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Another Carbon Cleaning Experience

Thats as bad as the fried guys we used to find in switchyards when they cut the last ground grid connection with 500kv overhead. We found one with a logging chain thrown over a 230kv line to ground it and trip it. His friend said they thought they had enough time to hacksaw the lines before we found the problem. They had no idea there are automatic reclosers on the breakers.
Natural selection strikes again i suppose
 
Try CLR on a exhaust valve, or an exhaust turbine wheel. Nothing short of media blasting removes THAT carbon. CLR does.
I use it on my cans as per TBAC.. I would use it on my barrels but I got a bore scope and know now.
 
Anhydrous Ammonia
The word anhydrous means WITHOUT Water. It is Ammonia (NH3) in its purist form. It must be retained in a pressure vessel to keep it from evaporating. If you try to store Ammonia at atmospheric pressure, it will evaporate into the atmosphere. Anhydrous Ammonia is 99-100% pure ammonia. At atmospheric pressure it boils at -28* F.
Household or Industrial strength Ammonia
This is Anhydrous Ammonia mixed with water. The maximum amount of ammonia that will stay in a water solution, is 21%. Anything over that will evaporate into the atmosphere. The stuff you buy stored in a plastic bottle usually runs between 10 to 20 % Ammonia.
 
Just reading all this info. Really informative, and sure there are many who appreciate learning from those who take the time to post their "problems" and solutions. Best forum & shooters :)
 
if I want to really clean my barrel I use J&B or ISSO the other liquids are just not up to the task. if I have a carbon ring ISSO will remove it quickly. other liquids are not up to the task.
 
Yup. That's it.




Is this the stuff?

images
 
I called CLR the lady that I spoke with advised that CLR will remove carbon and can be used on 414SS but may remove bluing.

She advised to not to let it set for more then 3 min on SS that had a protective coating kitchen or bath appliances .

The part I didn't like was "rinse off with cold water" I then ran four patches with CLR then four patches dry and the I used a water based cleaner Slip 2000 and it worked good checked my barrel with a bore scope and I was surprised how much carbon it removed with just four patches.
 
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Clr is way too off the wall for me to get it around a rifle. Skunk spit may be even better but im not going to try it either. There hasnt ever been carbon i couldnt get rid of between my usual solvents combined with red or blue jb, iosso or flitz. Just stay on top of it is the trick.
 
Why would a farm use anhydrous ammonia? And how do the dopers steal gas ammonia? I figured that would be way too deadly, like stealing black mambas. Ive seen em try to steal hydrous ammonia- its in liquid form and is easy to get plus useful for making meth for sure. Ive seen hydrous ammonia used in making fertilizer

Dusty, we used to buy anhydrous ammonia in 25 ton lots and use it as a nitrogen fertiliser on our farm (sugar cane). It is applied by injecting it underground with a specially designed farm implement. Nasty stuff and equipment and hoses had to be top grade and inspected/replaced regularly for safety reasons. It was a cheap byproduct of nickel refining.
 
Mixed up some eds red after reading this thread and ran it through a thoroughly cleaned barrel (used kroil and patch out with accelerator and a bronze brush till clean patches came out clean) i couldnt believe how much carbon was still in there once the eds red started working.

Unless you borescope it, you don't actually know its clean - even if the patches come out clear.
 
I toured a fertilizer factory in Gallena Illinois . They made it with steam and natural gas ( methane ). Its nasty stuff but corn fertilized with anhydrous ammonia will yield just as high as ammonium nitrate with less cost and less soil leaching . Has anyone tried oven cleaner to clean barrels ? It melts the carbon right off on my wood stove glass doors .
 
One thing no one brought up is dealing with all the chemicals in Ed's Red and disposal as well. I sure don't want to be dealing with ATF, acetone and other harsh chemicals for 40 years of shooting. I'll stick with JB bore paste and simple green.
 

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