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Does anyone shoot ELR with a 284?

I'm still going to start with my plan to develop a H4831sc load and only switch powders if accuracy is poor or I need more velocity to reach a mile.

I've been looking for Savage Axis Bolt handles.

It seems like Glades is the only place that makes them with the primary extraction half sleeve thing.

They also make a fluted and DLC coated bolt sleeve.

I'm thinking of buying one mostly for eye candy.

I'll have my fingers crossed because they don't have the greatest reputation for delivering what you actually ordered. I hope I get them on a good day.

I ordered one of the little thrust bearing type bolt lift kits this morning. With that, a longer bolt handle, DLC on the bolt and maybe Hobo oil for good measure, hopefully I can get a nice light bolt lift. I think I understand a little about how SSS does a timing job, hopefully I can figure out the rest and make my Axis really slick.
 
I made a stupid mistake.

I was thinking about the internal adjustment required for long shots and the 40 Mils in the Optika 6 5-30x56 then converted that to roughly 140 MOA, 70 up, 70 down and then realized I bought a 0 MOA Leupold Backcountry one piece base.

I knew I wanted 20 MOA, how did I screw that up?

A new base will be ordered soon.

At least I didn't cut it for the Nucleus recoil lug or bed it before I figured that out.
 
Looking on JBM, it says 2,000 yards is -92 MOA and with a 20 MOA base, I should be able to dial in around 90 so I'm close and can use the reticle to get there.

That's pretty good because that's the first time I thought about dialing for a 2,000 yard shot.

If Leupold made a 30 MOA base it would be even better and 40 MOA would be about ideal but it is a ~budget gun.
 
Looking on JBM, it says 2,000 yards is -92 MOA and with a 20 MOA base, I should be able to dial in around 90 so I'm close and can use the reticle to get there.

If Leupold made a 30 MOA base it would be even better and 40 MOA would be about ideal but it is a ~budget gun.

Look up Ken Farrell bases, if he makes one for your action, he has a bunch of different MOA bases.

Burris XTR Signature Rings can get you up to 40 MOA more elevation as well.

-Rick
 
I was looking and EGW makes a 40 MOA base for $60 but it's 6061 and special order.

20 MOA is enough, I just have to use the reticle which is changed now (Meopta cancelled the Dichro MRAD reticle).

I already have a nice set of ARC M10 rings that I intend to use unless they are too low.

The goal is a mile and I think I should be able to dial that. If 2,000 yards is difficult because I'm running out of travel or reticle, I'll deal with it.
 
I was looking and EGW makes a 40 MOA base for $60 but it's 6061 and special order.

20 MOA is enough, I just have to use the reticle which is changed now (Meopta cancelled the Dichro MRAD reticle).

I already have a nice set of ARC M10 rings that I intend to use unless they are too low.

The goal is a mile and I think I should be able to dial that. If 2,000 yards is difficult because I'm running out of travel or reticle, I'll deal with it.
There's a world of difference between a mile and 2000 yards. You will find that out when you actually shoot both. 240 yards is a number that is incredibly small in terms of range but added to 1760, it may as well be another mile. The 240 extra yards with a 284 and 180s will roughly be another 20+ moa.
 
Look up Ken Farrell bases, if he makes one for your action, he has a bunch of different MOA bases.

Burris XTR Signature Rings can get you up to 40 MOA more elevation as well.

-Rick

+1 for the Ken Farrell base. I had on one on my Savage 12 308 FTR. Probably the best underrated base and rings around. More moa the better on this one.
Good luck with your venture to 2000 yards with the 284.
Jason
 
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+1 for the Ken Farrell base. I had on one on my Savage 12 308 FTR. Probably the best underrated base and rings around. More moa the better on this one.
Good luck with your venture to 2000 yards with the 284.
Jason
Gosh I certainly don't consider Farrel bases and rings under-rated. I love Farrel rings. His bases are pretty much in line with many other top name picatinny bases. I get your point tho. Too notch equipment.
 
4D68F739-AC89-44F6-AB3E-B09D08DFCEA5.jpeg 14144AA9-0679-44FF-847F-170B3E1CC2F7.jpeg I always understood it to be better to keep the scope closer to optical center vs. nearing max. elevation which is why I went with a combination of rings & base
(60 MOA) to get to the distance I was shooting at. Only had to dial in about 12 more on the scope.

Here’s about 20 shots taken at 1800 w/ my .284 Shehane. 180 Hybrids & 4831SC @ ~2860 fps. Mild conditions over a bit of a canyon, roughly 3’ x 5’ plate.
 
I think I have decided to cancel my Optika 6 order and wait to see if they change their mind on offering the Dichro MRAD reticle.

For now I'll use a 4.5-18x44 Bushnell LRTSi to do short range load development and 1,000 yard shooting and I'll upgrade once I start to stretch it out.
 
I got my order from Glades Armory.

I had heard bad things about delivery time and communication but they delivered for me. Communication wasn't so hot. I asked about stock on hand, never got a reply, decided to order any way and it seems to have worked out.

I haven't found much info about their Savage Axis bolt sleeve but I decided to give it a shot and try to dress up my rifle. It's spiral fluted and DLC coated, fancy.

I have heard good reviews of their Axis bolt handle which does have the primary extraction piece.

I also got my bolt lift kit.

Once I get my barrel, I'll face the action and then sit down and try to figure out how to time it and get the bolt lift nice and smooth.
 
I installed the parts from Glade. The Bolt handle seems fine. The sleeve might be an issue. Installation wasn't too hard but the baffle piece behind the bolt has a lot of drag now. I think the sleeve is compressing the wave washer a bit too much.

I can probably solve that by buying a new baffle and using a lathe to reduce the height.

Otherwise it seems ok but I haven't tested it for function.
 
I was looking at my MDT LSS that I set on a desk and moved around a few times and a few edges that the chassis was resting on are now missing their FDE cerakoat.

Raw aluminum is showing through.

I have to say that is pretty bad for handling that is probably a lot less harsh than the average range trip.

Oh well, I was thinking about trying a Krylon camo job. Now I have my excuse.
 
I was looking at my MDT LSS that I set on a desk and moved around a few times and a few edges that the chassis was resting on are now missing their FDE cerakoat.

Raw aluminum is showing through.

I have to say that is pretty bad for handling that is probably a lot less harsh than the average range trip.

Oh well, I was thinking about trying a Krylon camo job. Now I have my excuse.
Good to know. Don't really sound that great when the stock hasn't even been afield. What color did you get the stock finished in ?
 
One other thing I've been meaning to do is measure the back of the bolt head to the bolt sleeve with the bolt baffle removed.

With the Savage bolt sleeve, the number is 0.397" and with the Glades bolt sleeve, it's 0.385" so I need an 0.011" thinner bolt baffle.

Thinking about it, I should have measured a few more dimensions. Next time...
 
The stock I got from ICD is black anodized but I'm going to cover the adjustable comb with moleskin that is fairly close to the FDE.

I'll probably limit the camo job to the chassis, action and barrel because paint on the stock could get messy if I need to adjust anything.
 

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