If the lands and the groves all look the same ,I'm satisfied with my work.
Can you show any test data to support your assertion?I'd put very little faith in this report. Current testing does not agree.
What I can tell you is that in a match chamber. You only have a couple tenths around the bullet. Thats as far off center it can be from the bore (assuming the chamber is aligned with the bore). Myself and others I trust have tested our straightest ammo vs most crooked many times over the years. Usually thats something like less than .001" runout vs .005"-.006" runout or so. Still have never been able to shoot the difference. Its actually something I want to matter because we can improve it. We are using far more accurate rifles and ammunition tuned for the barrel. That article is talking about a relatively inaccurate rifle, with factory ammunition. Theres just too many variables. Its an interesting article, and someone took the time to put it the work. It could very well apply to a loose chamber and factory ammo, I don't know. I try to keep an open mind because enough people do seem concerned about runout. Maybe if the freebore diameter is really big like some chamberings it can allow the runout to show up more on target. But I still find it very hard to accept that the difference between .001" and .002" of bullet runout is worth .25 moa of accuracy like the chart shows in any rifle.Can you show any test data to support your assertion?
There two approaches to this. They depend of the taper in the body. On the occasion I have to use a drill bit instead of a caliber specific core drill I'll bore to different diameters. A case with plenty of taper I'll bore a short section to or just over shoulder diameter. In the case of a straighter case like a Creedmoor I bore to just under shoulder diameter for a some distance then a second shorter section to start the reamer at shoulder diameter. The reamer will go to the center of the trued hole unless forced off center.Per Mr. Wheeler----"You have to establish a hole in the barrel thats concentric to the bore before you finish ream. Theres multiple ways to do that."
I've had good results by drilling a little short of the shoulder and a little under shoulder diameter,
followed by taper reaming------with compound set to track the reamer body slope.
This has worked well because, IMO. as the taper boring advances, the reamer can be placed into the hole far enough for the pilot to engage the targeted throat. At this point the reamer is held concentric at both ends. With a little more reamer pushing, some like to finish without the pilot, some like a smaller pilot and some like to keep it as is.
I'd like to get away from the taper boring and go to "straight in". Can anyone here describe
how this is done------with good results ?
This has been a good thread.
A. Weldy
There two approaches to this. They depend of the taper in the body. On the occasion I have to use a drill bit instead of a caliber specific core drill I'll bore to different diameters. A case with plenty of taper I'll bore a short section to or just over shoulder diameter. In the case of a straighter case like a Creedmoor I bore to just under shoulder diameter for a some distance then a second shorter section to start the reamer at shoulder diameter. The reamer will go to the center of the trued hole unless forced off center.
Best thing you can do just starting out is ream it 100% and dont worry about drilling and boring at firstSo, the key to make sure you get your chamber reamer to start beyond the part of the chamber that will be the throat?
Best thing you can do just starting out is ream it 100% and dont worry about drilling and boring at first
Tough on the most important cutting part of the reamer. But yes that's an option.Best thing you can do just starting out is ream it 100% and dont worry about drilling and boring at first
Tough on the most important cutting part of the reamer. But yes that's an option.
It is tough but starting out hes not going to do many and tooling is just part of the tuition the way i see it.Tough on the most important cutting part of the reamer. But yes that's an option.
Tough on the most important cutting part of the reamer. But yes that's an option.
Its an option but if the back end of the barrel is running out, which it will be a little with most setups, the reamers will start out with a little bit of runout. A rigid setup would likely clean that up by the end, but I wouldnt count on a floating setup to every time. Just my opinion.
Lets say you dial the throat and muzzle, the breach end will have a little runout. Maybe only .001" but it will have some. Same if you dial the throat and out in front of the throat. The straighter the bore the less it will have. You now start your reamer and pilot into bore that has runout. So the initial chamber will be running out the the center of the spindle and the dialed sections of the bore. If the setup is rigid enough, if may over come that by the time the chamber is finished. If its a floating setup its a coin toss.