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Chamber flush system build log.

Are the flutes extended under the bushing all the way to the front? It is simple to do that with a dremel cutoff wheel if they are not.
 
Are the flutes extended under the bushing all the way to the front? It is simple to do that with a dremel cutoff wheel if they are not.

Some are, like a JGS or Manson ordered for oil flush. Larger JGS even has a notched bushing. Flow still just isn't blasting out. I use a more viscous oil based cutting oil and if your using water based coolant, you'll have lot lower viscosity. Doesn't matter either way, 30 second operation to retract the reamer and flush it.
 
I have posted this picture before on this thread, but it is pages and pages back. This simple two valve setup works well with a carbonator pump.

At work we have a 125 PSI 1.5 HP 3-phase pump. I have it turned down to 80 PSI. It has enough flow to allow two lathes to use the flush at the same time.

The valve on the left controls flow to the barrel. The valve on the right controls recirculating back to the pump.

Usually, the left valve stays fully open and is always open when the pump is started.

B9098EA0-45F3-4CF6-8C7C-9D193CEA17B7.jpeg
 
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If i was designing a system it would use a back pressure regulator on a recirc like a fuel injection system and plumb in a foot pedal for air with some check valves. No need to do a reach around and fumble with valves if you dont have to. Just the engineer in me i guess
 

That seems smart, but expensive.


What about a small 3 phase motor on a VFD that monitors line pressure and varies the pump to keep pressure constant?
 
What about a small 3 phase motor on a VFD that monitors line pressure and varies the pump to keep pressure constant?

So every time your reamer is plugging the flow path and pressure increases, your VFD ramps down to 0 HZ? Or you going to a reverse output PID and ramp your VFD up on increasing pressure? I hope your just being silly.
 
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So every time your reamer is plugging the flow path and pressure increases, your VFD ramps down to 0 HZ? Or you going to a reverse output PID and ramp your VFD up on increasing pressure? I hope your just being silly.

Not being silly... just thinking through it. Depends what kind of sensors I could find. Now sure if a flow/pressure sensor is available that would work.
 

That seems smart, but expensive.


What about a small 3 phase motor on a VFD that monitors line pressure and varies the pump to keep pressure constant?

A much simpler way is to put a pressure regulator in the return line. That way the fluid always recirculates, the pump always pumps, and the pressure is constant through the barrel.

I don't know what that would have over the way I have my work setup now, since fluid always recirculates, the pump always pumps, and the volume through the barrel is easily controlled--all that with two ball valves.
 
I used an aeromotive fuel bypass regulator but i had it on the shelf during my boat racing days. Theres no need for any ball valves with a regulator in your bypass just steady pressure everytime. Side fumbling was eliminated. Its just all according to what your time is worth
 
I got a 1/3 hp Pro Con pump a couple months ago, someday I will have time to build the system. I keep putting it off and doing other more important things like fishing.
 
After constantly seeing this thread active, it gave me motivation to refine my system. I simply added a few things such as a foot petal, not sure why I went so long before adding one, :) Added a needle valve bypass and an air inlet valve. The air will be nice! Simple and will get the job done! Also cleaned 5 years of fine sediment out of return side of my tank :)1679968182-picsay.jpg
 
I used an aeromotive fuel bypass regulator but i had it on the shelf during my boat racing days. Theres no need for any ball valves with a regulator in your bypass just steady pressure everytime. Side fumbling was eliminated. Its just all according to what your time is worth

Although a bypass regulator is a good way, there are still a lot of reasons to have ball valves.

I like to start the pump with only return flow, then open the supply side ball valve slowly to verify no leaks and to let the bubbles that cause spurting to pass through at a low flow level.

Having a regulator means the pressure stays the same and some reamers need more pressure than others.

I start cutting a chamber at lower flow and then increase as the reamer gets deeper. I also reduce the flow when withdrawing the reamer. My simple two ball-valve setup does all that.

BTW, the worst way is to have a non-bypass pressure regulator on the line feeding fluid to the barrel. With this configuration, when the pressure starts increasing as the reamer goes deeper, the regulator will cut flow when we really need more flow.
 
Keep the ideas coming, everyone has their own end result in mind and the abundance of options play into an individuals design. I tried to balance performance with simplicity and cost. The low pressure PVC and 3 gallon pail system I put together checks all of my boxes and delivers the results I want. Thank you all for your ideas and to each his own on the system of your design.
 
It's not pretty but it works amazing! I have the Procon powered by a 1/3HP motor. The bypass valve is great and easy to adjust. Wish I had gone this route the fist time but, hey, as they say, third time's the charm. I think I will be looking at some different plumbing to make it more compact.

IMG_8230.jpeg

Thank you all for the help,
Hank
 
For those that have one up and running, how much oil/coolant or whatever product you’re using, what is the capacity of your system? 1 gallon, 5 gallon, 10 gallon?
 

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