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best die LOCKING ring

Nope,
My old man served 27 years, I ate plenty of beans
Dude..

I hope your dad didn't serve in the Army, their tech manuals were only written to a 8th grade level and our Air Force manuals were written to a 12 grade level.

So don't take too hard "DUDE", I like you as much as I like Bart B.

P.S. All those beans you ate are now showing up here as fecal debris and Bovine Scat.

So what is the best lock ring if its locked down and the die is not centered and square in the presses threads. :rolleyes:
 
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I have Redding dies. The ring is not split. If you tighten the screw a lot the screw damages the threads making it very difficult to rotate. I took the screw out of all my dies and put a small piece of rosin core soldier in the hole to protect the threads.

The redding die lock ring should have a #9 lead BB between the screw and the die thread. When ready to loosen it, tap it smartly at the screw onto a solid bench and the ring will be loose.

what you are experiencing is the lead grabbing the thread, not damaging it, likely.
 
I hate to bring this thread back up again because it went south pretty quick, looks like.
I wanted to though because I just tried the Forster lock rings, and like them best over the others. I like them because you can tighten them down by hand and not have to use any pliers or wrenches. If you want the die locked completely solid all you have to do is tighten the cross bolt screw slightly snug. Loosen this screw and they unscrew with your fingers easily. I’m assuming that being made of aluminum makes them have a little grab, and this is why they finger tighten so easy. This may not work where someone is wanted to leave their die and lock ring permanently set together though.
 
For my Co-Ax I use the Forester lock rings. While other can fit and work, they just don't work as well in my opinion.

For my standard presses I basically don't like any of the lock rings. For the ones with the set screw toward the threads, I find that after locking them down, it makes it very hard to make minor adjustments. And if they don't have the lead shot or plastic ball in front of the set screw, then the set screw damages the threads enough to make easy movement impossible. For the split ring style, if you tighten the lock screw when the ring is tight on top the press, you can't unscrew it. So you have to tighten it with the die slightly out of position.

While playing around with using an O-ring under the lock ring to improve die alignment, I found this method worked best for allowing me to make minor adjustments without the problems listed above. Kind of like the Lee lock ring that incorporates an O-ring - that I hated at first. I never tighten the lock ring down any longer. I just compress the O-ring with the lock ring and the die NEVER moves. And I can make half a thousandths adjustments easily. I just make a reference mark on the die that I line up with a point on the press threaded insert. Works fine for me. The picture is taken with the die up from the use position so you can see the O-ring.

View attachment 1084929
In addition to the cautions with lock rings and benefits of O-rings, I'll add that a set of resin jaw pliers are extremely useful for "cinching" the die into the press or adjusting a bushing die. Amazon has a set for under $10 delivered via prime. They are spring loaded which makes them really easy to use one handed. The enlarged setting is perfect for dies. No more bite marks on your beautiful dies!6in Resin Jaw Pliers.jpg
 

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