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Factory Rifle Accuracy

270WinDude have you tried a rem 9 1/2 primer ? try them...I try not to shoot them but they do shoot good.
That 140 should shoot. I would try .010 off...3.340 OAL...then .060 off and if you of them shoots better then try like .010 in or out from there and see if its just depth sensitive. How much IMR 4350 have you used? what brad Brass?
I've only used imr4350 with ccibr2 and fed210 primers.
Today:
IMR4350:
52.5gr 2993fps, 3017, 3013, 2986 4 shots at 3.25ctc and 3 at 1.24
53gr 2975. 2973, 2975, 2970 6 inch 4 shot group
53.3 3018, 3022, 3016, error 1.367ctc

RL22 57gr (previous tested as accurate...)
3101, 3122, 3086, 3107, 3103, 3197 4.3'ctc group


I also shot some vmax…

Before I left I did a 3 shot group with 140gr American whitetail factory and it was about 1.5inch

Previous 140vld with 4350(most has been with rl22):
.002 jump ccibr2 new win brass
50gr 2828 2812 2813 2814 1.709ctc
50.5gr 2835, 2829, 2838, 2839 .285 ctc
51gr 2881 2841 2865 2851 1.92ctc
51.5 2913, 2879, 2907, error 2.489ctc (noted: all vertical dispersion and 1 high shot opened it up)
52gr 2891 2949 2910 2922 3.071ctc with 3 at 1.14 and 2 touching

Now that I look at it, I think I only had 1 box worked up for imr4350 and 140vld. I shot it in 2 range days. This was also one of my first ever handloads. I'm also JUST NOW remembering I shot all my remaining first handloads today... I wonder if that could be an issue... That first batch of brass I didn't catch in time, a ton were loaded with win brass with oblong deformed, pretty bad, primer holes. I think I will go ahead and try it again with fireformed brass and I seem to do better with hornady brass.
 
I shoot at Josephine county sportsmans park. About 2 miles from my house.
I loading 130 nosler bt with rl17 at the moment printed a .7 on Friday with it.
Questions.
Action screws ring n mount screws tight?
What's trigger pull weight?
Barrel floated? Action bedded?
Are you stuck loading to mag length?
It pays to check these things regularly.
Just questions that I ask myself is all.
Which reminds me I have to release the factory preasure point on wife's rifle.
DAMN it all, I knew I was forgetting something bout her rifle.
You know what else... I did recently take off the action to bed it into a new stock with devcon and put it back on the old stock for today until I get a longer front action screw... I load based off of land measurements and load one at a time. Should have verified tight action screws. Trigger pull weight is factory, was set by factory to 300 pounds and I lowered it to lowest setting, about 299.6lbs. Okay making sense, hope to correct my issues. Thanks for letting me vent and work out stupidity here..
 
You know what else... I did recently take off the action to bed it into a new stock with devcon and put it back on the old stock for today until I get a longer front action screw... I load based off of land measurements and load one at a time. Should have verified tight action screws. Trigger pull weight is factory, was set by factory to 300 pounds and I lowered it to lowest setting, about 299.6lbs. Okay making sense, hope to correct my issues. Thanks for letting me vent and work out stupidity here..
I seriously reminded myself about wife's stock, so thank you.
What dies are you using?
I have rcbs and a Lee collet in 270.
I run the rcbs in to touch she'll holder then back out 3/4 turn for neck sizing.
I'm not using the Lee die, your welcome to try it.
 
I seriously reminded myself about wife's stock, so thank you.
What dies are you using?
I have rcbs and a Lee collet in 270.
I run the rcbs in to touch she'll holder then back out 3/4 turn for neck sizing.
I'm not using the Lee die, your welcome to try it.
I had a funny situation trying to seat 110gr vmax, lee dies wont work so they had to send me a special mandrel to seat them, works now. While waiting I went and bought rcbs. I have a hard time with my lee collet neck sizer but it seems to do the trick. You have to screw it down tight, like 2 turns past touching shell holder at least. I'm actually going through measuring all brands of brass and before and afters with various dies and sizing along with number of shots in chamber. My only complaint is when I seat bullets some times I get them all spot on, other times there is a .002 variance in seating depth. Not sure if it's the way I install the die, the die, the press or what. I wanted to go the expensive die route but figured I wont do that until/unless I need a custom size to my chamber one day.
 
0FCB7A20-82DA-451F-B864-3A13F40297CA.jpeg
Shot this yesterday, Remington 700 Milspec in .308 Winchester. All groups shot with bipod off concrete bench.

First group is the middle one at 100 meters.

Second group is the top one with Magnetospeed attached, also at 100 meters.

Third group is bottom one at 200 meters.

Rifle is stock except for a Jewell trigger.
 
If any of my factory rifles shot 1/2MOA consistently I would be doing backflips. I did have an older Rem 700 222 varmint that I think could do it.
 
I have Tikka varmint in .223 with a 24” barrel that shoots hand loaded 80.5FB bergers on top of 24.2gn of varget. The picture is a group measured with my ballistic App and is at 300M and about .69MOA. This group was shot after 60rds on the day and about 30 in my weekly Comp a from the Saturday before that. Hadn’t been cleaned.

Everything on this rifle is Factory original except pic rail and bifold (which is a cheap Harris clone). That said it’s a Tikka and not something lesser.

Seriously love this rifle.
 

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I have a factor 700 in 223 that's pretty accurate for a factory gun.

This rifle survived the 18 year old me learning about JB bore paste (if a little JB is good, a lot of JB is better), 3 piece uncoated cleaning rods, and I even shot an SS pin down the barrel. It's got close to ~4k round down the tube, I can't see rifling for the first 2-4" of the bore, but it shot these groups this past weekend.

It's getting a Krieger installed in a few weeks, but I've been taking it out as of late just for nostalgia's sake.

Most of my other factory rifles aren't that accurate though. I'd say if you can get a consistent .5 with a factory barrel you're lucky. The bigger the bore, the less likely that is; at least in my experience.
 

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Same here. I wonder if some folks on these forums mostly mention their good groups only-lol. Even that in itself is relative. I judge a rifle by 10 and even 20 shot groups. But that’s just me. If I shoot 20 rounds in a 1.5” group (at 100 yds.), in a factory hunting gun with factory ammo, I’m satisfied. Some days I’m not in the mood to wait for the barrel to cool. If a 20 round string stays within 2” I’m okay with it. But I likely wouldn’t take more than a 300 yard shot at an animal. After all I like to hunt not snipe. We all have our clovers and bughole groups with the right ammo. I know this is an accurate shooting forum, but I’m actually still interested in hearing about the 2” groups at 200 yards offhand. It’s not the norm but something worth reading about. That’s a person you know doesn’t shoot those type of groups all the time, but certainly practices enough to get in the zone often enough. And someone you can learn practical techniques from.It’s just as interesting for me to hear about those groups as are 700-1000 yards supported prone shooting , with a $1500 plus scope and expensive rifle with a bipod. In my opinion it’s a more practical skill to have
that may save your life in a melt down.
 
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Last week.

Was reading on another forum about factory 308's.... can't remember if they were talking cast or not? Wasn't a long thread,musings really. I was reading and thought,OK I "could" grab a rig and go shoot it. Which is what I did. 1990,bone stock 12T R700VS/HS stock. With a cheap Simmons 6.5-20X44. 150g Lee,has very minimal testing in this rig which dotes on Lyman 175's.

Further.... all the 150 Lee shooting had been done with 4198's. Wanted to change from that,and use up the last 8#'s or so of that old classic SR4759. I like the 4198's better,and the 4759 is discontinued.... needs to be shot. So coming off a reasonable clean,because of the change of powder.... grabbed a bx of 20,the rifle from the safe,and threw the rest up.

10 shots,almost rapid fire,no wind flags. Which,caught me out on shot 6,it's the one on the left. Started holding into the slight,puffy breeze that showed up, about a bullet hole and the rest went into the group. Shot 2 was high,and me. The load needs a bit more powder. Because of no flags,I normally just run groups pretty durn quick for obvious reasons. As such,I can shoot much better. Have 10 shot 175 groups in the low .3's.

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Size is small.
Millage sucks unless going down hill, everything around here is uphill.
3 times last week
Ouch

The first rifle I owned was a 308 sav 10T $350 bucks after sale and rebate basically gave it to me. Did way too much load dev on, 2nd guessed and retested everything for nearly 500 rounds. It knocked the edges off my shooting and load method though so experience gained was worth the pain. That gun with a 178 eldm at 2650 fps would hold .5-.6 moa for 5 shots at 100. Great to 800 yds. Must have had a tight bore as it hit pressure early compared to load data and most bullets significantly outperformed their advertised bc by ~5%

Next rifle (stock sav 12lrp) was sub moa for 5 at 1k after 60 rounds.
 

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I’ve always wondered why there isn’t a competition for factory magnum hunting rifles. We have 600 yard hunting class competitions here that have a limit on barrel contour and scope power but they still are 10 rounds in 10 minutes which chops the magnums out of the picture. I think it would be really cool to compete in something that requires very good recoil management and more accurately replicates what’s being used in the field and has enough time between shots to really see what a factory rifle is capable of.
 
What kind of accuracy to you expect from a factory rifle at 100 Yards hand loaded ?

Have only owned a handful of rifles, and only one currently.

All have been factory, off-the-shelf models. With the exception of one.

A pair of Marlin ported "trapper" rifles were pretty darned accurate out to 100yds, completely factory, unmolested, iron sights. Marlin 1894P .44mag, and Marlin 1894CP .357mag, almost always shot standing, iron sights. On the 1894CP .357, it was always "fist-sized" groups at 50yds, with moderately quick firing, and generally same groups at 100yds with slower firing. On the 1894P .44, I ended up adding a Leupold 2.5x "Scout" scope to the 1894P, and it was quite accurate out to 100yds for me.

On a Remington SPS Varmint .243, after a couple hundred rounds of decent Hornady target ammo, I got roughly ~1 MOA accuracy from it. Installed a Jewell HVR trigger, which by itself immediately cut the groups in half. Then had a custom fiberglass stock made, fitted and bedded to perfection. Again, it cut the groups roughly in half. Was about a 1/4 MOA rifle, after those two changes. Factory action and bolt, factory barrel ... but an after-market trigger and custom stock. Never did hand load for the thing, though I suspect I could have squeezed a bit more accuracy out of it, with that.
 

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