Carbon removal test. Barrel Damage Test.
- Thread starter #40Fan
- Start date
I have one. What would be your preferred method of testing to determine your final outcome?
You got it now"25 minute update.
Alright, should I even try it on the SS barrel? After seeing these results, I honestly don't see it causing any "noticeable" damage? But, on the other hand, I wouldn't be trying this if I didn't want to know for myself.
CLR is what I am REALLY interested in. If it can remove the carbon from the barrel as well as it did from the 300 BLK case, I am game!!
I guess I answered my own question. Tomorrow though, because some of these cleaners stink to high heaven. Especially the X-Treme.
CLR is what I am REALLY interested in. If it can remove the carbon from the barrel as well as it did from the 300 BLK case, I am game!!
I guess I answered my own question. Tomorrow though, because some of these cleaners stink to high heaven. Especially the X-Treme.
Looks fine to me"Well, crud. Please let me know where to send this barrel off for proper recycling.
All looks good after and hour!
Maybe try Draino next"
Just kidding Bro, order some Bore Tech C-4 and Eliminator from Brunos it's cheap and all you'll ever need.
Jim
tmwinds
Gold $$ Contributor
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CLR is what I am REALLY interested in. If it can remove the carbon from the barrel as well as it did from the 300 BLK case, I am game!!
The black residue (soot) in the brass is not the hard carbon you will find in a barrel. CLR will clean the brass and also corrode it. It doesn't do squat for hard baked on glazed carbon except turn a patch gray. You can confirm this if you have a good bore scope and know how to use it. I did. A bronze brush, Kroils, and JB is the oldest and best way to remove hard carbon.
CLR is what I am REALLY interested in. If it can remove the carbon from the barrel as well as it did from the 300 BLK case, I am game!!
The black residue (soot) in the brass is not the hard carbon you will find in a barrel. CLR will clean the brass and also corrode it. It doesn't do squat for hard baked on glazed carbon except turn a patch gray. You can confirm this if you have a good bore scope and know how to use it. I did. A bronze brush, Kroils, and JB is the oldest and best way to remove hard carbon.
Water and a patch will effectively remove the black powder residue (soot). I too have verified that CLR is useless for removing hard carbon. JB or Iosso are the only agents up to it.
Ned Ludd
Silver $$ Contributor
Unfortunately, the type of test you are doing is most likely to reveal only very rapidly-occuring and obvious damage to the steel. It is far more difficult to determine what the effect of repeated short exposures over a long period of time (i.e. routine cleaning) will be.
pirate ammo
Guaranteed to take the wind out of their sails
send it to me,,Well, crud. Please let me know where to send this barrel off for proper recycling.
All looks good after an hour!
Thank you I have been looking for a test like this. Thank you for giving your timeI took six pieces of 300 BLK brass that was tossed into the recycler and carried out a carbon removal test. All pieces still had a primer.
I filled a piece of brass with the following cleaners and allowed them to sit for 20 minutes before dumping the contents down the drain.
X-Treme Copper Killer
Sweets 7.62
Butches Bore Shine
Hoppe's
WipeOut
CLR
I know some are not carbon cleaners, but I was surprised by the results.
After draining each case, I took a Q-tip and brushed the inside of the case to try and get it as clean as I could.
In first place.... CLR. Every speck of carbon had come out. Even looked like the primer was clean.
Second. Sweets
Third. Butches
Fourth. X-Treme
Fifth. Wipe Out.
Sixth. Hoppe's.
Picture of the CLR case.
I did this to learn what removes carbon the best for future use in a barrel. I am NOT cleaning brass cases with this!
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