I use a slotted jag with a patch on a short handle. Push patch inside case give it a twist against the inside of shoulder and pull out through the neck. Do about 10 cases and change patch. Works for me.
I assume this is the first fire form so don't worry about it, just fire form.I'm new to 30 BR and have a lot to learn.
I got the cases straightened out and they cycle fine, so, thanks to everyone on that.
I have the cases necked up, trimmed and neck turned. It's a lot more work than I expected, but they appear to be in good shape. I did lose some cases getting everything like I wanted, but I expected that would happen. I am now set to repeat what I've done and maybe lose no more cases. I've done 40, so I'm ready to go shoot.
My question now is, how to get the residual Imperial die wax out of the inside of the case. There isn't much, but between the expanding and turning of the necks there remains some wax. I thought Brake cleaner would do it easily, so I tried that. It doesn't get it totally clean.
They looked clean, but a little wipe with a Q Tip reveals some trace amounts.
So, how do most people get rid of the wax?
I'm sure it's easy, but only if you know how.
Yes, these are first time unfired fire forming cases.I assume this is the first fire form so don't worry about it, just fire form.
I like two fireforms before looking for a load. If you use a moderate load to fire form they don't quite get the sharp edges. If you use a full load it seems to create a problem with clickers. Rather than stand on the brass with one fire form, I've opted for the two fire forms. I also leave the necks about a half a thousand over what I want for the final neck thickness on the first fire form. I turn necks down to final thickness after the first fire form.Yes, these are first time unfired fire forming cases.
rotary tumbler or vibratorytumble in rice, removes all the wax as well as the carbon.
for me, tumbling for 4 hours removed probably 90-95% of carbon from inside the necks
rotary seems to work better for me. much less sensitive to getting the right media vs brass combination for effective cleaning.rotary tumbler or vibratory
Hornady One shot when necking up. Pro Long, Motorkote, Sinclair or PMA neck turning lube when turning necks on my lathe.
I just use it for turning necks. It comes of easily with GunScrubber dribbled on a QTip and then swabbed out.MotoKote works really well when working brass, but takes a crapload of soap to get it suspended when wet tumbling.
To the OP, I'd vote for some light solvent (alcohol, acetone, MEK, carb cleaner, etc.) on a cotton bore mop. Or dry tumble with a bit of car polish.
50 replies on how to remove wax from a case neck.I'm new to 30 BR and have a lot to learn.
I got the cases straightened out and they cycle fine, so, thanks to everyone on that.
I have the cases necked up, trimmed and neck turned. It's a lot more work than I expected, but they appear to be in good shape. I did lose some cases getting everything like I wanted, but I expected that would happen. I am now set to repeat what I've done and maybe lose no more cases. I've done 40, so I'm ready to go shoot.
My question now is, how to get the residual Imperial die wax out of the inside of the case. There isn't much, but between the expanding and turning of the necks there remains some wax. I thought Brake cleaner would do it easily, so I tried that. It doesn't get it totally clean.
They looked clean, but a little wipe with a Q Tip reveals some trace amounts.
So, how do most people get rid of the wax?
I'm sure it's easy, but only if you know how.
It confirms that there is more than one way to skin a cat.50
50 replies on how to remove wax from a case neck.
It repeats over and over again. Nothing new. Cannot wait for someone to put up a new post on the same subject.It confirms that there is more than one way to skin a cat.
There is some repeating, but that only means more than one person uses a certain technique. However, there are numerous suggestions that are different, so there may be many different responses.It repeats over and over again. Nothing new. Cannot wait for someone to put up a new post on the same subject.
here you go,There is some repeating, but that only means more than one person uses a certain technique. However, there are numerous suggestions that are different, so there may be many different responses.
I appreciate the many different responses with different opinions. I wish everyone had the same response then it would be easy to decide how to remove the wax. I do have several options to try and see what works for me now.
I have been on the internet for decades. For all of those decades, there has been a desire by many to solve non existent problems,It repeats over and over again. Nothing new. Cannot wait for someone to put up a new post on the same subject.
I don't know if you are saying this (Wax removal) is a non-existent problem, and maybe in some sense it is, but if we don't know, we don't know. I don't subscribe to the idea of making mistakes is how we learn. I really prefer to learn from other peoples mistakes if I can. I still make plenty on my own which leads me to asking before I do it.I have been on the internet for decades. For all of those decades, there has been a desire by many to solve non existent problems,
But you do have to remember that this is a World Wide Forum. Many of us have been involved with firearms and extreme accuracy shooting for longer than many of our fellow members have been alive. What seems like a very simple procedure to us might be perplexing to them.
^^^^^^^^After reading these suggestions and ideas, I have started to think it probably doesn't really make any difference whether the major amounts of wax is totally removed.
The reason I say this, is because these are new pieces of brass and for the most part I'm not going to accomplish much tuning with it being their first firing and fire forming. This is a new barrel and it just needs some bullets sent down it to break it in. Most of the powder will still ignite and the wax isn't going to hurt anything as it will just blow out of the case. It's all just a kind of down and dirty process at best.
However, I appreciate all of the suggestions for when it does matter and has given me ideas to think on..
