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Benchrest stock makers

I'm glad I got most of what I'll ever need before Alex realized how cheap he did the shit work! Just a matter of a fresh barrel now and again, and heck almost everyone has a lathe in their moms basement!

Tom
 
JMayo said:
My McMillan weighs less than a pound.
Then weight added to the butt for balance to make 13.5 custom weight.
The rake has to be ibs & nbrsa compliant.

Getting them inleted & bedded cost around 700.oo by my information. This is where "the rub" is. (Ouch!)

I really don't care who the stock maker is. If it'll work for the games i play I'll shoot it.
Click to expand...
is the McMillian stock the edge
 
Alex Wheeler said:
This LV will be sweet after a little dye and clear...View attachment 1435070
Click to expand...
Serious question for you....
So I get asked frequently about bedding before or after refinishing stock. Generally I prefer to have bedding done 1st before paint, knowing some actions are getting glued in I've had them come with a pre bed so to speak just to get roughed up and glued.
So my question is, on this Roy Hunter will you finish it 1st before bedding and gluing or do a 2 step bedding job?
I ask because I've wondered if bedding after paint wouldn't produce a equally quality job.
Thanks
 
urbanrifleman said:
Seems to me you could easily do that with a chassis design. Just drop the whole "stock" thing altogether.
Click to expand...
One issue to keep in mind when you are trying to wring all of the accuracy out of a given barrelled action is vibration damping. I think that for most applications this is not critical, but for some, it definitely is.
 
Bc'z said:
Serious question for you....
So I get asked frequently about bedding before or after refinishing stock. Generally I prefer to have bedding done 1st before paint, knowing some actions are getting glued in I've had them come with a pre bed so to speak just to get roughed up and glued.
So my question is, on this Roy Hunter will you finish it 1st before bedding and gluing or do a 2 step bedding job?
I ask because I've wondered if bedding after paint wouldn't produce a equally quality job.
Thanks
Click to expand...
I bed them first. I think the finished product is nicer. I can bed the stock, leaving the bedding slightly high. Then sand the bedding down flat with the top of the stock. A nice flat bedding line without any waves or texture which gets covered with the clear or paint right up to the edge of the action. If you bed after finishing you have that exposed bedding line thats just not as well finished. Not to mention working with a finished stock is just asking to scratch it. I wont even do it anymore. Even wiping off the jb from a glue in can dull the finish. It is abrasive. So I tape the top edge when I do that, sometimes have to rebuff the top if too much squeezed out. The only down side to finishing after is being real careful taking the tape out so not to lift the paint. It takes over and hour for me to get the tape out so I dont scratch the bedding or lift an edge. Theres no easy or quick way of doing any of this. Some solvents can get through the tape I found. Early on I had to redo some bedding jobs because after removing the tape there was a slight texture to the surface of the bedding. We got that figured out real fast.
 
Bc'z said:
Serious question for you....
So I get asked frequently about bedding before or after refinishing stock. Generally I prefer to have bedding done 1st before paint, knowing some actions are getting glued in I've had them come with a pre bed so to speak just to get roughed up and glued.
So my question is, on this Roy Hunter will you finish it 1st before bedding and gluing or do a 2 step bedding job?
I ask because I've wondered if bedding after paint wouldn't produce a equally quality job.
Thanks
Click to expand...
I like to "pre-bed" and at least have to handle the freshly painting stock a lot less. I don't think it affects the quality of bedding as long as no spots are left that might cause a problem, like clear getting under the tape etc.
 
Alex Wheeler said:
I bed them first. I think the finished product is nicer. I can bed the stock, leaving the bedding slightly high. Then sand the bedding down flat with the top of the stock. A nice flat bedding line without any waves or texture which gets covered with the clear or paint right up to the edge of the action. If you bed after finishing you have that exposed bedding line thats just not as well finished. Not to mention working with a finished stock is just asking to scratch it. I wont even do it anymore. Even wiping off the jb from a glue in can dull the finish. It is abrasive. So I tape the top edge when I do that, sometimes have to rebuff the top if too much squeezed out. The only down side to finishing after is being real careful taking the tape out so not to lift the paint. It takes over and hour for me to get the tape out so I dont scratch the bedding or lift an edge. Theres no easy or quick way of doing any of this. Some solvents can get through the tape I found. Early on I had to redo some bedding jobs because after removing the tape there was a slight texture to the surface of the bedding. We got that figured out real fast.
Click to expand...
Thank you
I agree on the time it takes to get the tape off bedding and the tedium involved.
I'm sure we both have a few tricks for that OH SHIT moment when peeling the tape.
I'll continue to request bedding first it was a passing thought I had.
Thanks again for the input.
Brett
 
Alex Wheeler said:
I dont see it happening. I dont know what Kelbly's was selling them for but obviously not enough to want to continue making them.
Click to expand...
I tried to buy their molds. It was all good until one day Jim called and told me they were not gonna make stocks but didn't want to sell their molds either. I didn't understand but it wasn't my call. Like Dusty, I wish someone was making a good and affordable composite stock. Not much available out there but wood and the high dollar carbon fiber stocks. Those guys were already behind. I'm sure it's worse now. Maybe Jim will change his mind and sell them to me...or to someone willing to make them.

I like the way their molds were made, split top from bottom. It allows a inlet fixture for different actions to be bolted into the top half of the mold so that the stock comes from the mold already inletted.
 
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Dusty Stevens said:
Its way too heavy for a lv gun. Its getting inletted now though and going to be nice
Click to expand...

I thought you were going to cut the bottom of the stock off to give it the angled bottom which I would have thought would take off quite a bit of weight.

It seems to me that short-range Pinterest is shrinking to such a small market that it's not really worth anyone's time to make a short range within the rules stock especially for cheap.

Maybe it's time to drop those old rules simply because the market can't sustain them. Maybe it's time to rethink the entire short range of interest paradigm to make it fit the modern world instead of trying to make the world fit that very specific set of rules. Just a thought.
 
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