4-stage stock finishing process?

[Tommie]

Getting ready to sand and seal a new claro walnut stock. The wood has nice figure and I want a finish to really make the wood "pop". Seems like I read about a process that goes something like this:
1) Mix 25% oil (tung or linseed?) with 75% (some thinning agent...was it kerosine?). Apply to stock and allow to dry. Sand stock.
2) Mix 50% oil with 50% thinning agent. Apply to stock, allow to dry and then sand stock.
3) Mix 75% oil with 25% thinning agent. Apply, dry, sand, etc.
4) Apply 100% oil to stock, dry sand, etc.
5) Repeat step 4 as desired.

OK. Can anyone fill in the blanks? The photos I saw of the finished product looked amazing. I’d also like to know if, once completed, this surface can be waxed. Below is my unfinished stock.

Appreciate all the help, guys!

Tom

 

[Fast14riot]

For that I would seriously consider Tru-Oil. The process can be sped up, too. I used to do 7-10 coats a day.

 

[nicholst55]

I believe that Tung oil and mineral spirits are what you seek. Looks like a pretty piece of wood.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

With a chunk as nice as that id send it over to @bc’z and get it cleared. Itll help with the changing weather.

 

[Tommie]

I believe that Tung oil and mineral spirits are what you seek. Looks like a pretty piece of wood.

That sounds very familiar. Have you used that combo?

 

[olddav]

This is the method I have used on the stocks I've finished.
If your patient it will produce a high quality finish. To complete the finish of the stock add a few coats of Tru Oil for ahigh gloss finish.

http://www.savageshooters.com/content.php?436-Wood-Finishing-Technique

 

[Tommie]

This is the method I have used on the stocks I've finished.
If your patient it will produce a high quality finish. To complete the finish of the stock add a few coats of Tru Oil for ahigh gloss finish.

http://www.savageshooters.com/content.php?436-Wood-Finishing-Technique

That’s great information. Thanks!
Question. After the first application of tung/spirits do you immediately do the wet sanding or is that done after the first coat is dried?

 

[NorCalMikie]

Had a stock that I had finished with BC Tru Oil. Didn't look too bad but after a couple of years, I needed something different. Sanded it down and had it shot with 4 or 5 coats of Automotive Clear. That stuff brought out colors that I never had seen before. The Tru Oil acted as a sealer. IMHO, Auto Clear is the way to go. Tough as nails.
Get it ready to shoot and take it to your local body shop if you're not set up for spraying.
Most Automotive colors are two stage, color then clear so just about every body shop is shooting clear. Have them shoot it with their next paint job.

 

[Bc'z]

Personally I'd dye it and not true oil. After you've finished sanding stock temper the wood with a hot water rag, not dripping wet
Let set 6-8 hours sand 320grit and repeat. This will stand up all the wood fibers that the final sand is super smooth.
Next mix 25% black to 75% brown
Transtint or colortone dye dilute with water in a 4oz jelly jar.
Let dry 24 hours. Sand with 320 grit.
Now apply vintage amber dilute with water.
Let dry 24 hours. Sand with 400 grit.
Now use honey amber diluted with water.
Here's is before and after shots of a stock I refinished
Before with true oil I believe 15 coats.now here it is dyed with vintage amber and honey amber.
Walnut is very porous you'll need to clear it and sand and re clear 3 to 4 times to get a glass like finish.

 

[olddav]

Tommie,

I lightly sanded the stock with the mixture until it was no longer wet. So lightly that it’s almost like your just scuffing it up a bit (may be a bit more than a scuff). Let it dry and repeat, repeat ......
Takes time but it does turn out a very nice finish!

 

[ledward]

Personally I'd dye it and not true oil. After you've finished sanding stock temper the wood with a hot water rag, not dripping wet
Let set 6-8 hours sand 320grit and repeat. This will stand up all the wood fibers that the final sand is super smooth.
Next mix 25% black to 75% brown
Transtint or colortone dye dilute with water in a 4oz jelly jar.
Let dry 24 hours. Sand with 320 grit.
Now apply vintage amber dilute with water.
Let dry 24 hours. Sand with 400 grit.
Now use honey amber diluted with water.
Here's is before and after shots of a stock I refinished
Before with true oil I believe 15 coats.View attachment 1110238now here it is dyed with vintage amber and honey amber.View attachment 1110239
Walnut is very porous you'll need to clear it and sand and re clear 3 to 4 times to get a glass like finish.

Beautiful! and the stock looks great also!

 

[Tommie]

@Bc'z
Obviously a beautiful stock! I'm more interested in highlighting the natural colors. What prep do you recommend to bring out the existing color and figure?

 

[Bc'z]

Temper the wood a couple times with a hot damp rag and sand with 320.
This will stand the fibers up so that it can be sanded smooth
Medium brown first coat mix it fairly strong, let set overnight. Now sand it back with 400.
The hard grain will sand back to a natural color while the brown dye stay with the soft grain.
Because you sanded in 400 it helps to seal up the pores a bit so next coat dosen't penetrate as deep.
Now use a honey amber wash coat and let set overnight sand with 400 and repeat.
Dont sand last coat go to clear.
Here's a walnut I did in this very manner.

 

[Tommie]

Temper the wood a couple times with a hot damp rag and sand with 320.
This will stand the fibers up so that it can be sanded smooth
Medium brown first coat mix it fairly strong, let set overnight. Now sand it back with 400.
The hard grain will sand back to a natural color while the brown dye stay with the soft grain.
Because you sanded in 400 it helps to seal up the pores a bit so next coat dosen't penetrate as deep.
Now use a honey amber wash coat and let set overnight sand with 400 and repeat.
Dont sand last coat go to clear.
Here's a walnut I did in this very manner. View attachment 1111226 View attachment 1111227

Buddy, you’re an artist.
Since I’m determined to finish the stock with my own hands, the tung oil with mineral spirits finish will be the method I’ll use. In your experience are there any compatibility issues with the wood dye and tung oil?

 

[Bc'z]

@Tommie, as far as I know, no.
The dye is that just a dye, diluted with water.
Top coat is top coat.
I've stripped a few stocks that were done in birchwood casey's tru oil with no problems.
Check out some YouTube videos in using trans tint dyes.
Brett

 

[Tommie]

@Bc'z
Brett, you've helped me greatly. Thank you for taking time to mentor.
Tom

 

[Bc'z]

No worries, as they say YMMV.
Keep in mind I've been spraying for 30 years.
Best of luck, if you have any questions feel free to ask.
I feel it's a lil something I can pass along, as I've learned alot here myself.
Brett

 

[Tommie]

No worries, as they say YMMV.
Keep in mind I've been spraying for 30 years.
Best of luck, if you have any questions feel free to ask.
I feel it's a lil something I can pass along, as I've learned alot here myself.
Brett

For better or worse, I'll post results once it's done. If it turns out great you and @olddav will receive all the credit.