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How to remove sizing wax

I have two suggestions:

1) electric motor degreaser in a spray can. It is Non Flamable. Just use it in a well ventilated place.

2) ultrasonic cleaner. 'nuff said.
 
If you mandrel, do the mandrel, trim, and chamfer after wet tumbling. Use a coated mandrel that doesn't require lube and or graphite.
yes. I'm still afraid that the mandrel might not be enough to repair it, especially if neck tension is really low. or if the case has not expanded enough then no trimming is possible.
but I can totally see how it can work for folks.
 
yes. I'm still afraid that the mandrel might not be enough to repair it, especially if neck tension is really low. or if the case has not expanded enough then no trimming is possible.
but I can totally see how it can work for folks.
I should mention I have never used pins.
 
Vibrating cleaner with corn cob meal. Likes been said then you gotta clean out the flash holes. Doug
No flash hole plugging if you use lizard ‘sand’ in the tumbler. I buy Zilla brand in 25lb bags. Lasts a long time. I run the sized brass for an hour or so. I then put them in a beach towel and shake them back and forth for a minute or so. Done. I size about 250+ cases in a run and this has proven the most time effective method that provides great results on target. I did learn about Zilla crushed walnut on this site and have not looked back since.
 
I have taken an old cotton sock and put it on my hand and cleaned Imperial wax off.
When I do high volume like my prairie dog ammo I use spray lube and tumble.
Nothing special just normal procedure.
You just gave me an idea. Thanks. If it works I will report back.
 
I have taken an old cotton sock and put it on my hand and cleaned Imperial wax off.
When I do high volume like my prairie dog ammo I use spray lube and tumble.
Nothing special just normal procedure.
I do this exact same thing. I was just not sure if it was leaving some wax residue. I guess I could use a little alcohol too
 
I tumble after sizing, but I leave the spent primers in so I don't have to worry about media in the flash hole.
 
I save the sleeves of old brushed cotton shirts. You tie a knot in the shoulder end or better still get your wife to sew it closed. Chuck a batch of brass in, and slosh some mineral turps or similar solvent on the bottom end of the bag. Tumble it round for about ten secs then invert the bag and tumble it round again to wipe off the solvent on the dry end.

Works great and no mucking round with tumblers.
 
since I use the old "Unique" case lube I don't know if it is any different than the Imperial, but I just wipe off the cases with a paper towel or rag with acetone on it. Curiosity makes me ask if anyone knows if it is the same as "mink oil" waterproofing for boots, sort of smells and feels the same although I have never tried the mink oil on cases.
 
since I use the old "Unique" case lube I don't know if it is any different than the Imperial, but I just wipe off the cases with a paper towel or rag with acetone on it. Curiosity makes me ask if anyone knows if it is the same as "mink oil" waterproofing for boots, sort of smells and feels the same although I have never tried the mink oil on cases.
Mink oil does just fine. I've used it quite a bit to resize, and it has some advantages. I apply it with my fingers and it goes on thinner than most lubes, making the removal easier/faster. It's what I use for .22 K-Hornet, .20 Practical, .223 Rem. and .357 Sig. I haven't used it on the larger cases yet, but I will one of these days and see how it does. It seems to me that sizing a .300 WSM or a 7-6.5 PRC case is a bit more demanding of a case lube, but it may work out just fine.

For the record, mink oil and Hornady Unique are not the same thing.
 

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