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Carbon removal test. Barrel Damage Test.

Is there any evidence that the carbon remaining after 'normal' cleaning vs not cleaned affects the accuracy?
 
Is there any evidence that the carbon remaining after 'normal' cleaning vs not cleaned affects the accuracy?

Are you asking about barrel or brass? A little confusion seems to have set upon this thread, which I have corrected in the first post. This was only done to find out which of the barrel cleaners I have work best for cleaning carbon. Instead of a barrel and rearendascope (barrel scope), I used brass. Easy to see and show the results.

I was REALLY wanting to use handgun brass. Wide open and easy to see as well as take a picture of. Unfortunately, I clean my brass to quick when I am done with it and didn't have a single dirty piece. Not even in the scrap pile.
 
excellent info, thanks for testing this. I read about using it on this forum and I have been soaking a nylon brush in CLR and using it in barrel cleaning for the last month or so. It seemed to be working well so thanks for verifying
 
excellent info, thanks for testing this. I read about using it on this forum and I have been soaking a nylon brush in CLR and using it in barrel cleaning for the last month or so. It seemed to be working well so thanks for verifying

I think I am going to plug the muzzle end of a barrel and fill it up. See what happens.
 
I tested CLR in my what I thought was a clean barrel , the white patch came out grayish brown . It was all removed by the second patch . To be safe I dry patched and washed anything that could have been left in the barrel by using Hoppes #9 then again dry patched . Atfer posting this some jumped all over me for using it . It does remove carbon , to be fair I have a SS barrel my bolt is steel and I noticed on the outer shoulder of the bolt face
( Rem.700 ) a discoloration of the steel . I'm guessing some CLR may have been left in the channel for the locking lugs . So with carbon steel barrels remove all traces of CLR . Don't saturated the patch when cleaning your barrel , try a few drops an see , it does remove carbon .
 
Thanks for this Post.
I had a shooting Pal ? lead me back to Old No.9 . I think it just doesn't cut it.
Montana and Shooter works better.
 
I tested CLR in my what I thought was a clean barrel , the white patch came out grayish brown . It was all removed by the second patch . To be safe I dry patched and washed anything that could have been left in the barrel by using Hoppes #9 then again dry patched . Atfer posting this some jumped all over me for using it . It does remove carbon , to be fair I have a SS barrel my bolt is steel and I noticed on the outer shoulder of the bolt face
( Rem.700 ) a discoloration of the steel . I'm guessing some CLR may have been left in the channel for the locking lugs . So with carbon steel barrels remove all traces of CLR . Don't saturated the patch when cleaning your barrel , try a few drops an see , it does remove carbon .
I have been using clr with the same good results. Barlow
 
Are you asking about barrel or brass?

Question was for brass. I think we all know barrels have to be as clean as possible. But is the inside of brass necessarily have to be sqeeky clean? Outside, yes, because of the dies.
 
When talking cases , cleaning in a wet tumbler with SS Pins and Sun detergent and water , cases come out looking brand new inside and out. I wouldn't mess with CLR on my cases . Barrel yes but get it all out , a few drops on a patch is fine , don't saturated the patch could discolor steel if you leave some on the steel. Get your barrel as clean as you can , run a patch with CLR an see what happens , what I thought was clean wasn't . Just get it all out .
 
I don't want to see this thread. I don't want to see this thread. I already have a double lifetime supply of copper, carbon, lead (for 22's) powder and God knows what else, sitting in a large plastic shoe box waiting for each bottle to be used and disposed of. Right now, I am about 7/8ths finished with current bottle of Bore Tech Eliminator. Hopefully, I will be able to report a need to restock before I take a dirt nap.
 
Question was for brass. I think we all know barrels have to be as clean as possible. But is the inside of brass necessarily have to be sqeeky clean? Outside, yes, because of the dies.
If consistency is the most important thing, one would assume 'yes'.
 
FYI, the most accurate shooters in the world, at 100 and 200 yards do not clean the inside of their cases. They preserve some level of fouling inside of their case necks. There seems to be a lot of assuming going on here. Test, and believe your targets. Also, consider that stronger measures require more attention to the details. I would not treat CLR like some known quantity bore cleaner when it comes to leaving it in a bore for longer than is necessary to get the job done. I have done quite a bit of research on the ingredients and their effect on steel and have had a friend get very good results for carbon, but he was no fool and used his bore scope to establish how much time and what method worked best.
 
I realize that the OP is looking for a barrel cleaner but FWIW:


From the CLR website:


CLR is not recommended for use on painted surfaces, colored grout, aluminum, etched glass, Formica, natural stone, brass, copper or other certain metals.

I had a nightmare with CLR not reading the warnings - it can be rather corrosive.
 

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