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best die LOCKING ring

If you use two lock rings and tighten them against each other, you'll eliminate that loosening issue. I've gone to Hornaday and use the quarter turn cam-loc system. I can change dies in a few seconds and be confident that the settings have not changed.

CH did that years ago, with a Allen screw.
 
Some time ago, it occurred to me that most shooters just assume that their non O ring lock rings are square, that their threaded bores are perpendicular to their faces. I can tell you that they may not be. I can say this because I have seen this tested and corrected.

If you chuck up a piece of round stock, turn it to the major diameter of a 7/8-14 thread, square the end and thread it, you now have threads that are coaxial with the CL of the lathe spindle. At this point you can thread on a lock ring, tighten it and put a dial indicator on its face while you turn the lathe by hand and see what you have. You may be surprised. At my suggestion a friend did this as well as facing off a number of lock rings for each of us. I have no idea if this helps anything, but I would rather have things square and correct than not.
 
I've got to say that as a newbie to hand loading I find it somewhat surreal that FL or body sizing dies are made the way they are - that is, with no micrometer-style ability to adjust them in lieu of fiddling with a locking ring. Surely there is a better way... A sticker on the lock ring is better than nothing but I would have thought, in the context of an environment where people pay silly money for the slightest edge, someone would have come up with a better solution.

(I use a Co-Ax press.)
 
I've got to say that as a newbie to hand loading I find it somewhat surreal that FL or body sizing dies are made the way they are - that is, with no micrometer-style ability to adjust them in lieu of fiddling with a locking ring. Surely there is a better way... A sticker on the lock ring is better than nothing but I would have thought, in the context of an environment where people pay silly money for the slightest edge, someone would have come up with a better solution.
Redding Competition Shell Holders. Buy two sets then grind one set's holders top flat .001" lower and you'll have 10 in .001" increments.
 
...whidden dies have solved all the issues folks seem to have with dies.

Just better get that sucker ordered several months in advance of when you think you need it. I'm on 15 weeks and counting. Out of curiosity I checked at 13 weeks and was told it would be four more weeks minimum. Not complaining. That's why I ordered it last October. I figure I'll have it in plenty of time for when matches start. Just giving a heads up if anyone has plans to have one in hand for this shooting season. You are already late.
 
Just better get that sucker ordered several months in advance of when you think you need it. I'm on 15 weeks and counting. Out of curiosity I checked at 13 weeks and was told it would be four more weeks minimum. Not complaining. That's why I ordered it last October. I figure I'll have it in plenty of time for when matches start. Just giving a heads up if anyone has plans to have one in hand for this shooting season. You are already late.

Last one i ordered was at my house the same week, but it was considered an in stock item.
 
Below is more of a question seeking opinions than a statement.

In the Speer #9 reloading manual there is a chapter entitled "Modern Benchrest Reloading Techniques" by Neal Knox. This is 1974 dated "modern" techniques.

The author states with the lock ring loose and the die adjusted to the correct height then lube a case and run it into the die. He states this will center the die in the press threads and the shell holder or a shimming washer will help square the die.

The authors point above is you can lock the die down off center and tilted in the coarse 7/8x14 threads.

The Co-Ax press allows the die to float and the jaws allow the case to float in the press. And I assume nothing pushes upward on the die to square it.

Whidden dies are shorter and never touch the shell holder.

Question, if the die never touches the shell holder what squares the die with Whidden dies or in the Co-Ax press or standard dies raised above the shell holder. And does this have any effect on shoulder uniformity when sizing.

I'm asking because I prefer Lee lock rings with their o-ring and using Redding competition shell holder making hard contact with the die. To me the Lee lock ring allows the die to float and helps center the die and the Redding competition shell holder squares the die.

In this forum and in other forums and authors like Glen Zediker they say they prefer that the die never touches the shell holder.

This posting is about the "best" die lock rings but how do all of you make sure the die is centered in the press and not tilted after tightening the dies lock ring. And does shell holder contact with the die improve concentricity and case shoulder uniformity.
 
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