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Indicating Barrels to chamber

The dial on the 0.00005 is half-again or more larger than the 0.0001 indicator and that is how they can squeeze in the extra mark and make it meaningful.
I like your setup too. Thats my point, they could have squeezed 4 little marks in between delineations on the interapid because the .0005 marks are so far apart and called it a .0001 indicator. For our uses we really only need one mark on the dial. We get caught up in those marks. They could pull out every other mark on that interapid and call it a .001 and it would still be as accurate for dialing purposes.
 
You can spend a boat load on indicators or just buy once cry once. Youll also need a .001 indicator and base for everything else then you may want a plunger type on a magnet for travel of the apron or anything else. I only use 4 on a lathe but 3 of those i use every time. That .0001 indicator is not used a lot only for dialing in throats. Its very fragile
 
Unless you just like spending money - you don't need 4 indicators in this class to start. The 312 is the only one you really need to start and a single mag base (amazon above). If you're really feeling spendy you can get two so you have one at each end without having to move it. I don't know why you would buy 4 however...

Just getting two. One for basic and one for fine. And two bases.
 
I am not buying from Amazon, I am going to buy everything from MSC. I am tryingto track down the part numbers you provide, it is quite difficult from screen captures.
 
I'm not a pro like many of these guys but here is what lives on my tailstock when not in use.

IMG_1478.jpg

I thought small/medium/heavy duty bases would come in useful. The small is less useful than I thought and the heavy duty is too big and gets in the way sometimes. If I had to do it again I'd probably just buy 3 mediums. When you're looking for a dial - see the pic above its .0005 which I find more useful than .001 with 2x the travel. You can eyeball something close enough that you don't really need the extra travel of most .001's when rough dialing barrel OD to just to get close.

I was gifted one of these below by thoughtful father in law for christmas and its more useful than I thought it might be. I usually go to this before moving the mag based other one that is stuck somewhere else. Its also cheap in the grand scheme of indicators.

IMG_1479.jpg
 
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For headspacing - I've been using the DRO on my carriage with the .0005 interapid touching the flat face of the reamer holder. That way i can actually unlock the tailstock and slide it back rather than having crank the barrel in and out many inches for each ream and chip clear.

I see a lot of guys putting a caliper setup on their tailstock so they can measure barrel travel more easily without worrying about backlash, but that only works if you never move the tailstock (which I find convenient).
 
For headspacing - I've been using the DRO on my carriage with the .0005 interapid touching the flat face of the reamer holder. That way i can actually unlock the tailstock and slide it back rather than having crank the barrel in and out many inches for each ream and chip clear.

I see a lot of guys putting a caliper setup on their tailstock so they can measure barrel travel more easily without worrying about backlash, but that only works if you never move the tailstock (which I find convenient).
Its way faster to use a reamer stop. Then you can use a depth mic or a shop built tenon measuring tool and feeler gages to get even faster. Note: this does not work with manson headspace gages. 74418085-C185-4ED2-AC4B-1C53B0796197.png
 
What do you mean by using a depth mic or tenon measuring tool and feeler gauges? I can' envision where the feelers come in, as shims in front of the reamer stop for gross adjustments as you close in on final depth?

My current process is that once I'm "close" to final heaspace (by just using the DRO to get me within say 10 thou) I then take my tenon collar, go guage, and depth mic to see that i'm really 9 thou from where i need to be from last measurement of the indicator+carriage that hasn't moved. so then i can go for a final cut by just watching deflection on the indicator get to appropriate depth.

I have looked at a reamer stop before and agree that seems like it would be less error prone for final cut, since there isn't any chance i could bump indicator, etc.... break out another $250!
 
What do you mean by using a depth mic or tenon measuring tool and feeler gauges? I can' envision where the feelers come in, as shims in front of the reamer stop for gross adjustments as you close in on final depth?

My current process is that once I'm "close" to final heaspace (by just using the DRO to get me within say 10 thou) I then take my tenon collar, go guage, and depth mic to see that i'm really 9 thou from where i need to be from last measurement of the indicator+carriage that hasn't moved. so then i can go for a final cut by just watching deflection on the indicator get to appropriate depth.

I have looked at a reamer stop before and agree that seems like it would be less error prone for final cut, since there isn't any chance i could bump indicator, etc.... break out another $250!
Ill show you a pic later when i chamber one. And yes if you are .009 short you dial in .009 on your stop and you cant even get .010 if you mess up
 
You have to go thru a part number building tool like this

I know the amazon link works to get the right one.

Ok I called MSC and they found the right one with the long stem.




Cheaper than Amazon and in stock and tax exempt.

So, you are saying DON'T get the one with the fine readout to start?
 

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