First off.. I'm not an induction guru, just a retired electronic tech/engineer.
Erick, after a lot of trial and error came up with the size/winding for a coil that would work with most rifle cases (308, 6xc, 30-06, 300 win mag, etc) It works !!
It also works in conjunction with the listed induction PCB.
Aeon... I really don't know anything about the induction PCB your link took me to. I can tell you by looking at the picture, the built in fan will not be cooling the capacitors and that is what really gets hot when doing a large number of cases.
Your choice of that lower voltage PS, maybe a good one. The induction PCB (as listed in this thread) will work from 50V-12V (so they say). The name of the game is power (watts). in the case of that 36 volts PS with 597 watts. I know on my annealer I had to lower the PS voltage to 43 volts to keep from pulling excessive current (limit 12.5 on my PS) (with the neck and shoulders in the coil) So 12.5 amps X 43 volts = 537.5 watts. Just remember the more you put a case in the coil, the more current it will draw. The more current, the shorter the annealing time. If your going to go with the 36 volt PS let us know how it works out. When Erick and I started this, 48 volts was chosen as a base line. 36 volts maybe better with this coil.
Scott.. I would stick with a fixed PS. First it's less expensive than one that has all the bells and whistles. If your looking at a remote turn on, as from the timer, to turn on the PS to save the cost of the relay/contactor, the contactor/relay is only 8 bucks. Adjusting the voltage and current on the fly would be nice. But would it be worth it, in the long run.
Some where on youtube.com there is a video (with these induction PCB's) that shows power has to be applied suddenly, in order for the induction circuit to start to oscillate. The relay/contactor will do that. A remote switched on PS most likely will ramp up and may not kick the induction PCB into oscillation.
Hope this help Gina
Erick, after a lot of trial and error came up with the size/winding for a coil that would work with most rifle cases (308, 6xc, 30-06, 300 win mag, etc) It works !!
It also works in conjunction with the listed induction PCB.
Aeon... I really don't know anything about the induction PCB your link took me to. I can tell you by looking at the picture, the built in fan will not be cooling the capacitors and that is what really gets hot when doing a large number of cases.
Your choice of that lower voltage PS, maybe a good one. The induction PCB (as listed in this thread) will work from 50V-12V (so they say). The name of the game is power (watts). in the case of that 36 volts PS with 597 watts. I know on my annealer I had to lower the PS voltage to 43 volts to keep from pulling excessive current (limit 12.5 on my PS) (with the neck and shoulders in the coil) So 12.5 amps X 43 volts = 537.5 watts. Just remember the more you put a case in the coil, the more current it will draw. The more current, the shorter the annealing time. If your going to go with the 36 volt PS let us know how it works out. When Erick and I started this, 48 volts was chosen as a base line. 36 volts maybe better with this coil.
Scott.. I would stick with a fixed PS. First it's less expensive than one that has all the bells and whistles. If your looking at a remote turn on, as from the timer, to turn on the PS to save the cost of the relay/contactor, the contactor/relay is only 8 bucks. Adjusting the voltage and current on the fly would be nice. But would it be worth it, in the long run.
Some where on youtube.com there is a video (with these induction PCB's) that shows power has to be applied suddenly, in order for the induction circuit to start to oscillate. The relay/contactor will do that. A remote switched on PS most likely will ramp up and may not kick the induction PCB into oscillation.
Hope this help Gina