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A copper remover test

The copper was still visible in the morning but now I short stroked a few tight patches of ISSO in the bore and WALA, no more copper.

Presumably, the CU+2 softened the copper to the point that it was easily removed by a mechanical method.

I think if you skip the CU2+ and go straight to Iosso, you'll find that the white paste is simply much more efficient at removing copper than any chemical is. I use it when I want to get the barrel back to a perfectly clean steel condition (at least the parts that aren't firecracked), but remain worried enough about any increased wear to not use it as a standard cleaning regimen.
 
Br shooters get 30mins to clean and load ammo- and id bet those barrels are cleaner between matches than those that take 2 days. Yall gotta rethink your processes and chemicals. Id drink a whole lot if i had to use anything from hoppes or outers to clean
That explains why an old buddy of mine used an industrial, high percentage ammonia to clean his SS BR barrels. Just a few minutes, maybe 3-5 patches at most. I forget what his neutralizing agent was.
 
I think if you skip the CU2+ and go straight to Iosso, you'll find that the white paste is simply much more efficient at removing copper than any chemical is. I use it when I want to get the barrel back to a perfectly clean steel condition (at least the parts that aren't firecracked), but remain worried enough about any increased wear to not use it as a standard cleaning regimen.
You using a brush or patch applying IOSSO?
 
New factory shot barrel, Savage 110 Elite Precision: (Bore scope verification between steps)

Initial bore scope was nothing short of a sewer pipe. Copper abound. Green, white, gold colors. The worst I've seen so far with my bore scope. My process:

1. Outers Foaming bore cleaner: 45 min set of application. Initial foam made the bore bleed blue. Additional 2 applications did nothing. Scrubbed bore with bronze brush and Ballistol for carbon. Black first patch, clean subsequent patches. Copper readily apparent.

2. Alcohol swabbed the bore and applied Hoppes Black Copper remover. First application provided some more deep blue patches. Second application, nothing. Scrubbed bore with Ballistol bronze brush. Black patch initial, clean subsequent patches. Copper still apparent, but reduced.

3. Alcohol swabbed bore and applied Birchwood Caseys "Bore Scrubber". 45 min set and first patch blue, rest clean. Copper still present in bore. but reduced.

4. Scrubbed bore with Ballistol on a bronze brush. 50 passes. Bled black first patch. Clean subsequent patches. Copper same level as previous attempt.

5. Flitz metal polish on a bronze brush and 50 back & forth scrubs. Black 3 patches. Followed up with Ballistol to clean bore of Flitz. Bore scope showed drastic reduction of copper. 5% of what was initially observed in the barrel from the start.

6. Overnight foam of the outers to see if remaining copper cleans off.

Initial thoughts: Chemical warfare on copper seems to work to an extent. Mechanical scrubbing is superior. Update tomorrow.
Weren’t you supposed to be going to The Ukraine?? Perhaps I’m misremembering
 
In another thread, someone mentioned they were folding over the edge of a patch to get a tighter fit on a parker hale jag. I've found it to work pretty good.
 
I use a pretty simple method for cleaning ALL MY Bores . Two Rods ,two brushes ,Two Mops two jags , one set under bore the other bore size . Sealed bore guide .
First an under bore size mop soaked with C-4 , two -four times allow 10 minutes set ,then nylon brush . I Only go with the rifling NEVER back and forth NO matter what I'm putting down the bore . I just barely exit muzzle unscrew whatever attachment ,then place a poly cap over threads and draw back .
I then use Jag and patch soaked with acetone , dry patch once or twice . Another Dewy rod with Mop soaked with Montana X Treme and repeat above process .

After final dry patch ,I run a soaked jag with acetone patch followed By either a combo of Hoppes & Boeshield T-9 or Hoppes & LSA weapons oil . No matter what I soak a patch with ,it comes out neutral ,NO Carbon ,No Copper .

Before firing I run two dry patches and one acetone patch ,followed by #2 fouler's .

It seems to works for Me .
 
In another thread, someone mentioned they were folding over the edge of a patch to get a tighter fit on a parker hale jag. I've found it to work pretty good.
That's how I run ALL MY jags ,the Jag is covered by the patch so NO brass touches Bore . My Rod's are Dewy and Bronze brass Parker hale Jags . I'm NOT convinced Bronze brushes do significant scratching on bores but I got a deal on a bunch of Nylon brushes ,so I switched years ago .
 
Hammer bullets colluded with some aliens. I didn't have one bit of copper what-so-ever in my bore! 100 Hammer bullets fired too. Amazing!
Generally speaking copper fouling is inversely proportional to the quality of the barrel. Show me a hand lapped barrel from Krieger, Shilen, Hart, etc., and after breaking-in I’ll show you little or no copper. When we buy a 700 or savage we get what we pay for and sometimes less.
 
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Then there is the layer cake question. Clean carbon first to reveal copper? Is there layers of carbon between copper? I'm a bit perplexed with this since the initial foam treatment produces a lot of copper fouling removal as evidenced on the patches...
I think that is a great question, and would love to dig into it deeper with all you guys, I'm a cleaning nut, and have given my opinion alot over the years. But, the bore scope don't lie! And, layers are a common occurrence.

I use all 3 bore tech products, one after another, as the 'scope shows me what is still in there after each "step".

How do you guys that use a bore scope, attack the layers of copper and carbon? Sorry if I interrupted your thread Gargoyle, I thought you brought up a good point.
 
Where in the barrel are you seeing the layer of carbon/copper?

I'm seeing only carbon in the first 3-5 inches, the copper is always further down.
Carbon does build up in that first 3-5 inches but I haven't see copper appear as the carbon is removed.
For the copper further out, I haven't seen carbon appear after the copper is removed.

This is with a 223 shooting 69/80 grain bullets in a 24" barrel with 70-80 rounds per range session/cleaning.
 

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