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Induction brass annealer redux

I don't remember what my pump was rated for, but it was more than necessary for 1/8" tubing. I used a home built PWM motor speed control to run it at around 50%. Still sufficient flow and dropped the current in half. If the pump is a gear type with close tolerances then I suspect a blockage (or small diameter tubing) would cause the current draw to rise and might even stall it. An impeller type does not.
 
Hi Itchy
You are correct. The first pump/motor that hollywood used as an immersible one and required an external tank/jar of water. Same type of pump action that the present pump uses. Nice thing about this one, the reservoir/tank is built into it.
I take it from your posts, you have built an annealer. Anything different from the GinaErick you could add to this post. Just as Taltom made his changes/improvements/cost cutting, to the original design... How about yours? Any thing you can add along those lines?

Gina
 
Gina,

These go back a ways. First post in 2012, second in 2014. The others were my comments to others.

http://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/induction-annealer.3783933/

http://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/induction-annealer-almost-done.3857709/

http://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/diy-induction-annealing.3898809/ Post #18

http://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/induction-brass-annealer.3876157/ Posts #30 & 36

I usually overdo everything I make. I like designing stuff so I go a little crazy at times. Built a 1,500 lb log splitter in my youth. Quite the beast!
 
Question on the coil. I see a few induction boards with coils on Amazon, etc. They seem to have the coils touching and not seperated. Am I to assume the tubing has been insulated with something and then coiled? Is there a specific need for the coil layers to be insulated from each other?

Thanks,
Terry
 
taltom said:
Question on the coil. I see a few induction boards with coils on Amazon, etc. They seem to have the coils touching and not seperated. Am I to assume the tubing has been insulated with something and then coiled? Is there a specific need for the coil layers to be insulated from each other?

Thanks,
Terry
Click to expand...

You can coat the coils in a thin layer or lacquer or just make sure they are not touching. If it were to touch it would be like a short and the coil would be less effective.
 
Last edited:
Gina, Concerning the current draw of the inductor PCB "It needs to be limited to 12 amps." How is this done?
I seem to be pulling 12A with nothing in the coil, and with a 308 case, ~14.5Amps. I adjusted the shelf lower and lower, but it didn't seem to matter. 14.5 is with just the neck in, similar to your video.

Thanks
 
Hi Buck

Two things come to mind. (1) your meter may need to be adjusted (there is a small pot on the meter board) The wire from the PS to the contactor has to be at a min 14 gauge stranded, same for the wire from the contactor to the inductor PCB. Check for a loose connection on the meter shunt. What is the inside diameter of your coil ? No shorted coils, touching)
So far of the other GinaErick units built, the no load current draw is about 8.6 amps
My unit I had to drop the 48V PS down to 42.2 volts, that was to limit the current (Max current 12.5 amps) with full case (neck and shoulders in the coil) 6MM dasher case. Still setting trap door for 12.0 amps
When you turn on the annealing is your case getting hot, and how long does it take?

Let me know and I'm sure we can figure this out.

Gina
 
Hi All....

The question of how much current the induction PCB is pulling with no case in the coil has come up a few times. To check it out I put my multimeter (10 amp range) in series with power going to the inductor PCB.
It read 8.6 amps. (+/- a few tenth's) Which is what I'm showing on the panel meter. Best way to really check it if your getting a different reading is with an amp meter, just like I did. You can get an OK digital multimeter from Harbor Freight for under 6 bucks .Always handy to have.
Hope this helps with your builds.

Gina
 
I'm on my way to start building
I picked up 10 feet of 1/4inch tubing
I'm going to fill the tubing with fine sand first then wrap it around a piece of pvc
Then I'll blow the sand out with my air compressor
I'll let yall know how it works soon
 
Hey From...

Will be interesting. As you know the GinaErick coil is made with 1/8" OD copper refrigeration tubing. (8 turns, 1 1/8" diameter). I'm wondering how many turns you are going to do with that 1/4" copper tubing, and what diameter coil you will be shooting for.
New territory for me, I'm curious to see how it flies. BTW what cases are you going to anneal?
Good luck
Gina
 
I shoot .308 mostly
I have a wildcat cartridge in .264rlb that I'll use it for also
Didn't think about the number of turns
Maybe I'll try for 4 seeing how you got 8 with 1/8" pipe
If it doesn't work I'll get the 1/8" pipe
It will be awhile before I can get all the parts
Got to save up my pennies
 
Last edited:
Frog said:
I shoot .308 mostly
I have a wildcat cartridge in .264rlb that I'll use it for also
Didn't think about the number of turns
May I'll try for 4 seeing how you got 8 with 1/8" pipe
If it doesn't work I'll get the 1/8" pipe
It will be awhile before I can get all the parts
Got to save up my pennies
Click to expand...

I purchased three and a half feet of 1/8" copper tubing at a local auto parts store. It's commonly used for mechanical oil pressure gauges. Helps a little to keep the cost down.
 
I built a new coil. This time making sure the inside diameter was 1 1/8", this has resulted in correct current draw. I am now seeing 8.6amp no load and around 11.5amp with case in. My previous coil was smaller, ~7/8". I seem to have a slightly better water flow also. But I had a heck of a time soldering the small to large tubes this time, I will have to monitor it for leaks. Just waiting for some tempilaq 750 that I ordered from Midway now.
 
Ah yep. The closer the case is to the coil the higher the current draw. The 1 1/8" diameter was the work of holywood. Took awhile and many tries to get to that right diameter.
If you look at the beginning of this post, page one. I have some photos on how to solder that small 1/8" tubing into the 1/4" tubing. Been there done that.
Hope that helps

Gina
 
Skunce...

Thanks for the information on the 1/8" tubing. This GinaErick annealer is everybody's build. hollywood and I started the ball rolling. As these units are being build, different builders are coming up with innovations and cost cutting ideas.

Again ... thank you

Gina
 
Gina

Question,
Would the inside diameter of the coil make a difference on what size of cases you are annealing, small case like 22 Hornet -vs- large sizes case like 7 mag etc.

You quoted, "The closer the case is to the coil the higher the current draw. The 1 1/8" diameter was the work of holywood. Took awhile and many tries to get to that right diameter."

Or are you trying to limit/adjust the current draw to a standard set point?

I am attempting to wrap my head around this induction annealing method -vs- the gas annealing method etc.

Tia,
Don
 
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