Need Advice on Finishing my Wood Stock

[Bc'z]

Ok, so I've been following along all day while at the shop painting cars, my replacement walked out after 2 months.

Prepping for finishing

My 3 main grits of paper
80 for the heavy work, careful of your details you will eliminate them completely if not careful. 120 would be a good compromise
180 to remove 80 grit marks followed with 320.
Blow the sknot out of all your pores, clean with naphtha.

Next is how ever the spirit moves you...
For me depending on customer wants I'm either dying the wood before primer or going directly to primer for blocking and prep for clear.

I've personally never done a oil finish
@joshb Or @Preacher would be better tutors for this operation.
I've also never used any grain filler, I just stripped a stock for a guy where it had been used, my thoughts were it muddled the grain and its appearance.

I have often wondered if a person was to use a pedestal style buffer with 12" loose flannel buffing wheels to rub/burnish the oil wouldn't help speed up the process and create a high luster.

@CjC73 That is a nice stock you got, whichever direction you decide to go I look forward to seeing the finished product.
And yes I would dye it even if I was going to use oil for my top coat.
Also do all your inlet and bedding BEFORE you do your final sand or apply any products.

 

[CjC73]

@Bc'z ....thanks for the advice. I'll start sanding.

Will mineral spirits work the same as naphtha?

 

[Bc'z]

@Bc'z ....thanks for the advice. I'll start sanding.

Will mineral spirits work the same as naphtha?

Couldn't say.
I only ever used Naptha, it's what I was taught. A quart is cheap and goes a long way.
If you have any questions feel free to shoot me a message and I'll give you my number.

 

[ggshoots]

I have done many traditional wood stocks and my favorite is still true oil. I don't use fillers either, my process of filling grain is to put a couple of fairly heavy coats of true oil on first. Next use some 220 or so paper, a small piece and dip it in just a little true oil. Sand in a circular motion covering just a few square inches at a time and it will create a slurry that will fill many of the pores. Leave a film of this on the stock. You may need to do this a couple times but it works well and will not cause a cloudy effect which many fillers will. After this you can start your regular sanding process, quite often I may go 2 coats between sanding. It will just take a little dab of oil on your finger to rub in an area at a time.

One other thing is you may have to use 80 grit if there are a lot of machine marks but if the area doesn't need a course grit don't use it. You can create a lot of sanding by using a courser paper than needed. Another thing I'm wondering is what caliber this is for? That is going to be a very nice looking stock but I really don't care for the butt pad. now would be the time to switch it maybe to a Pachmeyer or grindable Limbsaver. If its a heavy kicker I don't think you can beat the Limbsaver. A solid pad will look much more complimentary to the stock.

Have fun and take your time. If you don't sand away features as mentioned earlier everything else can be fixed. If you can do it in a climate controlled area or basement with dehumidifier it will dry much quicker between coats. As you get farther along make sure each coat is able to dry. Let it cure well when done before trying to buff it out or wax it. The longer you can let it sit the better and once again in a dry environment.

Oh yes I am a fan of lacquer thinner. It dries extremely fast and it is about all I use. Many ways to skin a cat and we all have our methods and I cant say any are wrong really, as long as it looks nice when done. True oil as well as others are easy to do small repairs on. Stay away from using silicone based lubricants as they get in your wood and you will play hell doing any repairs or refinish.

Add one thing that Im not sure was mentioned. When done sanding wipe the stock down with a wet rag, the wood will whisker up. Let it dry then give it a light sanding. This will really help smooth things out.

 

[joshb]

So, I've been wanting to try doing this myself for a while and I'm finally going to tackle it. The stock is rough shaped, lots of tool marks and such. Inletting should be close, I'm sure I'll have to finish that a touch or two.

I've read a LOT online and here on steps and how to get to the actual finishing stage. One of my many questions will be what finish? I have TruOil, Arrow, Gloss Wipe-On Poly. But open to getting what I need to do it right. I'm leaning towards a glossier finish. But I realize I'm a long way off from this stage.

Guess my first steps will be to start sanding. 120 or 220 grit to get to the shape I want it? Being careful not to create ridges and go with the grain as much as possible. Any other tips at this stage?

Here is the before picture of my stock. Wood is walnut with rosewood (?) grip cap and tip.

View attachment 1457571

Hi! Nice stock! A good Dewalt palm sander is a great tool to have. Buying one with the Velcro pad is good for the ease of changing paper and it gives you a little cushion to keep from forming sharp edges and flat spots. Never let it sit in one spot. Keep it in constant motion while on the wood.
If hand sanding, it’s good to use a foam pad under your paper. I like the ones they sell at paint stores for sanding drywall.
Sand with the grain, always.
As Bc’z said, do your inletting and bedding before you sand the stock.
More tomorrow……

 

[Herzo]

Once you have the stock sanded to the level that you want, my recommendation is GB Lin-speed. Apply thin coats with your fingers and palms rubbing it in. Allow each coat to dry (it may take several days). Once dried, knock the finish down with 4-0 steel wool. Continue the process until the finish is level. 4-0 may be used to eliminate any Sheen to the finish, or you may continue to build to a gloss.

 

[ggshoots]

I quit using steel wool as so much of it is cheap Chinese crap and disintegrates then get stuck in your finish. If you use steel wool get good stuff, I think its German made. Rinse it in laquer thinner or something to get the oils out of it.

 

[DHD]

I've started to use another product on wood as it is easy to apply and easy to touch up. Minwax Polycrylic. Not a traditional product for stocks but I've had good luck using it on custom revolver grips (Blackhawk's mainly). It has held up well, seals very well, and the part I really like is it is clear. So many urethanes will add a color (yellow) or slightly darken woods. Polycrylic goes on clear and dries clear. I use it on countertops even in wet areas and it has held up as well as I hoped. I can always lighly sand and recoat if necessary.

I have a bad habit of using a finer grain paper to start with and taking longer to get where I want to be. That being said, I don't run into problems rounding edges or sanding out features either. I will use a backer for the paper to support it. Use good quality paper too.

That stock wants some checkering....

 

[CjC73]

Plan is right now for it to go on my Tikka stainless 6.5x55 Swede.


I currently have this sander, but I'm not opposed to buying a new tool if the round orbitals are a better option.

 

[CjC73]

That stock wants some checkering....

maybe, would make it pop. I'll have to look into that. See who does that sort of thing.

 

[joshb]

Plan is right now for it to go on my Tikka stainless 6.5x55 Swede.


I currently have this sander, but I'm not opposed to buying a new tool if the round orbitals are a better option.


View attachment 1457859

I thought that bottom metal cut was for a Tikka! Nice pick on the cartridge. One of my favorites!
Those square pad sanders are a PITA to use, but if you already have it…..
Try to use the Ryobi. I bought one years ago. It lasted 3 days before it broke. If I had my way, I’d run them out of business for selling junk! I’ve been using my Dewalts for 20+ years without a problem. Just sayin.
I start with 120 grit and go up to 1000.

 

[CjC73]

I thought that bottom metal cut was for a Tikka! Nice pick on the cartridge. One of my favorites!
Those square pad sanders are a PITA to use, but if you already have it…..
Try to use the Ryobi. I bought one years ago. It lasted 3 days before it broke. If I had my way, I’d run them out of business for selling junk! I’ve been using my Dewalts for 20+ years without a problem. Just sayin.
I start with 120 grit and go up to 1000.

LOL... i have dewalt hand tools with batteries, so a battery operated palm sander is totally within possibilities. Needed that Ryobi one years ago for a small job, it was corded, so very cheap.

 

[Kittitas George]

I've done a few stocks over the years. I've never used a power tool, just sanded by hand with sand paper or fine steel wool. A little steam or damp rag with a clothes iron will raise the grain. Hand rubbed coats of True Oil will give a beautiful finish. True Oil was being used on the Cooper Rifles the last time I was in their Stevensville, MT factory. Another layer of True Oil can always be added if scratches happen. True Oil also makes a wax product. I'm sure some of the new poly finishes may seal better, I'm just an old fashioned oil finish guy. Good luck, be patient, that's a beautiful piece of wood.

 

[Kurz]

That stock wants some checkering....

maybe, would make it pop. I'll have to look into that. See who does that sort of thing.

https://customstockmaker.com/

Robert Szweda, stockmaker, has done best checkering for many of the top custom gunmakers.

 

[CharlieNC]

I'm no expert, but have tried all of the hand rubbed options which have been mentioned. So far I like Arrow the best, as you can achieve the luster and depth which is desired. No problem to touch up scratches. I personally like the classic "warm" look vs the high gloss auto clear coat.

 

[Ccrider]

Couldn't say.
I only ever used Naptha, it's what I was taught. A quart is cheap and goes a long way.
If you have any questions feel free to shoot me a message and I'll give you my number.

I see you stop at 320 grit. What happens if you put in some extra time and go on to 500 and then 1000 or maybe even 1500-2000.

Been years since I did anything but I always did this and got a really slick finish. Of course that was a while ago when staining, sanding and then adding numerous single coats if urethane and sanding was the accepted way to finish wood. Lot of elbow grease but immaculate finishes if you put the time in.

 

[Steel Mover]

I cut and finish stocks, only do oil sanded in finshes anymore. Only use Brownells Pro Custom Oil.

Fit the action, removing enough material to glass bed the action 100% with under cuts and holes to hold the glass in place, plus the bottom metal. I use Acragless Gel with or without adding metal powder, it has ground up fiber in it already. Simple even mx, gel to hardner with color dye. Make sure there is plenty of bolt handle clearance in the stock and for a scope as mounted. Cut the barrel channel to free float the ballel 100%.

Put two layers of duct tape on the barrel. Then put two coats of Johnsons Paste wax on all the metal parts, including action screws, without the trigger attached or magazine. Color the mixed Acra glass a shade darker than the wet stock wood. Cover every part that may ever get Acra Glass on it, Acraglass Gel is stronger than steel.

With rose wood, you must remove the oil first. I use acetone on non dyed shop rags, wet with the acetone, 3-4 washes of the rose wood should get the rose wood ready to work. When it is finish sanded, wash the rose wood again mulpitle times so the oil finish will penetrate, then start to apply the finish.

Start the sanding with a high speed palm sander, in progression, removing all prior sanding marks 120, 140, 160, etc. At 300-340 wet and dry you should be ready to apply the first coat of Pro Custom Oil. Mix the PCO with 50% mineral spirits in a bottle, with a drop or two of Japan Drier, shake it up real good. Flood the wood surface, let it whisker up. Allow to dry. Sand in a circular motion with wet paper cutting the whiskers off and filling the pores and grain with the oil wet sand paper dust in a paste. Let it set a few minutes in small areas the wipe across the grain with course paper, brown paper towels.

The layers of oil, sand, paste, fill, wipe, must totally dry between each next layer. 10-20 layers the wood will start to take on a polished stone look in spots. As the wood is filled it takes longer to dry. You continue until the entire stock has that same polished stone appearance and is totally dry.

Then you rub the stock down with medium fell pads, miniral oil and Rotten Stone powder, being careful to only smooth the surface not to go through the finish. If you go through the finish you must start again. When perfectly smooth. apply Deluxing Compound, a 1200 grit rubbing compound mixture with wax.

Any checkering is done when the stock wood is finished. Checkering cuts are sealed with a tooth brush with finish oil rubbed on in each direction, wipe around to get the over spray from the brush off the surrounding wood immediately.

Best fit and finish on flat surfaces is to sand the wood with the metal in place, then refinish the metal.

These are examples of some of my wood stocks. Different styles and actions.
y

 

[DHD]

https://customstockmaker.com/

Robert Szweda, stockmaker, has done best checkering for many of the top custom gunmakers.

That was exactly who I was thinking of but could not remember his name.



I have used Tru-Oil 4ish times. It did give me a good final finish and I did not mind the process. The one I liked the best was my first and it also cost the most so I was very careful. It is a 1885 C Sharps Highwall with a higher grade of walnut. I don't remember how many coats I did but I filled the grain and made it glass smooth. Naturally it shows every little scratch it has recieved. I would do it again though.

I will say that the guys who fit wood for a living earn their money. Heck, everyone who does stock work earns their money.

 

[6MMsteve]

medium walnut trans tint dye with a dab of orange would make that stock pop, is the thing I use medium walnut always, with a touch of orange and yellow mixed...but use a test pc but just the oil will do,, or no dye at all

 

[joshb]

I see you stop at 320 grit. What happens if you put in some extra time and go on to 500 and then 1000 or maybe even 1500-2000.

Been years since I did anything but I always did this and got a really slick finish. Of course that was a while ago when staining, sanding and then adding numerous single coats if urethane and sanding was the accepted way to finish wood. Lot of elbow grease but immaculate finishes if you put the time in.

He doesn’t need to, as he’s spraying on his finish. Those finishes are pretty thick compared to most of the oils.