Induction brass annealer redux

[Frog]

It's called cerrosafe

 

[Monkfe]

To those of you that have built the Fishindog version of this build with the PLC controller. How did you set up your "stage" and "anneal" Sestos timers? set up continuous or single etc.

 

[davexre]

It's called cerrosafe

CS Alloys makes several different products, with different properties. Cerrobend (now called "CS Alloys Bend 158") is one of them, and is indicated for pipe bending. Cerrosafe (now called "CS Alloys Safe 165") is another. Cerrosafe has a higher and less consistent melting point and is intended as a replacement for other alloys in making cast toy soldiers. Cerrobend is intended for tube bending. Either will work for this purpose.

 

[ernest]

Hello ernest

You could have had a defective varistor.. Also check your wiring. At a rating of 240 volts it should have worked. If I may ask, "where do you get your parts"? Only reason I ask is for me to look over (on-line) what is available. Some times parts get mis-marked and you may have gotten a lower voltage varistor. This has happened to other builders, all different parts.

Gina

Hello Gina. I have buy the varistor in UK (ebay ). I try to take a picture of the varistor. I'm afraid to try a second time with the others (i buy five of them)...

 

[davexre]

To those of you that have built the Fishindog version of this build with the PLC controller. How did you set up your "stage" and "anneal" Sestos timers? set up continuous or single etc.

I believe @FishinDog sets his up for single, and then he uses the PLC to trigger the "Start" pin on each timer when he needs them to run?

 

[Monkfe]

I believe @FishinDog sets his up for single, and then he uses the PLC to trigger the "Start" pin on each timer when he needs them to run?

I'll give it a shot when I'm done with my solenoid platforms...getting there....

 

[8mm]

Sir, thank you for posting all this info. Both my contactor and timer came with no wiring instructions. And there are no markings at all on the contactor. How exactly are the posts labeled so I can insert them into the schematic you supplied? I can't afford to fry anything. Thank you.
Mike

 

[#40Fan]

Probably be best to post some pictures.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Sir, thank you for posting all this info. Both my contactor and timer came with no wiring instructions. And there are no markings at all on the contactor. How exactly are the posts labeled so I can insert them into the schematic you supplied? I can't afford to fry anything. Thank you.
Mike

You can use a meter to find out what posts are what on a contactor. If you send me a pic i can probably lead you in the right direction.

 

[8mm]

You can use a meter to find out what posts are what on a contactor. If you send me a pic i can probably lead you in the right direction.

I'm using the parts from the original list from Amazon. On the contactor there are 2 posts on each side in whitish plastic and 2 screw + 4 spade posts at each end. There are no markings anywhere for polarity, in/out, anything. On the timer I can sorta see something at the posts with a good magnifier.

 

[Gina1]

The two posts on each side of the contactor are the inputs to the coil. There are two posts, on each side and are connected together. The screw terminals are the actual "switch" of the contactor.
The screws next to each other are one side of the dual relay contacts. The other set of screws, on the other side of the contactor (relay) are the corresponding connections.
Hope this helps
Gina

 

[8mm]

The two posts on each side of the contactor are the inputs to the coil. There are two posts, on each side and are connected together. The screw terminals are the actual "switch" of the contactor.
The screws next to each other are one side of the dual relay contacts. The other set of screws, on the other side of the contactor (relay) are the corresponding connections.
Hope this helps
Gina

Thank you very much. And - - just received the listed 48v supply from Jameco with no instruction sheet. There is a row of output V- and V+ posts with no other labels. I take it to use the farthest spread V- and v+ posts?

 

[Gina1]

It is up to you. All the + terminals are connected together., Same for the - terminals.

 

[GrocMax]

Should be able to find the manual for the PS in about 30 seconds- look for link on product sales page, or search via model number of PS.

 

[rwj]

Would a low duty cycle machine (max of fifty 6mm cases per session) require a fluid based coil cooling system? Is cooling needed to remove heat radiated to the coil from the case or are eddy currents also induced in the copper coil that generate heat?

 

[#40Fan]

I wouldn't risk it. Even if you just find a way to hook it up to a faucet, or gravity feeding water jug, I'd run water through it.

 

[Gina1]

rej... cooling is needed, even for just a few cases. Without it coil gets VERY hot. Burnt fingers are painful.

 

[#40Fan]

I have to give another big thanks to you, Gina1, for this thread. Just finished annealing some brass and it put a huge smile on my face.

I'm not much for words, so I'll put it like this...

Using something that I was able to assemble....cool.

Knowing there are people out there willing to share their work/ideas....VERY cool.

 

[Gina1]

Awww gee whiz..(blush) ..
Thank you.

Gina

 

[8mm]

Awww gee whiz..(blush) ..
Thank you.

Gina

Sir, I have another dumb question. There has been much said about the wires for the 48V section being 14ga. or larger. Then I saw the wire in the fuse is a hair and the V/A meter wires are maybe 24ga. Are these major restrictions?
Thank you again.