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AGS Brass Annealer

Finishing up on another upgrade of the AGS Annealer :)
Unit will be taller, with digital pwm, and a new add on - possibility to mark brass :) I am considering enlarging the openings, so it can be used for 375 Cheytac as well.


 

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Sorry if this has been asked and i missed it but how does it work with small stuff, like 22 hornet? Will I need custom inserts?
Also, is the only difference between the 2.0 and the 3.0 the height of the unit?
 
great machine! Digital unit was not available when I bought mine. Do you think the digital one makes a difference? I am happy with mine the way it is.
 
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It depends on preferences in my opinion, every setup (timing, with tempilaq) should be done each time one runs a batch (if using non regulated torch that is - with regulated, its easier to dial in the percentage of the output power/timing).
 
I ordered mine on Wednesday before Thanksgiving, and got it the 30th (the following Wednesday). Wish I had looked around the site a little before I ordered and I would have bought the riser at the same time.
I have my power supply and torch ready to go, just waiting on my hose to go from the torch to a remote bottle.
I should be up and running next week. I will make something to raise the unit up while I am wanting on the hose
 
I just purchased an AGS Brass Annealer 3.0 with an extra torch holder.

Looking forward to getting everything annealed as I was sorting some 220 Swift brass I had reloaded several times and in tossing bad ones I always crimp the neck so nobody can reload them. I had maybe 20 of them and noticed the hardness was all over the map, some nice as expected others so hard it was difficult to crimp. Definitely need to do some annealing.
 
I just purchased an AGS Brass Annealer 3.0 with an extra torch holder.

Looking forward to getting everything annealed as I was sorting some 220 Swift brass I had reloaded several times and in tossing bad ones I always crimp the neck so nobody can reload them. I had maybe 20 of them and noticed the hardness was all over the map, some nice as expected others so hard it was difficult to crimp. Definitely need to do some annealing.
I've annealed three calibers now and well over 1k pieces. No issues, but there's a few things I'd likely have done differently. The torch holders need to be tightened far too much to keep it from drifting and it can be a bit tricky given the double jointed clamps. I can only see that becoming more of an issue as I get older and dexterity goes with it.

I'd probably change the screw to a bolt and a recessed nut into a keyed hole (inside facing) with a large tightening knob (outside facing) as it would make it easier with small batch work where the user is changing it often. It would also remove the possibly of stripping the threads. It also can get pretty warm when you do runs around 200 and I've got mine sitting on a large thick aluminum cookie sheet that also works great as a heat sink. Adding a small fan with heatsink under the top might be a good enhancement, like a small cpu fan/heatsink.

A bulk feeder would be handy too :D

Oh yeah and using Tempilaq Advanced really helps get the timing right. I use 650F down about 1/3 as we need to reach that temp and 400F from shoulder down the case body to assure we're not hitting that too low on the case body. I've found 400F is triggered by the case discoloring but not much below it. I have read that changes start about 490F so 400F leaves plenty of margin. It's just nice to know I'm not under or over annealing and I'm definitely not annealing the base or anywhere close to it.
 
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The torch holders need to be tightened far too much to keep it from drifting and it can be a bit tricky given the double jointed clamps.
well, a trick i learned was to make some collars of varying height out of old brass (it fits perfectly over the post) and purposely leave the holders 'a little loose'. then instead of trying to absolutely fix the flame in place, it is easy to fine tune adjust the torch on the fly. the weight of the gas bottle keeps it in place very nicely.
 
well, a trick i learned was to make some collars of varying height out of old brass (it fits perfectly over the post) and purposely leave the holders 'a little loose'. then instead of trying to absolutely fix the flame in place, it is easy to fine tune adjust the torch on the fly. the weight of the gas bottle keeps it in place very nicely.
Oh man, here I was thinking about finding some tubing and doing that when I have all the tubing I could ever need sitting in my discard bag, lol. Thanks for waking me up a little.

I don't actually use the disposable bottles, gave those up decades ago. I use a 1g bottle and a splitter host for the two flames. Years ago I changed over my frame tent to a three way setup using a 5g bottle, (stove, inside/outside lanterns). No worries of running out. When I used to pack into the back country (horse/mule) I used the same only with a 1g or 2g bottle depending on trip time.
 
I've annealed three calibers now and well over 1k pieces. No issues, but there's a few things I'd likely have done differently. The torch holders need to be tightened far too much to keep it from drifting and it can be a bit tricky given the double jointed clamps. I can only see that becoming more of an issue as I get older and dexterity goes with it.

I'd probably change the screw to a bolt and a recessed nut into a keyed hole (inside facing) with a large tightening knob (outside facing) as it would make it easier with small batch work where the user is changing it often. It would also remove the possibly of stripping the threads. It also can get pretty warm when you do runs around 200 and I've got mine sitting on a large thick aluminum cookie sheet that also works great as a heat sink. Adding a small fan with heatsink under the top might be a good enhancement, like a small cpu fan/heatsink.

A bulk feeder would be handy too :D

Oh yeah and using Tempilaq Advanced really helps get the timing right. I use 650F down about 1/3 as we need to reach that temp and 400F from shoulder down the case body to assure we're not hitting that too low on the case body. I've found 400F is triggered by the case discoloring b ut not much below it. I have read that changes start about 490F so 400F leaves plenty of margin. It's just nice to know I'm not under or over annealing and I'm definitely not annealing the base or anywhere close to it.
This thread shows how I installed adjustment knobs on mine
 
some nice ideas here :) I ll look into that, to see if it can remain affordable with it (bulk feeder is something we are working on, but it will be a separate item).
 

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