indicating a barrel for chambering ?

[swd]

on a flat bolt face or a coned bolt face the case sticks out for extractor to grab case soooo radius is in front of extractor groove any radius on end of chamber is a bad deal cases swell and are very difficult to extract

So like I said if it doesn't go any farther than the front of the extractor groove no harm no foul. I've chambered plenty of barrels that had room for a chamfer without going ahead of the extractor groove.

 

[geo.ulrich]

So like I said if it doesn't go any farther than the front of the extractor groove no harm no foul. I've chambered plenty of barrels that had room for a chamfer without going ahead of the extractor groove.

and I have chambered a few 100 myself to each there own, a radius or chamfer is not a good practice so keep doing what you want but it its still a bad practice

 

[swd]

and I have chambered a few 100 myself to each there own, a radius or chamfer is not a good practice so keep doing what you want but it its still a bad practice

I'm curious why if it doesn't go ahead of the extractor groove and unsupportb the case, not trying to argue, just learn something if I can.

 

[geo.ulrich]

I'm curious why if it doesn't go ahead of the extractor groove and unsupportb the case, not trying to argue, just learn something if I can.

ok lets do the math on lets say a Remington front of bolt to face of bolt in the .135-.150 area plus .005 clearance to end of barrel so add lets say a .020 chamfer now we're in .160- .175 area, case web on lets say lapau 6br case case head thickness runs around .190 thick. you are only leaving .030-.015 to web. this is where case WILL swell and if you hit them kinda hard a belt will appear and it will not size down. cone bolts are a lot better with only .110 case protrusion but same problem will be there just takes alittle longer to show up. the only time I would even think about a chamfer or radius would be a belted mag. but why bother. hope this helps

 

[swd]

Thank's makes sense, I'll make some changes.

 

[geo.ulrich]

Thank's makes sense, I'll make some changes.

glad to help sometimes its not so easy to explain, its much easier to show

 

[X-RingCustomGunsmithing]

All of the factory barrels I have ever pulled all have a edge break either radius or chamfer to keep the case from scoring as it enters the chamber and to help guide it in. Cone bolts I don't see the need to break the edge as the cone funnels the cartridge in by design but flat nose bolts I would see the need as the shard 90 degree corner would shave brass as you chamber a round.

 

[geo.ulrich]

All of the factory barrels I have ever pulled all have a edge break either radius or chamfer to keep the case from scoring as it enters the chamber and to help guide it in. Cone bolts I don't see the need to break the edge as the cone funnels the cartridge in by design but flat nose bolts I would see the need as the shard 90 degree corner would shave brass as you chamber a round.

and th

All of the factory barrels I have ever pulled all have a edge break either radius or chamfer to keep the case from scoring as it enters the chamber and to help guide it in. Cone bolts I don't see the need to break the edge as the cone funnels the cartridge in by design but flat nose bolts I would see the need as the shard 90 degree corner would shave brass as you chamber a round.

and how about the custom ones this like saying a ford fiesta is capable of running nascar you just need to hit with emery paper I actually counted I have 78 barrels here now some I have done some were done by a friends, fitting Stolles, bordens , wichitas ,remingtons and receivers I have made and zero have a chamfer just a small break at the edge.

 

[butchlambert]

and th

and how about the custom ones this like saying a ford fiesta is capable of running nascar you just need to hit with emery paper I actually counted I have 78 barrels here now some I have done some were done by a friends, fitting Stolles, bordens , wichitas ,remingtons and receivers I have made and zero have a chamfer just a small break at the edge.

Yup, also like that on my Mausers.

 

[X-RingCustomGunsmithing]

I'm not saying I disagree. But I don't see that it's going to in anyway change performance from a fiesta to a stock car. The gun would probably shoot still bench rest quality the only determining factor would be how aggressive the chamfer or radius would determine brass life and reloading with the case of to much getting in front of the Web to cause case failure.

 

[geo.ulrich]

I'm not saying I disagree. But I don't see that it's going to in anyway change performance from a fiesta to a stock car. The gun would probably shoot still bench rest quality the only determining factor would be how aggressive the chamfer or radius would determine brass life and reloading with the case of to much getting in front of the Web to cause case failure.

Apparently you do not shoot bench rest or you wouldn't be making that statement. there hasn't been a Remington seriously used in at least 25 yrs and a factory barrel since before I started and that's 35 yrs. ago. factory barrels are used with either factory ammo or MILD handloads in the real world of benchrest we are WAY past these pressures so go ahead with your radius or chamfers I have been down the road many miles ago and it will not work....so 50000 c.u.p. vs 70000 c.u.p. is the difference between a fiesta and a stock car. and the difference between cases swelling or not.....

 

[X-RingCustomGunsmithing]

I don't shoot bench rest personally but I have built/chambered several for clients I shoot fclass. I agree with you minimal is the way to go. But as for the break at the chamber edge as long as it's not causing an unsupported chamber by cutting in front of where the Web sits in the chamber it should not cause any issues with case swell. Pressures would have to be fairly excessive to get the solid Web portion to swell by pressing against the bolt face to fill that void. I am fully aware that factory guns and barrels don't shoot bench rest or compete well. I was just referring to that fact that putting an edge break on the chamber end would not effect the accuracy of the gun it would only effect the brass re use factor or potential case failure if they went to far with the break.

 

[boltman223]

I have chambered several different ways before settling on my present method, between centers-steady rest, and different ways in the headstock. Yes, I've tried the Gordy method and didn't cotton to it. Everybody talks about a curved or banana shaped bore. I don't buy that. I think they are more like a very light spiral. None are the same. I am like most and want the bullet to hit the center of the bore when the trigger is pulled. A quick run through. I do my initial set up with Deltronic pins. I have them in sets of 25 ea in .0001 increments for each caliber that I chamber. My center size or nominal pin is the boresize that the barrelmaker tries to hit. Let's say .237 for a 6mm. My set starts at .2358-.2382. A .237 barrel most likely wouldn't be a .237. I use 2 spiders with copper tips. No chucks. I indicate each end. I cut the tenon and thread. I predrill and then reach in with My Mitutoyo 513-504 indicator. I check the land and grooves at the throat area. You can also check the land height. I have an Interapid with a long probe, but I like the Mitutoyo as it has a thin body and will enter a PPC or BR chamber. It has a short probe and doesn't jump around. After I'm satisfied that the throat is indicated in I taper bore to about .020 short of the shoulder. I use a short solid carbide boring bar. When I run my chambering reamer that is pushed and not in a floating holder. I use a loose bush as I DO NOT want the end of the reamer following an unstraight bore. I want the reamer to follow my taper reamed hole. I now have a chamber with the bullet coaxial to the throat. Neither you nor I have any control over what the bore does after this point. Running a long rod through a crooked bore will not straighten it, but we really don't care. On the muzzle end the crown needs to be perpendicular to the bore.
All of this said, if you can't shoot or can't do precision reloading, you are just going to have fun and shoot poor groups.

Thanks butch.

 

[geo.ulrich]

I don't shoot bench rest personally but I have built/chambered several for clients I shoot fclass. I agree with you minimal is the way to go. But as for the break at the chamber edge as long as it's not causing an unsupported chamber by cutting in front of where the Web sits in the chamber it should not cause any issues with case swell. Pressures would have to be fairly excessive to get the solid Web portion to swell by pressing against the bolt face to fill that void. I am fully aware that factory guns and barrels don't shoot bench rest or compete well. I was just referring to that fact that putting an edge break on the chamber end would not effect the accuracy of the gun it would only effect the brass re use factor or potential case failure if they went to far with the break.

I guess you would need to reread post #65 and #71 you are contradicting yourself I never said its more accurate unless more pressure is needed which in br generally is accepted. P.S. I looked at a factory Remington barrel that was laying around today guess what no radius or chamfer must have slipped by...

 

[X-RingCustomGunsmithing]

Not sure what I am contradicting on. And I I also just looked at 3 factory barrels I have pulled that are here in my shop and they all 3 have about a .015 deep 45 degree chamfer at the edge of the chamber I can take pictures if you would like if you don't believe me. All I am saying is if your not creating an unsupported chamber by cutting it in front of the Web I don't see how your going to swell the brass into a small chamfer at the back. As you can see many others have done this and no ill effects to pressure and causing brass to swell into it.