Very good.. figuring out the problem is half the battle. Good group of people here on this site. "Wisdom of the crowd"
Induction brass annealer redux
- Thread starter Gina1
- Start date
Very good.. figuring out the problem is half the battle. Good group of people here on this site. "Wisdom of the crowd"
I would think your build being a constant current power supply helps with that also. Yours is a really neat build.
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I am using a MGR-1 DD220D25 SSR without issues. Just finished my build last week, so I don't have a lot of cases through it.
Any word on what worked for you with the 50 BMG?
#40Fan...
I have not done any 50 BMG. Most certainly you would need a bigger trap door hole. Since the diameter of the case is larger, it is going to be closer to the coil, which will draw more current (basic annealer). With a case in the trap door, bringing it up into the coil, slowly watch the amp meter and do not exceed the max current of your power supply. Depending on what you want to anneal, neck, neck and shoulder. You may have to construct a larger diameter coil for 50 BMG's
I have not done any 50 BMG. Most certainly you would need a bigger trap door hole. Since the diameter of the case is larger, it is going to be closer to the coil, which will draw more current (basic annealer). With a case in the trap door, bringing it up into the coil, slowly watch the amp meter and do not exceed the max current of your power supply. Depending on what you want to anneal, neck, neck and shoulder. You may have to construct a larger diameter coil for 50 BMG's
I gave it a try with the current coil size and was maxing it out at 14 amps. Even after 8 seconds, it wasn't heating it up enough to touch the tempilaq where I am getting good results in 3.5 seconds for .243, .308, 30-06 and 7mm Rem Mag. I think if I don't hear back from dabeechman on what he might have done to get the .50 to work with his setup, I'll just stick with the salt bath annealing for them.
Gina1, I did use your design to build mine, but strayed here and there. I have a few 3D printed parts because my wood working skills suck. Here is a quick video I made before I had the tempilaq to confirm temperatures.
.308 after getting my tempilaq. (front and back view)
7mm Rem Mag and 30-06.
Gina1, I did use your design to build mine, but strayed here and there. I have a few 3D printed parts because my wood working skills suck. Here is a quick video I made before I had the tempilaq to confirm temperatures.
.308 after getting my tempilaq. (front and back view)
7mm Rem Mag and 30-06.
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jthor
USAF Shooting Team
Welp, my project is on hold for the next 7 months, gotta go play in the sandbox.
Just need to wire the momentary switches and solenoid when I get back.
Good luck... STAY SAFE !!!!
Nice design... lots of room. Looks like the computer case was a good idea.
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I gave it a try with the current coil size and was maxing it out at 14 amps. Even after 8 seconds, it wasn't heating it up enough to touch the tempilaq where I am getting good results in 3.5 seconds for .243, .308, 30-06 and 7mm Rem Mag. I think if I don't hear back from dabeechman on what he might have done to get the .50 to work with his setup, I'll just stick with the salt bath annealing for them.
Gina1, I did use your design to build mine, but strayed here and there. I have a few 3D printed parts because my wood working skills suck. Here is a quick video I made before I had the tempilaq to confirm temperatures.
.308 after getting my tempilaq. (front and back view)
7mm Rem Mag and 30-06.
Quick fix.. maybe...
Drop the case, so that only the neck and shoulder is in the bottom of the coil, this way your not trying to heat up the whole case, just the area you want to anneal..
Not sure it will work, but worth a try.
How does your trapdoor work? Noticed it dropped down versus sliding out of the way.I gave it a try with the current coil size and was maxing it out at 14 amps. Even after 8 seconds, it wasn't heating it up enough to touch the tempilaq where I am getting good results in 3.5 seconds for .243, .308, 30-06 and 7mm Rem Mag. I think if I don't hear back from dabeechman on what he might have done to get the .50 to work with his setup, I'll just stick with the salt bath annealing for them.
Gina1, I did use your design to build mine, but strayed here and there. I have a few 3D printed parts because my wood working skills suck. Here is a quick video I made before I had the tempilaq to confirm temperatures.
.308 after getting my tempilaq. (front and back view)
7mm Rem Mag and 30-06.
If anyone is looking for fiberglass to put over the induction coil, this is what I used;
FHNG.08NT Ultraflex AWG 8 Natural 10ft from Wirecare.com
It fits good over the 1/8 tubing, you will want to use some heat shrink on the ends to keep the fiberglass from fraying.
https://www.wirecare.com/category/b...-fiberglass-sleeving-8-awg-natural-10-ft-cuts
FHNG.08NT Ultraflex AWG 8 Natural 10ft from Wirecare.com
It fits good over the 1/8 tubing, you will want to use some heat shrink on the ends to keep the fiberglass from fraying.
https://www.wirecare.com/category/b...-fiberglass-sleeving-8-awg-natural-10-ft-cuts
I have a 3D printer that I used to print out the door. Hinge pin is just a 1/8" wooden dowel. I also printed out the platform, brackets to hold the platform and a few other pieces. Used some hot glue to hold everything together.
The stuff on my coil as well as on the trap door and platform is high temp Kapton tape, commonly used in 3D printing.
Welp, my project is on hold for the next 7 months, gotta go play in the sandbox.
Just need to wire the momentary switches and solenoid when I get back.
Come back safe.
A little worried looking at your pictures seeing that the water pump and tank are sitting lower than the radiator. Should have it as the highest point in the cooling system. In fact, I had to rotate and maneuver the entire rig once I had added coolant to get all of the air out of my radiator. The flow through the radiator is vertical and split into 4 sections.
jthor
USAF Shooting Team
The pump being below the radiator is perfectly fine. Most water cooled CPUs have the same setup and a lot of the time folks have the radiator on the top of the tower. Too include the water cooled CPUs I’ve built. Bleeding the system of air isn’t too difficult.
Thanks for the tip. I was looking for it. I'll be making an induction furnace later this year, out of parts from the original mod 1. The crucible sits in the coil, and needs to be insulated from the coil.
Will be doing lost wax casting from old range brass.
Gina
Having read all the comments and viewed all the pictures, this thread motivated me to build my own GinaErick. Special thanks to Gina and Erick. Thanks also to GrocMax, Chet58, Dabeechman, Davexre, Dskogman, Fishingdog, Jthor, Skunce, and all the others who contributed.
My GinaErick will include the Mean Well RPS 750-48 Power Supply with GrocMax’s voltage divider and switch to set the current. I also ordered a Mean Well RD-65A power Supply with 5 Volt and 12 Volt outputs from Jameco for a few dollars more than the 12 Volt power supply.
The parts have arrived, and I have mocked up and tested the induction board, standard 8-turn coil, power supplies, and voltage divider for the current control. As last tested, it resulted in currents of 16.7,14.7, 13.1, 11.6, 10.4, 9.3, and 8.4 amps. (Yes, I know 16.7 amps at 48 volts equals 801.6 Watts, so I only tested it for a few seconds). The ZVS induction circuit works; and the PCB, heat sinks, and capacitors did not get hot to the touch during testing. As expected, without the fans and water pump, the coil heated up, so I took it slow and easy.
Holding the case with forceps, at 11.6 Amps, it took about 3.8 seconds to anneal a LC .223 case to 750 degree per tempilaq.
While testing, I also annealed a 7.62X39 case, and it took 5.4 seconds at about 13 amps.
If I remember correctly, Gina anneals 6 Dasher cases for 5.4 seconds at 12.5 amps.
It would be interesting to learn other users’ annealing times and current for other cases, i.e., 22-250, 6X55, and 7mm Rem Mag.
My GinaErick will include the Mean Well RPS 750-48 Power Supply with GrocMax’s voltage divider and switch to set the current. I also ordered a Mean Well RD-65A power Supply with 5 Volt and 12 Volt outputs from Jameco for a few dollars more than the 12 Volt power supply.
The parts have arrived, and I have mocked up and tested the induction board, standard 8-turn coil, power supplies, and voltage divider for the current control. As last tested, it resulted in currents of 16.7,14.7, 13.1, 11.6, 10.4, 9.3, and 8.4 amps. (Yes, I know 16.7 amps at 48 volts equals 801.6 Watts, so I only tested it for a few seconds). The ZVS induction circuit works; and the PCB, heat sinks, and capacitors did not get hot to the touch during testing. As expected, without the fans and water pump, the coil heated up, so I took it slow and easy.
Holding the case with forceps, at 11.6 Amps, it took about 3.8 seconds to anneal a LC .223 case to 750 degree per tempilaq.
While testing, I also annealed a 7.62X39 case, and it took 5.4 seconds at about 13 amps.
If I remember correctly, Gina anneals 6 Dasher cases for 5.4 seconds at 12.5 amps.
It would be interesting to learn other users’ annealing times and current for other cases, i.e., 22-250, 6X55, and 7mm Rem Mag.
Congratulations
.Well done. I'm sure once you have the coolant flowing, it will come together even more. I'm sure your going to enjoy using it, every time you anneal. After a day at the range I find it relaxing to anneal the spent cases. About 15 minutes for 100 cases.Good luck and enjoy.
Gina
12 posts up, I have a short video showing how I have my coil squeezed together with some zip ties and insulated with Kapton tape. 3.5 seconds for all of the cases mentioned in the post. Bouncing off of the rev limiter of 12 Amps.
Thanks for the info. I had seen the cases and time, but I missed the current.
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