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Centerfire Barrel Tuners/ Muzzle Devices

I gave Harrell's a call, $90 shipped for the tuner brake.

It was hard to tell by the picture how the ring stayed in place. There are two rings and they act as a jam nut, so when you get it where you want it you can lock it down and there is no way of accidentally moving it. The body is laser engraved as well as the ring. He said they are working on getting it on their web site, but they are in stock. They make a small one too, for hunting rifles.
 
It is hard to see the numbers in my photo but they are there for reference. You are correct the 2 nuts jam together and the design seems plenty of secure. So I guess if a guy wanted a brake and tuner it might just be the ticket. I can report back when I shoot my BRX some more.
 
It might not be a bad idea for big hammer hunting rifles like ultra mags, so you don't have to burn up the barrel or kill your arm trying to get them to shoot. I have a 300 RUM I might try it on.
 
tinman said:
It might not be a bad idea for big hammer hunting rifles like ultra mags, so you don't have to burn up the barrel or kill your arm trying to get them to shoot. I have a 300 RUM I might try it on.
That's what I was thinking
 
Been doing some experimenting with my 308 FTR and a simple collar. Since my barrel is not threaded, I opted for this route. Took a stethoscope and "rung the barrrel". About 3" back from the muzzle was a dead spot, so I installed the collar halfway from the deadspot to the muzzle. I was amazed at what it did with just a few tries. Used a caliper and measured from the muzzle once it was set.

Yesterday I shot the smallest group ever with this gun, a five shot group in the low threes. I could make the group shape go from flat horizontal to more vertical. I set it for a slightly round group with as little vertical as possible. I did notice I could make it a very wide flat group with no wind showing on my homemade flags......

Going to shoot a few more as weather permits to make sure it was not a fluke..

My next barrel will be threaded for a tuner.
 
broncman said:
Been doing some experimenting with my 308 FTR and a simple collar. Since my barrel is not threaded, I opted for this route. Took a stethoscope and "rung the barrrel". About 3" back from the muzzle was a dead spot, so I installed the collar halfway from the deadspot to the muzzle. I was amazed at what it did with just a few tries. Used a caliper and measured from the muzzle once it was set.

Yesterday I shot the smallest group ever with this gun, a five shot group in the low threes. I could make the group shape go from flat horizontal to more vertical. I set it for a slightly round group with as little vertical as possible. I did notice I could make it a very wide flat group with no wind showing on my homemade flags......

Going to shoot a few more as weather permits to make sure it was not a fluke..

My next barrel will be threaded for a tuner.

It is very impressive what a tuner can do to the groups and how little movement it takes to influence the group.
 
Broncman How did you secure the collars to your barrel and what were the general dimensions of the collars? Is the placement of the collars along the longitudinal axis of the barrel the key to changing the vibration? When you "rung the barrel" could you give some details on how you found the dead spot with the stethoscope? Mike
 
I do not think that it takes a stethoscope to find a dead spot. Try this. Loosely hold a metal dinner fork at the narrowest place above the tines, and using the edge of the widest part of the handle, lightly tap along a free floated barrel, starting at the muzzle, and moving slowly down the barrel in small increments. I think that you will be able to hear audible differences, and find your dead spot. A fork with a moderately thick handle but not one of the fancier ones with a cast handle, is what I used.
 
Finally got my new to me drop port viper back from Blair Clowdis
Buckys tuner installed. chambered in 220 beggs as well as a 6ppc barrel threaded for this tuner
 

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apakesha said:
Broncman How did you secure the collars to your barrel and what were the general dimensions of the collars? Is the placement of the collars along the longitudinal axis of the barrel the key to changing the vibration? When you "rung the barrel" could you give some details on how you found the dead spot with the stethoscope? Mike

I used an electronic stethoscope since I have one and very easy to hear changes with it. Anything you can use to hear the ring will work. As far as vibration goes, a dead spot is a node with no amplitude. Think of a sine wave as it crosses zero. If you were to brace it up there, it would have no effect since vibration at this spot has no amplitude...move to the area of max amplitude and you have the most damping effect. Then you have the weight that slows the rise of the barrel whip and allows the bullet to exit the barrel in a smaller amplitude of the vertical plane of movement. Some also suggest that the upward
movement will impart a slight amount of velocity to the bullet in a vertical direction...
The collar is just a simple steel collar from the hardware store!
 
The collar....Is it a slip fit? is it taped on in position? use o rings? use set screws? inquiring minds want to know. I know that a lot of caliber / barrel combinations have a specific length that works best for that combination. I can see that by adjusting the tuner (length?) after you have worked up your perfect load would work to tighten up your grouping.
I read somewhere on this forum that one member does not do any load development at all. He sticks with one load and lets the tuner do all of the adjusting.
Also, would putting the collar anywhere on the barrel and moving it forward or back have the same effect?
In Tony Boyers book, he says you can shorten a barrel a little at a time to find the sweet spot.
 
You can secure a collar with a set screw. I have one like that on my do fire rifle. The problem is going back to a specific point. The collar can be anywhere on the barrel, but some places will have a higher impact than others on harmonics.
 
Erik is correct it is a set screw. Pop the anvil out of a used primer and put the primer under the set screw to protect the barrel. I used the base of the caliper to measure where the collar is for replacement. The collar is a slip fit.

Working on a tight slip fit that is threaded, then will be loctited. That way I can make an adjustable tuner.

All I can say, is a tuner works! At least on my simple prefit Savage..


PS.... A tuner can not do anything to offset the effects of a high ES at long range! Get your load to a low ES first.
 
Steve Blair said:
I use a tuner by Erik Cortina on a 34" .300 WSM. I think it is working pretty well.
Hi, This is a very nice tuner. The pic doesn't give it justice.
Studied it at the worlds.. Raton, MN Thanks, John
 
Thanks for some of the details. I was thinking of buying one but now I am sure I can make one. I will make one for my 30br. I'll let you know how it works. Thanks guys Mike

John, Where have you been? I haven't seen you on here for a while. Say hi to Allison. Mike
 
Mike,
We have become "good weather" shooters. (note: good not fair). I am buying one of Eric's tuners. They are the cleanest looking of the lot. Whish Hoehn made one for center fire as I know I know how to get it running
John
 
Just finished installing a tuner on Monte Milanuk's barrel. This is what it looks like on a barrel that is .900" at the muzzle.

The arrow on the barrel is a reference reference mark to keep track of the tuners adjustments. The mark is on the left side of the gun so that the shooter can simply move up and stretch his arm out and move tuner if he needs to.





 

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