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Induction brass annealer redux

davexre said:
Just judging by the parts required to do a build, it's going to be a good deal more than that, even if someone wanted to spend the time to purchase things up for a "group buy". The power supply alone is still $60, even if purchased 10+ at a time.

Check out the full thread, first, but I think you'd be pretty well off if you just follow Gina's original spec and BoM - it's about $350 in parts. Her doing a group buy just saves you from adding the stuff to your shopping cart on two online stores, and that's about it. I'm in the middle of grabbing my parts right now!
Click to expand...

Anything I can do to help in your build ? One problem builders have run into is the case drop solenoid from Jamco is no longer available. To replace it just look for a 12 volt solenoid that has at a min .5" pull stroke, if not more from any vendor.

Gina
 
Gina,
Will this work?
Packard C230B 2 Pole 30 Amp Contactor, 120 Voltage Coil
Varistor 130vac 6500 or 2500

A Leaphart
 
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Gina1 said:
Anything I can do to help in your build ?
Click to expand...

Thanks, Gina - I will let you know?

I'm going to use the 24v solenoid you pointed out earlier in the thread. Another shooter I know discovered that that solenoid could operate at 48v @ 25% duty cycle (and it works that way in his build), so no need to have a 24v supply in the system just for the solenoid for this application, as it turns out. Pretty cool.

I'm looking forward to getting into it - fun project, and very useful!
 
AWLEAPHART said:
Gina,
Will this work?
Packard C230B 2 Pole 30 Amp Contactor, 120 Voltage Coil
Varistor 130vac 6500 or 2500

A Leaphart
Click to expand...

Yep, both will work.. IF... your line voltage is 110/120 volts AC. We have had a few builds, over sea's, where the line voltage is 220. In those cases the relay needed a 220 volt coil and the varistor
had to be 230 volts..
What the varistor does is keep the timer contacts from sparking, when the relay/contactor coil power is removed. Think of an ignition coil in a car. Any voltage higher than 130 volts will cause the varistor to conduct and short out this high voltage, protecting the timer relay contacts.
 
davexre said:
Thanks, Gina - I will let you know?

I'm going to use the 24v solenoid you pointed out earlier in the thread. Another shooter I know discovered that that solenoid could operate at 48v @ 25% duty cycle (and it works that way in his build), so no need to have a 24v supply in the system just for the solenoid for this application, as it turns out. Pretty cool.

I'm looking forward to getting into it - fun project, and very useful!
Click to expand...
Good idea. On my annealer the drop time is set to .5 seconds out of a total anneal time of (anneal = 4.5 sec, drop time= .5 sec, reload time 3 sec) .5/8.0 = 6.25% duty cycle... Neat !!
Just watch the increased current through the timer relay. I don't remember what the timer relay contacts current limit is, but running 48 volts on a 24 volt solenoid, will pull double the current, through the relay..
 
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Gina1 said:
Just watch the increased current through the timer relay. I don't remember what the timer relay contacts current limit is, but running 48 volts on a 24 volt solenoid, will pull double the current, through the relay..
Click to expand...

Good point - I'll double check that before wiring things up. Sounds like it's working on at least one build, now, though, without further modification, so... :-)
 
davexre said:
Good point - I'll double check that before wiring things up. Sounds like it's working on at least one build, now, though, without further modification, so... :)
Click to expand...

Still pulls less than 1 amp at 48v - should be fine for the timer relay (which says it's rated to 3A, if I'm reading correctly)
 
Every bodies build... "wisdom of the crowd" Some really good idea's come out of this. I'll be the first one to take my hat off to ya'll.

davexre.. When you get yours up and working, how about a picture. I always love to see the different designs.

Gina :)
 
dskogman said:
You could replace the contact relay and varistor on the original design with a solid state relay (SSR). You would need to feed 12v thru timer A (7,8) instead of 120v.

It’s been done on a few Arduino builds but should work fine on the original.
I have done 300 cases as fast as I can feed them and the SSR does not even get warm.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0753R568W/?tag=accuratescom-20
Click to expand...

One of the "good" idea's that have come thru this thread from all the different builders.

dskogman.... Got a picture of your build ? Seeing pictures inspires others to get started.

Have a good weekend
Gina
 
kit-808 said:
Dis stilled water, or de ionised, the stuff you used in iron, that will work well in the cooling system
Click to expand...

In the very beginning I tried that. But algae formed in the warm water. Water clouded up, that's why I went with the coolant. Besides, the blue looks nice. :)
 
hello guys

i,m building and inductor base on you design with a slit difference power supply is 24 volts 20 amps , i,m not and eletronic guru can not find varistor 130 vac from jameco it not avalable any more , my question can i replace 34462 varistor 130 vac by v 130 la20ap LA serie from littlefuse mouser or and other varistor would be more appropriate for this build . thank you
 
When I first started using a water cooled coil for my ANNIE, I put in a little fluid that I keep stocked up on which is for humidifiers to keep down the "growing things" in the coolant water. I have not had a problem and I don't have the toxic automotive coolant loose in the house.
 
Been reading and watching this post for the last week or so......this is an awesome thread! Ordering my supplies withing the next couple of weeks. Gonna build mine in an ventilated electronic project box or reuse an old computer tower. I'll build it first, tweak and change things I want and then make a feeder system controlled by an Ardiuno. :)
 
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