good to pass up on a power supply.

These 1000 W power supplies typically sell for $550-$600 TDK-Lambda SW1000L-48 (48V/22Amps) $99 shipped from this seller (we are not related in any way)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/TDK-Lambda-SW1000L-48-Low-Profile-Power-Supply-New/323788864147

Thank you for the information.
Gina

 

[8mm]

Have they changed the tempilac? My 750° stuff is green.

I am having difficulty removing the Tempilac after testing. The still-green stuff wipes off with laquer thinner, but the changed area has to be scrubbed hard with a scuff pad.
I made a mistake and left tested brass sit a week before trying to remove the stripes of Temp. I soaked a couple stripes in vinegar+salt for an hour then a scuff pad but there is still a rooted brown tarnish. I tried the brass polisher with media but only half the baked stuff came off. It is Tough stuff. Okay to load, but ugly. I tried sandpaper on a couple but had to go too deep to save them. Any suggestions? (except 'don't wait')

 

[David101]

Brake cleaner gets most of it off. But like you say the really cooked stuff is hard to move. A bit of the green nylon brillo pad seems to be enough.

 

[Brucey Boy]

I am having difficulty removing the Tempilac after testing. The still-green stuff wipes off with laquer thinner, but the changed area has to be scrubbed hard with a scuff pad.
I made a mistake and left tested brass sit a week before trying to remove the stripes of Temp. I soaked a couple stripes in vinegar+salt for an hour then a scuff pad but there is still a rooted brown tarnish. I tried the brass polisher with media but only half the baked stuff came off. It is Tough stuff. Okay to load, but ugly. I tried sandpaper on a couple but had to go too deep to save them. Any suggestions? (except 'don't wait')

Just drop them into water for a while. Works every time for me.

 

[djmurf]

I am in the process of building my own version of the GinaErick, thanks to all who have contributed, learned a lot by reading, and re-reading this thread! I am always searching for components for my hobbies, looking for great deals on NOS, or under priced items. I found this and wanted to pass it along. This was a deal that was far too good to pass up on a power supply.

These 1000 W power supplies typically sell for $550-$600 TDK-Lambda SW1000L-48 (48V/22Amps) $99 shipped from this seller (we are not related in any way)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/TDK-Lambda-SW1000L-48-Low-Profile-Power-Supply-New/323788864147

Thanks -- I'm just getting started on my build and picked up one of these -- made an offer of $80 & he countered for $90. Not bad at all!

 

[beaker2000]

Thanks -- I'm just getting started on my build and picked up one of these -- made an offer of $80 & he countered for $90. Not bad at all!

I also picked one up, received it Friday, it is extremely high quality, should work great.

 

[jthor]

Curious on y'all opinions on optimal flash annealing Temps are. The standard for either flame or induction annealers have been using 750F Tempilaq. Brass annealing articles say that 750-800F peak temp is ideal. While on the other hand one of AMPs articles states that their .223 Norma Brass reached a peak temp a tad bit over 1000F. That would be a little over 50F higher than the temp of which brass starts glowing, 950F. A temp everyone in the community says to steer clear of because you will make the brass too soft. When I get back to the states I fully intend on testing this out. Both using a Vickers Hardness testing from the local University as well as looking at the brass crystallization under a 200x microscope.

 

[David101]

What is really needed is a range of Temilaq paints to find out exactly what temps the AMP unit does goto. I have a feeling that they may reduce the peak temperature reached now, as in units with the Aztec. My guess is that there is a light sensor in close proximity to the case. so when the case starts to glow it is picked up by the sensor and a data point is obtained from that. Note AMP now say a sacrificial case is needed. So they must be over heating it. How to tell either temp or colour. So from that fail data point they then back off a certain amount so that they no longer produce any light.
I use the 750 and there is a little bit of room between that temp and starting to change colour, of course this time between those two points is based on the rate of temperature change and why IMO think slower (just a little) is better.