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Full Sizing - Lube

Has anyone had a powder contamination problem after turning necks using Imperial wax?
Yes because it didn’t come out in my last corncob cleaning and collected a bunch of corncob material inside the case.

Because of that for my 6br, 6x47, 260 and 308 cases i used redding grafite for the necks and roll the body on a rcbs lube pad.

For 223 and 30-06 i just use dillon spray lube. I stand all the cases up and spray inside the necks. Then use my hands to spread the over spray on the outside of the cases. If they are overly wet i use a paper towel to blot some off.

David
 
Has anyone had a powder contamination problem after turning necks using Imperial wax?

Yes, just once, but enough to cause me to change my process. Tumbling the cases after neck turning was not good enough and enough lube remained to cause a few FTF's. Removed the projectiles from the FTF's and found powder clumped and sticking inside the case. Whenever I use Imperial Wax I now wash the brass in hot soapy water using a nylon brush on the inside before allowing to air dry.
 
I'm surprised no one has mentioned Lee Resizing Lube. Water soluble and a tiny amount goes a long way. I coat my fingers with a dab and roll the case. I can get about a dozen cases for a pea size dab of lube and it takes me maybe 5 minutes to coat 50 cases. Wipes right off. Dunno if it cleans carbon like Ballistol does, but then again, I don't need it to since my cases are cleaned by that point anyhow.

Lee user here also. I've got 2 cans of the original Imperial one new and one started. I prefer the Lee and always use a Q-Tip with it on the inside of necks, same with the Imperial. I do about 6 cases at a time and resize them while the wax is still wet. The press handle pulls noticeably easier with the Lee especially when case forming, plus I've never stuck or dented a case. If I've got a tub of a thousand 223 headed for the Dillon I lay them in rows on a old cookie sheet and mist them with Dillon spray lube at an angle so I can get a little in the necks them roll them around to spread the lube. For severe case forming 50/50 anhydrous lanolin and vaseline melted in a double boiler works pretty good. Just a little goes a long way, use it like Imperial just wiping your finger across it. My wife inspects and wipes most of the rounds I load, shes got a good eye for inspection which includes looking at seated primers. Don't get hung up on one lube or use something just because its easy. Let your press handle tell you what works. Case galling and brass build up in the die necks is lack of lube. Carbon washing on the necks going into your dies promotes galling sooner or latter.
 
What are you guys using to lube your cases for full length resizing. I'm especially interested in the neck area since I've been experiencing some galling in the necks of my cases (308). I follow all the standard procedure of brass prep. and routinely clean my dies so when this started happening I was totally puzzled.

The Rep at RCBS told me that this is caused by brass particles embedding into the die over time which is what I suspected but completely puzzled why it happened since I'm very careful preping, cleaning and lubing my cases. He said adquately lubing the necks will prevent this which I thought I was doing but apparently not good enough. :(

I've been using Hornady One Shot for years and never had any problems until recently.

The Rep at RCBS told me to send the die to them and they'll either refurbish the die or replace it. When I told him that the die is over 20 years old he merely said, so what - Wow - that's customer service in the extreme - :)

I've been reloading since 1970 but apparently there are some things I still need to learn. :( This "old dog" is willing to lean new tricks. ;) Any advice you guys can offer would be appreciated. Thanks.

Not sure what your galling looks like. A year ago I had a lot of scratches going down the necks. It was caused by not chamfering the neck o.d. enough. Little high pieces of brass broke free and were pushed down the neck creating scratches. Also had brass streaks tightly adhering to the die surface. I had to polish the die with 600 grit sandpaper on a wood dowel. Don't try to polish all of the brass out of the die just knock down the high spots. I have used all kinds of oils for case lube they all seem to work. The last few years I have used a light synthetic oil I got from work and a petroleum based hydaulic fluid from Auto Zone. I was worried that sulfur in the hydaulic fluid would stain the cases. It didn't. When you clean your dies look inside with a flash lite for anything that shouldn't be there.
 
Dillon spray lube is lanoline based if i remember correctly. I make my own with liquid lanolin or pure lanoline and 90/100 alcool.. Heet's supposed to works good too but i never tried myself. You can make almost a lifetime's supply for real cheap. I can provide the ratio lanoline/alcool if you want.
 
I have used Hornady one shot for yrs w/o a problem.
I recently started annealing on every reloading cycle.
This is when the problem began, w/the streaks on the
outside of the neck. You could feel them.
I called Redding, they suggested sending my dies and
all bushings in for a cleaning, a free service. I was told
the softened brass and inadequate case lube w/causing
brass to adhere to the bushing causing the problems.
I have just received the dies and havent loaded any to
see if the problem is solved. Just something to consider.
LDS
 
Last edited:
I use Mobile 1 Synthetic Engine Oil. After turning, I run a QTip along the inside of the neck to remove any residual oil.

Ok, thanks guys. Apologies to the O.P. for drifting the thread off topic.

I generally use rcbs case lube on the body and dip the necks in powdered grafite for normal sizing.
Imperial wax only for heavier sizing, forming, necking up/down, etc...
On one occasion I did have any issue with the galled necks useing the graphite. It was the first sizing after anealling. By the next firing/ sizing operation things were back to normal. It seems I recall cleaning the die (scotch bright).
 
Dillon spray lube is lanoline based if i remember correctly. I make my own with liquid lanolin or pure lanoline and 90/100 alcool.. Heet's supposed to works good too but i never tried myself. You can make almost a lifetime's supply for real cheap. I can provide the ratio lanoline/alcool if you want.
What is the ratio of lanolin to alcohol?

Thanks.
 
I mix mine at 10 parts alcohol to 1 part lanolin.
It is very important that you use 95+% alcohol.
I switched to this years ago and have never looked back.
How do you apply it to the cases, just put it on the RCBS case lube pad and roll the cases?
 
That says it all, John
I had a small tub of it and used it this weekend and merely wiped it off with a Scotts blue shop towel from the cases. I've heard some people say they tumble it off but that seemed like a lot of extra work for 50 cases.

How do YOU remove the sizing wax?

You know when I think of the old school Lee hand reloading kit where you have to use a hammer to hammer the case into the die and so forth and probably didn't clean the case or the primer pocket, reloading really has come a long way.
 

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