30-30 Powder Inputs

[USAFRet]

I agree, if OP can source some 3031, that's the way to go. It is a bit more temp sensitive, but I use for my 303 savage with 150gr RN. My testing/tuning was 50 degrees and below. It did just fine. Doesn't miss at iron sight distances. I also have a Rx7 load with a 130 spitzer. No issues at iron sight distances as well.

DRT at 110yds with the 130 spitzer. Got that buck right at first light, ruined a whole day I had planned for a wonderful stalking hunt. It also introduced me to the good ol cheetin can.

View attachment 1536607

Very Nice!

 

[USAFRet]

Well, results were not exactly great. On the LVR, one of the load listing says I can go to 38.5. The group was improving and I hear that LVR has the best groups toward the top end. I will test that and move on the CFE 223 and IMR-4895.

 

[451whitworth]

I was working in North GA on the homestead and found some 3031 at the gunshop that has all the reloading gear. It was $39 and I couldn't say no, so that is what I will be using. I had planned on WIN 748 but its my go to for 223 and I would just as soon use it for that

Last Sept. a friend of mine had received two rifles from his grandpa's estate and wanted to use them for deer season in November. One was a Marlin 336 in 30-30 the other a Winchester 64 in 32 Spl. Using Hornady and Speer bullets in those rifles, Win 748 was the clear winner. We were amazed how small the groups were with 748.

 

[358WCF]

It seems I used 30 gr of 3031 for 150s & 170s, but check that before loading. That was back before I kept records.

Count me as another vote for 3031 or 748.

 

[Chestnut]

Are you just trying to get tight groups? Maximize velocity? Both?

I figure it depends on the rifle as well. I have a Marlin 336 with an 18" barrel. Lvr powder works ok in it. I also shoot H335 and so far that has resulted in tighter groups but much slower speeds. My 140 monoflex load is 2075 fps but hits dang near 1" groups at 100y. Where I hunt 100Y is way longer that I'll ever get a shot so the velocity is good enough.

 

[USAFRet]

Are you just trying to get tight groups? Maximize velocity? Both?

I figure it depends on the rifle as well. I have a Marlin 336 with an 18" barrel. Lvr powder works ok in it. I also shoot H335 and so far that has resulted in tighter groups but much slower speeds. My 140 monoflex load is 2075 fps but hits dang near 1" groups at 100y. Where I hunt 100Y is way longer that I'll ever get a shot so the velocity is good enough.

I would like to be at 2200 with about one inch groups. This rifle is capable as it gets .5 MOA with PPU 150 and Winchester PPT 150.

 

[USAFRet]

It seems I used 30 gr of 3031 for 150s & 170s, but check that before loading. That was back before I kept records.

Count me as another vote for 3031 or 748.

I will be picking up a pound of each if nothing in my stash gets me where I want to be.

 

[mmcu]

I would like to be at 2200 with about one inch groups. This rifle is capable as it gets .5 MOA with PPU 150 and Winchester PPT 150.

Believe me, I like to develop loads as much as the next guy, but if I were getting 0.5 MOA with factory hunting ammo I'd move on and call it a day.

As it's not mentioned in your post, I'm assuming that you're shooting at 100 yards. If my assumption is correct, that's exceptional accuracy out of any lever action 30-30!

 

[USAFRet]

Believe me, I like to develop loads as much as the next guy, but if I were getting 0.5 MOA with factory hunting ammo I'd move on and call it a day.

As it's not mentioned in your post, I'm assuming that you're shooting at 100 yards. If my assumption is correct, that's exceptional accuracy out of any lever action 30-30!

Yes, 100 yards. It will be my backup, but I would like to come up with a load close to that and be able to get a few hundred rounds loaded and move on. Plus if ammo gets stupid again and you can't find any.

EDIT: And is it just the reloader in me that wants to reproduce the factory results with handloads? Should I call it a day and just buy 10 boxes of ammo?

PPU



Winchester Power Point

 

[ebb]

Ok you talked me into it, I will try some of the 748

 

[Todd Earhart]

150gr interlock over 38.5gr 748
2290 fps\ 1 inch at 100
336 marlin

 

[USAFRet]

150gr interlock over 38.5gr 748
2290 fps\ 1 inch at 100
336 marlin

I am seeing a trend.

 

[Dimner]

Yes, 100 yards. It will be my backup, but I would like to come up with a load close to that and be able to get a few hundred rounds loaded and move on. Plus if ammo gets stupid again and you can't find any.

EDIT: And is it just the reloader in me that wants to reproduce the factory results with handloads? Should I call it a day and just buy 10 boxes of ammo?

PPU

View attachment 1537016

Winchester Power Point

View attachment 1537017

First, yes, PPU ammo isnt all that expensive even now, so if I were you I would buy a few more boxes of it just to have on hand.

The second thing I would do, is spec out that factory ammo. Get it's COAL, neck diameter, and its cartridge Base to Ogive. Then dissect the cartridge and I would take notes on the bullet: Bearing surface, Base to ogive, weight, length, diameter. Do similar for the case, get the OAL, the shoulder measurement, and the case neck thickness. Look at the powder and see if you can tell anything about it. Spherical or stick powder etc. Do some calculations with the bullet you pulled and see how far off the lands it sits with the factory loaded specs.

Of course the next part is a wild ass guess, but see if some the of the specifics you learned to tweak your handloads. Something about those factory specs might jump out. For example, I was working on handloads for my 270 with hornady interlocks. Well the factory ammo with interlocks were for some reason shooting better than my handloads with the same bullet. Taking some notes on the factory load, I found out that the interlocks I was using were undersized by half a though. I had not thought of looking at my bullet diameter. Switched bullets and everything got better.

 

[Murray Brook]

I've been loading for over 40 yrs and still get a little nervous when I load for my 2 Model 94's. You have to keep in mind that they are not bolt guns and can't hold nowhere near the pressure of a bolt gun. The standard pressure signs that we learn in reloading bolt guns don't apply for these actions. These actions will be in pieces long before you see these signs. I guess what I'm saying is I wouldn't pursue velocity that much and stick to loading manuals that developed their load data with the model rifle you are using.. JMO

 

[USAFRet]

I've been loading for over 40 yrs and still get a little nervous when I load for my 2 Model 94's. You have to keep in mind that they are not bolt guns and can't hold nowhere near the pressure of a bolt gun. The standard pressure signs that we learn in reloading bolt guns don't apply for these actions. These actions will be in pieces long before you see these signs. I guess what I'm saying is I wouldn't pursue velocity that much and stick to loading manuals that developed their load data with the model rifle you are using.. JMO

I never go over the load manuals. Just some manuals have different max loads. I do keep check, especially if the round is hard to eject. Thanks.

 

[USAFRet]

First, yes, PPU ammo isnt all that expensive even now, so if I were you I would buy a few more boxes of it just to have on hand.

The second thing I would do, is spec out that factory ammo. Get it's COAL, neck diameter, and its cartridge Base to Ogive. Then dissect the cartridge and I would take notes on the bullet: Bearing surface, Base to ogive, weight, length, diameter. Do similar for the case, get the OAL, the shoulder measurement, and the case neck thickness. Look at the powder and see if you can tell anything about it. Spherical or stick powder etc. Do some calculations with the bullet you pulled and see how far off the lands it sits with the factory loaded specs.

Of course the next part is a wild ass guess, but see if some the of the specifics you learned to tweak your handloads. Something about those factory specs might jump out. For example, I was working on handloads for my 270 with hornady interlocks. Well the factory ammo with interlocks were for some reason shooting better than my handloads with the same bullet. Taking some notes on the factory load, I found out that the interlocks I was using were undersized by half a though. I had not thought of looking at my bullet diameter. Switched bullets and everything got better.

Had a buddy tell me the same and sent me a link to get the PPU bullets they are using. Great idea on dissecting a round to take measurements and see what type of powder is being used. At least then it is an educated guess.

 

[wright brothers]

What does PPU stand for?

 

[USAFRet]

What does PPU stand for?

Privi Partisan

 

[wright brothers]

Thanks AF.
New to me.

 

[Chestnut]

Man i am jealous of your 30-30 and facoty ammo accuracy. The best I could find for my gun was closer to 2moa. The cheap stuff was closer to 5" groups at 50y.