Carbon remover

[snakepit]

Bore Tech C4

Have you checked with a Bore scope after cleaning ??Reason I ask is I have and the C4 is in my opinion useless, the only way I have found to remove carbon/powder fouling is JB or similar. A bronze bush will help with regular use but you will still need to use JB ever 300 or so rounds to keep on top of it.
Matt P

I usually check the barrel with my Hawkeye Borescope after cleaning with Bore Tech C4 and have found it to be excellent in removing the carbon/powder fouling. If my Hawkeye showed the C4 did not work I would not use it. My cleaning routine is to follow the cleaning instructions on the C4 bottle.

 

[vinconco]

Most shooters don't know they have baked on carbon and it is difficult to know it's there unless you have a bore scope. I found an easy way to determine if you have carbon build up which usually forms ahead of the chamber. Simply run a nylon brush up the bore and reverse it before it exits the barrel and draw it back toward the chamber. At the muzzle end the brush will feel smooth but as you enter the carbon areas you will feel the brush withdraw with roughness. Remember that the brush has to be reversed while it is in the barrel. This method really works and is a quick test to see if you have carbon issues.

 

[LC Tikka]

I spoke with the guys at MPro, as their product was taking time to remove copper. The reply was, as you fire one bullet after another, there is copper covered with carbon etc etc. They advised to alternate between copper and carbon solvent to get through the different fouling layers. Kind of makes sense, have not done enough shooting since to prove it.
LC

 

[JRS]

Z-MAX

 

[4xforfun]

Baked on hard carbon is a PHYSICS problem, not a CHEMISTRY problem. No other way around it. Brushes, abrasives and elbow grease.

 

[4xforfun]

Oversized bronze brush, brass cleaning rod, and 1/4" drill.

It works wonders.

What do you use for brushes. Mine come apart on me after about 2 seconds.

 

[CatShooter]

Oversized bronze brush, brass cleaning rod, and 1/4" drill.

It works wonders.

What do you use for brushes. Mine come apart on me after about 2 seconds.

I use standard brushes.

For a .224 centerfires, I use a 25 cal brush. For a .243 centerfires, I use a 27 cal brush.... etc.

I soak the plugged bore for a few hours (or over night). Then I run the brush into the throat, but NOT into the bore/rifling. I do it for one to two minutes.

Then I clean the barrel and chamber in the normal way.

 

[4xforfun]

On my older, fire cracked tubes i go into the bore some. My problem is, even though I am using new, proper sized brushes (30 cal in 30 cal tubes), the brush comes apart after only a couple of seconds. Just thinking a better quality brush would take the twisting without breaking.

 

[dkhunt14]

Oversized bronze brush, brass cleaning rod, and 1/4" drill.

It works wonders.

What do you use for brushes. Mine come apart on me after about 2 seconds.

I use standard brushes.

For a .224 centerfires, I use a 25 cal brush. For a .243 centerfires, I use a 27 cal brush.... etc.

I soak the plugged bore for a few hours (or over night). Then I run the brush into the throat, but NOT into the bore/rifling. I do it for one to two minutes.

Then I clean the barrel and chamber in the normal way.

I don't know what barrels or throats you have but my rifling is in the throat. It starts out like a shallow ramp and gets deeper as it goes toward muzzle. It starts not far in front of where the neck in the chamber ends. My guns are throated out for the heavier longer VLD type bullets. I would never put an abrasive in there and spin with a drill. I prefer to just maintain and keep it out. My bore scope confirms this. Matt

 

[deadidarren]

there are shooters over here using this and they have bore scopes and they say it works a treat

 

[CatShooter]

Oversized bronze brush, brass cleaning rod, and 1/4" drill.

It works wonders.

What do you use for brushes. Mine come apart on me after about 2 seconds.

I use standard brushes.

For a .224 centerfires, I use a 25 cal brush. For a .243 centerfires, I use a 27 cal brush.... etc.

I soak the plugged bore for a few hours (or over night). Then I run the brush into the throat, but NOT into the bore/rifling. I do it for one to two minutes.

Then I clean the barrel and chamber in the normal way.

I don't know what barrels or throats you have but my rifling is in the throat. It starts out like a shallow ramp and gets deeper as it goes toward muzzle. It starts not far in front of where the neck in the chamber ends. My guns are throated out for the heavier longer VLD type bullets. I would never put an abrasive in there and spin with a drill. I prefer to just maintain and keep it out. My bore scope confirms this. Matt

Unlike many who use abrasives (like JB and Iosso), I do not put an abrasive in my barrels.

I only use bronze brushes. The ash builds up in the end of the chamber and leade.

 

[searcher]

Butches Bore Shine for barrel and chamber, followed by JB on a patch wrapped around a nylon brush for the throat only- and powered by a drill for about 20 seconds at a slower speed. For those breaking brushes - I'd recommend using the type of NYLON brush that is soft when using the JB - basically the type that wouldn't work worth a darn if using to clean a bore, and not feed into the barrel more than 1/2" or so. The soft brushes will enable the patch to get the carbon ring area and transition into the throat. If bore is real bad, use the JB on the patched nylon brush - but not under power - just about 15 strokes and re-check. my borescope has been happy with this method.

 

[scpaul]

I haven't used it on firearms, but reading the opinions reminded me of a product called "Seafoam". You can find it in any desent auto parts store. I've used it for carbon in race engines, lawnmower engines, hopped up outboard motors. Everything that I've used it in has been just about spotless of carbon. Heads, exaust manifolds and headers. You can put it in the crankcase and clean the old oil sludge out, I do that a little at a time each time just a couple of hunderd miles before the oil change. I'm going to try it now that y'all have remided me of it. If it does half as well as it's done on everything else, it will be well worth it. Just a thought. Paul

 

[snakepit]

I haven't used it on firearms, but reading the opinions reminded me of a product called "Seafoam". You can find it in any desent auto parts store. I've used it for carbon in race engines, lawnmower engines, hopped up outboard motors. Everything that I've used it in has been just about spotless of carbon. Heads, exaust manifolds and headers. You can put it in the crankcase and clean the old oil sludge out, I do that a little at a time each time just a couple of hunderd miles before the oil change. I'm going to try it now that y'all have remided me of it. If it does half as well as it's done on everything else, it will be well worth it. Just a thought. Paul

Be sure to let us all know how it works out on firearms,

 

[JRS]

Oversized bronze brush, brass cleaning rod, and 1/4" drill.

It works wonders.

What do you use for brushes. Mine come apart on me after about 2 seconds.

I use standard brushes.

For a .224 centerfires, I use a 25 cal brush. For a .243 centerfires, I use a 27 cal brush.... etc.

I soak the plugged bore for a few hours (or over night). Then I run the brush into the throat, but NOT into the bore/rifling. I do it for one to two minutes.

Then I clean the barrel and chamber in the normal way.

I don't know what barrels or throats you have but my rifling is in the throat. It starts out like a shallow ramp and gets deeper as it goes toward muzzle. It starts not far in front of where the neck in the chamber ends. My guns are throated out for the heavier longer VLD type bullets. I would never put an abrasive in there and spin with a drill. I prefer to just maintain and keep it out. My bore scope confirms this. Matt

There was an ongoing conversation about spinning a brush in the barrel on BRC some time ago. Frank Green, of Bartelin barrels, and Dave Tooley were quite clear where they stood. 'You do that, and you're on your own. Don't call and tell me there is something wrong with the barrel".

 

[dkhunt14]

I believe you must maintain and keep carbon from building and you use some of these products it will loosen and clean most out. If you let it build and get hard you will need mechanical and hard work to remove it. Matt

 

[/VH]

4x,

About 2 or 3 years ago, I bought a couple hundred dollars worth of Dewey bronze brushes, in various calibers from Sinclair. I had 3 of them in 22 cal. pull apart from the ferrule, just pulling them back through a brand new Krieger 22-250 barrel. Apparently, they weren't crimped right. I never tried the other caibers, just called Sinclair and returned the whole lot. I re-ordered directly from Pro Shot and haven't had a problem with any of them.

 

[DennisH]

I haven't used it on firearms, but reading the opinions reminded me of a product called "Seafoam". You can find it in any desent auto parts store. I've used it for carbon in race engines, lawnmower engines, hopped up outboard motors. Everything that I've used it in has been just about spotless of carbon. Heads, exaust manifolds and headers. You can put it in the crankcase and clean the old oil sludge out, I do that a little at a time each time just a couple of hunderd miles before the oil change. I'm going to try it now that y'all have remided me of it. If it does half as well as it's done on everything else, it will be well worth it. Just a thought. Paul

Most vehicle manufactures make a flush for engines. It's not sold commercially, but you can buy it from most any car dealer. It will melt carbon. On a vehicle you mix the chemical with gas, maybe 75% gas, and 25% product, 16 oz's. I have used this myself on vehicles and it's unbelievable how it works.

Almost like the old GM Top Engine Cleaner, if now off the market, but most manufactures have a chemical that will do the job. Mercury has it's "power tune" product that's very good. The GM product was widely used as it came in a spray can.

YOU definitely have to wear eye protection and gloves when using he product. My Desert Eagle 44 is notorious for carbon buildup. This stuff follow by a ultrasonic cleaning leaves everything looking perfect.

Be careful when using any of these products, their is a reason their not sold at every retailer.

Dennis

 

[Rtheurer]

C-4 Followed up with borescope to confirm. Every 200 to 300 rounds it gets JB or Flits in the Throat area for (my term) thoat maintance. Very seldom do I need or use a brush except when the barrel is getting a little longer in the tooth and becomes a tad harder to clean.
With the bore scope I found that the throat area is the trouble spot and gets a lot more attention.

Might be some more or better or at least quicker products for copper. But I have to say that anything that I have to do outside because of the chemical smell is not for me. I would rather just give it a little more attention then inhale all those fumes. C-4 and the old Eliminator by Boretech works just fine for me. Everyone has there own way as you can see from 4 pages of do this don't do that.

JRS
I just got a sample pack of the Z Max. Have not tried it yet. What do you think?

Russ T

 

[JRS]

C-4 Followed up with borescope to confirm. Every 200 to 300 rounds it gets JB or Flits in the Throat area for (my term) thoat maintance. Very seldom do I need or use a brush except when the barrel is getting a little longer in the tooth and becomes a tad harder to clean.
With the bore scope I found that the throat area is the trouble spot and gets a lot more attention.

Might be some more or better or at least quicker products for copper. But I have to say that anything that I have to do outside because of the chemical smell is not for me. I would rather just give it a little more attention then inhale all those fumes. C-4 and the old Eliminator by Boretech works just fine for me. Everyone has there own way as you can see from 4 pages of do this don't do that.

JRS
I just got a sample pack of the Z Max. Have not tried it yet. What do you think?

Russ T

You won't regret your purchase Russ. We used it to remove the burned on built up carbon on the pistons on our 2 strokes every time we freshened the top end, which was quite often :-[ Swab it on the throat, let it penetrate for a bit, then use a bronze brush to loosen and remove the carbon. Strong stuff for sure, but, if you'll use precautions, as you should with any chemical, you'll be very satisfied