Induction brass annealer redux

[jthor]

Who ever this is...
Looks like they made a GinaErick annealer.

 

[Gina1]

Who ever this is...
Looks like they made a GinaErick annealer.

Looks like they used the same timer. One big difference, the coil that comes with the annealing PCB (higher current PCB) is being used for this one. No water cooling as the coil is strongly discolored, and because of the larger diameter of the coil, annealing is taking longer.

 

[jthor]

Looks like they used the same timer. One big difference, the coil that comes with the annealing PCB (higher current PCB) is being used for this one. No water cooling as the coil is strongly discolored, and because of the larger diameter of the coil, annealing is taking longer.

Wasn’t able to watch the whole thing... just snippets since my internet where I’m at is dookie. Lol

 

[David101]

I could see that it was water cooled have a look at 5.05 min the black on the coil is some sort of insulation. Not a bad job it looks like he used most of the same parts as the original. Not sure how he goes about changing insertion depth and the case release looks good but also perhaps a bit tight.

@LR88 you have really gone the extra yards. Obviously you have some experience in the electronics trade. A great build.

I know the 1/8 tubing for the coil is a tried and tested size, however I have found that using the slightly bigger metric size really helps with coolant flow which reduces any airbubles that may get into the system. I also dropped one coil. It is all working great for me and it is now a step I look forward to doing. Very satisfying with it all working like clockwork.

One thing I would like to test is perhaps get some higher temp Temilaq. I have a feeling that the commercial brass makers take the brass to a hotter temp than we do. Which would mean seeing a faint colour change in a dark room.

 

[jthor]

I could see that it was water cooled have a look at 5.05 min the black on the coil is some sort of insulation. Not a bad job it looks like he used most of the same parts as the original. Not sure how he goes about changing insertion depth and the case release looks good but also perhaps a bit tight.

@LR88 you have really gone the extra yards. Obviously you have some experience in the electronics trade. A great build.

I know the 1/8 tubing for the coil is a tried and tested size, however I have found that using the slightly bigger metric size really helps with coolant flow which reduces any airbubles that may get into the system. I also dropped one coil. It is all working great for me and it is now a step I look forward to doing. Very satisfying with it all working like clockwork.

One thing I would like to test is perhaps get some higher temp Temilaq. I have a feeling that the commercial brass makers take the brass to a hotter temp than we do. Which would mean seeing a faint colour change in a dark room.

I bought an AMP while it was 10% off.... Still gonna use the GinaErick for bulk .223 and testing for this thread. I plan on seeing how hot the AMP gets the brass.

 

[SGK]

Study the work coil also...

 

[jthor]

Study the work coil also...

Ferrite core, but yeah. I plan on converting my GinaErick to a Ferrite core. Much more efficient and no need to go up in power supply if you go the Ferrite core route

 

[Vitold-23]

Ferrite core, but yeah. I plan on converting my GinaErick to a Ferrite core. Much more efficient and no need to go up in power supply if you go the Ferrite core route

It’s much faster with ferrite, the annealing time of WIN 308 takes 1,4 seconds, the sleeve burns out in 4 seconds. Next step I want to install a touch screen and control step engine but I don’t have any experience in programming..

 

[Bad_Donkey]

I have decided to build one of the GinaErick annealers and have ordered most of the parts. I have a stupid question: Does the timer retain the previous settings after powering the unit off or do you have to re-enter each time?

Thank you Gina, Hollywood and all the others that contributed to the thread. I have read thru the entire thread over the past couple days, some of it was over my head though. Shouldn't be to bad of a build, but I am going to stick to the original basic design.

 

[Vitold-23]

I have decided to build one of the GinaErick annealers and have ordered most of the parts. I have a stupid question: Does the timer retain the previous settings after powering the unit off or do you have to re-enter each time?

Thank you Gina, Hollywood and all the others that contributed to the thread. I have read thru the entire thread over the past couple days, some of it was over my head though. Shouldn't be to bad of a build, but I am going to stick to the original basic design.

Yes

 

[Bad_Donkey]

Yes

Is that a yes it retains the setting or a yes you have to re-enter each time?

Thanks

 

[Gina1]

I have decided to build one of the GinaErick annealers and have ordered most of the parts. I have a stupid question: Does the timer retain the previous settings after powering the unit off or do you have to re-enter each time?

Thank you Gina, Hollywood and all the others that contributed to the thread. I have read thru the entire thread over the past couple days, some of it was over my head though. Shouldn't be to bad of a build, but I am going to stick to the original basic design.

The timer does retain the programming information, even when power is removed. No question is ever stupid. Always best to ask it rather than stumble around.
If I can help with your build, just ask.. Good luck.
Gina

 

[LR88]

Just one question. What are the specs on the trap door solenoid your using and where did you purchase it ?. I get questions as my original solenoid
called out in the parts list is no longer available.

Gina

Sorry
I bougth this solenoid (12v , chinese made) years ago from ebay
it´s no longer available .
but the power supply i used may be interesting for some builders :
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/32951308066.html
good value, and it came with two extra potentiometers for external mounting.

 

[SGK]

My build is nearly finished.
All functions are done by a ESP32 dual core microcontroller with wlan, bluetooth and a filesystem on board.
It is controlled by a 480x320 px touchscreen
The files (eg. configuration, cases-data) are editable via webbrowser.
It also logs the data of the last annealing cycle (voltage, current ,temperature every 1/10 second) and displays it with google charts.
The height of the trapdoor is adjusted by a linear drive for each stored case

What volt/ammeter are you using?

Please post the results of your tests in the other thread here also! I think they are very important/interesting.

 

[Frog]

Got my 1/8 copper tubing and 2 fans
Waiting for some hose clamps
I wouned up a coil and added the 1/4 inch copper tubing to it
My annealer is now running at 8.1 amps on idle and around 11.2 amps with a 30-06 case in the coil for 4.5 seconds
Again THANK YOU Gina for starting this post

 

[Gina1]

Got my 1/8 copper tubing and 2 fans
Waiting for some hose clamps
I wouned up a coil and added the 1/4 inch copper tubing to it
My annealer is now running at 8.1 amps on idle and around 11.2 amps with a 30-06 case in the coil for 4.5 seconds
Again THANK YOU Gina for starting this post

 

[LR88]

What volt/ammeter are you using?

I use no external volt/ammeter.
The measurements are taken by the microcontroller itself via a AD converter, and displayed on the screen.

 

[SGK]

Ok let me ask the question another way. What circuit are you using to sense current? The micro controller is presumably just doing the AD sampling of a physical circuit.

 

[ottsm]

I used the following for amps; DFRobot Gravity Analog 20A Current hall effect Sensor
It reads in the negative region so when you scale it you need to take this into account. They also make a 50A version. Other companies also make the same thing.

Simple voltage divider can be used for the voltage reading, if you don't want to make one yourself try this; Octopus Voltage Divider Brick
It is about 0-80VDC, you will need to adjust the scale factor a little for accuracy.
RobotShop.com has them if you are in the US

I used a single pole digital filter to smooth the signals out, it solves every 10 milliseconds (this is the "metro" interval object that makes programming easier). By taking a percentage of the old value and then adding it to a remaining percentage new value it will smooth any noise in the signal out.
Arduino code would look something like this (at least I think I got it all);

#include <Metro.h>

#define Analog_Amps_Pin A0
#define Analog_Volt_Pin A1

float Analog_Volt_Val = 0;
float Analog_Amps_Val = 0;

Metro Analog_Inputs_Read = Metro(10);

void setup() {
}

void loop() {
if(Analog_Inputs_Read.check() == 1){
//To smooth analog signals use a single Pole Digital Filter [out=wt*out+(1-wt)*new]
Analog_Amps_Val = 0.50 * Analog_Amps_Val + 0.50 * ((analogRead(Analog_Amps_Pin) / 1023.0 * 5000.0 - 5000.0/2.0)/100.0);
Analog_Volt_Val = 0.75 * Analog_Volt_Val + 0.25 * (analogRead(Analog_Volt_Pin) * 0.079101);
}
}

 

[Gina1]

I used the following for amps; DFRobot Gravity Analog 20A Current hall effect Sensor
It reads in the negative region so when you scale it you need to take this into account. They also make a 50A version. Other companies also make the same thing.

Simple voltage divider can be used for the voltage reading, if you don't want to make one yourself try this; Octopus Voltage Divider Brick
It is about 0-80VDC, you will need to adjust the scale factor a little for accuracy.
RobotShop.com has them if you are in the US

I used a single pole digital filter to smooth the signals out, it solves every 10 milliseconds (this is the "metro" interval object that makes programming easier). By taking a percentage of the old value and then adding it to a remaining percentage new value it will smooth any noise in the signal out.
Arduino code would look something like this (at least I think I got it all);

#include <Metro.h>

#define Analog_Amps_Pin A0
#define Analog_Volt_Pin A1

float Analog_Volt_Val = 0;
float Analog_Amps_Val = 0;

Metro Analog_Inputs_Read = Metro(10);

void setup() {
}

void loop() {
if(Analog_Inputs_Read.check() == 1){
//To smooth analog signals use a single Pole Digital Filter [out=wt*out+(1-wt)*new]
Analog_Amps_Val = 0.50 * Analog_Amps_Val + 0.50 * ((analogRead(Analog_Amps_Pin) / 1023.0 * 5000.0 - 5000.0/2.0)/100.0);
Analog_Volt_Val = 0.75 * Analog_Volt_Val + 0.25 * (analogRead(Analog_Volt_Pin) * 0.079101);
}
}

Not your basic GinaErick. You guys are making my head spin. Guess I'm just an old throw back
I have my old slide rule in a glass case "in case of power failure, break glass"
My hats off to all you young whipper snappers.