Carbon remover

[andybrock]

I know it's been asked many times before but with new products constantly coming out I thought it's worth asking....what's your favourite carbon remover?

Thanks

 

[AckleymanII]

Good bronze bristle brush, throw them away often every 80-100 strokes.

 

[jimcasey01]

Bore Tech C4

 

[snakepit]

Bore Tech C4

 

[CatShooter]

Oversized bronze brush, brass cleaning rod, and 1/4" drill.

It works wonders.

 

[JRS]

Stay far, far away, from aluminum and BRASS cleaning rods. They attract abrasives as readily as a pile of dung attracts flies

 

[CatShooter]

Stay far, far away, from aluminum and BRASS cleaning rods. They attract abrasives as readily as a pile of dung attracts flies

So a clean brass rod sits on your bench, and you come back in the morning and it burried in abrasives??

You got a hell of a dirty work bench!!

They do not "Attract" abrasives. Aluminum makes it's own (Aluminum oxide), but brass is harmless, just wipe it with a cloth to insure it is clean...

... if brass "attracts" abrasives, how do you manage your cartridge cases and cleaning brushes??

 

[waldo1979]

Bore Tech C4

^^ +1 boretech products

Occasionally JP Bore Paste for heavy cleaning.

 

[Matt P]

I know it's been asked many times before but with new products constantly coming out I thought it's worth asking....what's your favourite carbon remover?

Thanks

Bore Tech C4

Have you checked with a Bore scope after cleaning ??Reason I ask is I have and the C4 is in my opinion useless, the only way I have found to remove carbon/powder fouling is JB or similar. A bronze bush will help with regular use but you will still need to use JB ever 300 or so rounds to keep on top of it.
Matt P

 

[boltman13]

Butches Bore Shine. Two to three patches thru bore, then nylon brush with liberal amount of Butches adding more as needed. Then a wet patch and 2 dry. You will still have some copper but powder is gone. I usually continue with Butches to get rid of the copper, but on heavy copper fouled bores such as my 300 WSM hunting rifle I may switch to Copper Killer.

 

[butchlambert]

I believe the older GM TEC is the best. Not available for the most part, but I put away quite a bit of it.

 

[lpreddick]

I suspect there are two kinds of "carbon", meaning end products of burning(sublimating) firearm propellent...good old gunpowder. First is the dry fluffy residue you can see on a dry, yes, dry patch. Wet a patch with plain water and you will get dirty patches. The almost unlimited number of " solvents" may speed the removal of this "carbon" . The next type is the baked on carbon, cooked by intense pressure and temperatures in the thousands of degrees. No liquid will get this out. A nylon brush does not much. A bronze brush with or without solvent, after multiple passes will scrape this stuff out. Sometimes in an incompletely cleaned barrel one can spend many long minutes before getting all the many layers of baked carbon out. Abrasives(,jb, iasso). will also scrape this carbon out, but since the patch comes out black even in a clean bore, knowing the end point can be problematic. Most casual shooters never get the baked on/in carbon out since they believe the majic of their "solvent".

 

[butchlambert]

I suspect there are two kinds of "carbon", meaning end products of burning(sublimating) firearm propellent...good old gunpowder. First is the dry fluffy residue you can see on a dry, yes, dry patch. Wet a patch with plain water and you will get dirty patches. The almost unlimited number of " solvents" may speed the removal of this "carbon" . The next type is the baked on carbon, cooked by intense pressure and temperatures in the thousands of degrees. No liquid will get this out. A nylon brush does not much. A bronze brush with or without solvent, after multiple passes will scrape this stuff out. Sometimes in an incompletely cleaned barrel one can spend many long minutes before getting all the many layers of baked carbon out. Abrasives(,jb, iasso). will also scrape this carbon out, but since the patch comes out black even in a clean bore, knowing the end point can be problematic. Most casual shooters never get the baked on/in carbon out since they believe the majic of their "solvent".

So, you're saying to leave it alone as we can't clean it? Or what are you really saying?

 

[jimcasey01]

I believe the older GM TEC is the best. Not available for the most part, but I put away quite a bit of it.

I am envious.

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

I still have never found a cleaner that works better on carbon than this old formula that can be mixed at home. The old GM TEC was the closest, though. Here's an article by the maker with some good info and the formula. With just a little searching, it's pretty easy to find how and why it's a very good all purpose gun cleaner. I do use a separate cleaner to deal with copper. Wipe Out, Patch Out and Boretech Eliminator are my preferred copper solvents.


http://www.handloads.com/articles/?id=9

 

[lpreddick]

Sorry if I implied not to remove the baked on carbon. My borescope made me a believer in the bronze brush. I must admit if one of my varmint slayers is hitting exactly where I tell it, I just clean the fluffy stuff every once in awhile...usually after a miss. If I'm working up loads in a new gun, I'll give the bronze brush a workout.

 

[hogpatrol]

Oversized bronze brush, brass cleaning rod, and 1/4" drill.

It works wonders.

+1 plus it's a whole lot quicker.

 

[M-61]

I believe the older GM TEC is the best. Not available for the most part, but I put away quite a bit of it.

I am envious.

I agree with the cleaning ability and the lack of availability. However I have heard that Mercury (as in outboards) offers a similar product as Gm TEC.
I. too, have enough of the GM in stock.

 

[butchlambert]

Mercury used to have Quick Silver I believe. Used to use it and it was good.

 

[fotohunt]

M-Pro 7 is my carbon remover of choice. I have seen many a stainless barrel, muzzle brake, and carbon ring cleaned out with it. I'm a believer.

-Darrell