Neck lubing ?

[Straightshooter1]

I have never checked runout. But Redding has said sizing a fired case neck down more then .008" at a time can cause runout.

They're kinda right, but it depends . . .

For example, for my .308 the neck of the fired case measures .343 and the standard Forster FL sizing die takes the neck down to .328 (using it without the expander ball). Both the .343 neck and the .328 has measurements that are about something at or less than .0005 (as best that can be measured with a caliper). When I run an expander mandrel in to get to get a neck of .334, I often get .002 runout induced. But when a FL sizing die is used that only takes the neck down to .333 instead of the .328 and then run that same expander mandrel, I don't get any change in the neck's runout. So, apparently, the more one works the neck, the more likely one is going to induce some kind of additional runout (and I suppose there are other ways to address this, like a custom sized chamber that doesn't expand the neck so much).

 

[Martin52]

Topwater - as you're not neck turning, consider resizing first with a bushing die (without the bushing) then size the neck with a lee Collet die. Do a search here and you'll find plenty of information on this.

 

[PopCharlie]

I spent a year and $$$ chasing runout issues. I have moved the problem from the press to resizing dies, to the seating die and finally resolved. Here is what worked for me:
1. Replace the steal clip that secures the shell holder to the ram with an appropriate sized o-ring. This allows the shell holder to move a little more.
2. Place a flat washer on top of the shell holder. With your sizing die loose, run the ram all the way up till the washer contacts the bottom of your die. Notice the die move. This takes the slop out of the threads. Use the ram to keep some pressure on the die. Hold the die in place and tighten the lock ring on your die. Do not tighten the decapping assembly, let it float.
3. I switched to using F/L non-bushing sizing dies. They make the straightest brass. Use an expander ball to set your neck tension. A good die will straighten your brass. Whidden make a real nice die that does not over-size the case. They also sell expander ball sets. Forster makes a great die also. Expander balls are available too.
4. Set up your seating die with the washer as above. I like the Forster Bench Rest seater. The one without the micrometer top. The one piece stem can be aligned and locked in place. It seats bullets consistently very straight. I have used Redding Competition seater and the Whidden micrometer top seater. Both work well as long as you have a seating stem for each bullet you shoot. Both Whidden and Redding will make stems for you.
5. Start with good brass. Anneal after each firing. Lapua or Peterson are both high quality. Get a tool to measure neck wall thickness variations. Redding makes a good one. A concentricity gauge is also a must. I have seen necks that have very low runout (less than .0005), but have .002 or more variance in thickness. So, be prepared to turn necks. I turn necks once they have a neck wall thickness variation of more than .001.
These things worked for me. You may find other solutions that work better. I'm always trying to improve. So, if you find something, please share.
Thanks
I hope this helps.

 

[bozo699]

I spent a year and $$$ chasing runout issues. I have moved the problem from the press to resizing dies, to the seating die and finally resolved. Here is what worked for me:
1. Replace the steal clip that secures the shell holder to the ram with an appropriate sized o-ring. This allows the shell holder to move a little more.
2. Place a flat washer on top of the shell holder. With your sizing die loose, run the ram all the way up till the washer contacts the bottom of your die. Notice the die move. This takes the slop out of the threads. Use the ram to keep some pressure on the die. Hold the die in place and tighten the lock ring on your die. Do not tighten the decapping assembly, let it float.
3. I switched to using F/L non-bushing sizing dies. They make the straightest brass. Use an expander ball to set your neck tension. A good die will straighten your brass. Whidden make a real nice die that does not over-size the case. They also sell expander ball sets. Forster makes a great die also. Expander balls are available too.
4. Set up your seating die with the washer as above. I like the Forster Bench Rest seater. The one without the micrometer top. The one piece stem can be aligned and locked in place. It seats bullets consistently very straight. I have used Redding Competition seater and the Whidden micrometer top seater. Both work well as long as you have a seating stem for each bullet you shoot. Both Whidden and Redding will make stems for you.
5. Start with good brass. Anneal after each firing. Lapua or Peterson are both high quality. Get a tool to measure neck wall thickness variations. Redding makes a good one. A concentricity gauge is also a must. I have seen necks that have very low runout (less than .0005), but have .002 or more variance in thickness. So, be prepared to turn necks. I turn necks once they have a neck wall thickness variation of more than .001.
These things worked for me. You may find other solutions that work better. I'm always trying to improve. So, if you find something, please share.
Thanks
I hope this helps.

Talked with Boyd Allen just the other night on the phone, I have a Redding bushing die giving me concentricity issues and he gave me the tip of using a oring to hold shell holder and now see your doing it as well I plan on giving that a try this weekend.
Nice write up Pop, thank you for sharing
Wayne

 

[PopCharlie]

Talked with Boyd Allen just the other night on the phone, I have a Redding bushing die giving me concentricity issues and he gave me the tip of using a oring to hold shell holder and now see your doing it as well I plan on giving that a try this weekend.
Nice write up Pop, thank you for sharing
Wayne

My pleasure.

 

[PopCharlie]

Check out this article by Glen Zediker:
https://www.ssusa.org/articles/2019/6/19/4-easy-mods-to-improve-reloading-die-performance/

 

[338 dude]

Tonight I browsed my Redding catalog. I see that they make a carbide expander button kit. According to their information, this carbide button is “free floating”. Could this possibly help my situation? I wonder if I would turn all the necks after sizing with this carbide upgrade, if that might help by eliminating a variance in neck thickness. I wouldn’t feel comfortable trying to hone the necks in my dies.

I know it’s another die to add but I prefer a mandrel over the expander button

 

[bozo699]

Check out this article by Glen Zediker:
https://www.ssusa.org/articles/2019/6/19/4-easy-mods-to-improve-reloading-die-performance/

when I first started in precision shooting/loading a friend told me I needed this book and Glen Zediker was the author “Handloading for competition “
It was a good read for a new competitor
Wayne