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Induction brass annealer redux

No problem Jose.

If you have relay contact eroding, or if you just want to make the circuit more fool proof, just solder a 1 uF ceramic capacitor with a 100 V rating (for DC supply voltage of 30-50 V) from the input of the power board (point "Vin" on schematic) to a good ground point.
 
So, basically, as the board is physically assembled, Vin it a 2 position terminal block on the inductor board. If I'm understanding @normmatzen correctly, one can simply place the 1uF capacitor between those two terminals, yes? Soldering would definitely be better/more-secure - but that's those terminals are one possible place electrically, yes?
 
davexre,

If those two terminals are Vin + and -, then yes, hook the 1u F ceramic cap across them. Ceramic caps have very good high frequency characteristics and are non-polarized (no pos and neg issues). Just make sure the capacitor has a max voltage of more than twice the DC supply voltage.
 
why can't we get someone to build annealers like this commercially?

Well Joe.. It just takes someone to do it. The design is open source, no patents. It just takes time and the start up costs. Then there are the other costs. business paper work, product liability insurance, and of course "your" time.

The EZ-Annealer comes close to the GinaErick in function but its $999.00. IMHO I think it more efficient than the AMP (no pilots, and optional auto feed)
 
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There are two nice Induction annealers on the market. One is the AMP from New Zealand. It is the all singing all dancing version that is programmed for exactly your cases. Now an accessory is available for auto-handling of the cases (that is, fully automatic. But, the AMP cost bucks! The other unit is the Annie. Annie has had some ups and downs getting into production. I bought an Annie 5 years ago when they first came out and did suffer through some hard spots. Fluxeon did their best to keep me happy and they succeded! I have been a very happy Annie user for the better part of 5 years! I even made my own modifications to a fixture to hold the cases while annealing (check the sticky above about Annie).
The AMP really does as good a job as the Annie but with some more capabilities, namely digitally programming. They just came out with software up-dates called Aztec that automatically determine the correct program for your case! Of course this unit cost $1000 and the auto handler probably costs as much.
I could afford the Annie and I'm happy!
https://click.fidelityinvestments.c...e12ae96943bc304d4e911e45d884b1af72b6da18c12af
I chose the Annie as I understood the science used in it and it was, I thought, fairly priced. I still think that.!!V are
 
The EZ-Annealer looks to be fairly close to what we're doing here, actually - relatively, anyway. It looks like he's got an inductor board made to take mains AC as the input, so that fixes the need for a separate power supply to feed the inductor. It's water cooled, and uses a trap door style arrangement to feed the cases down.

It's a bit beyond me why he set it up to anneal handgun cases, but... ha ha.
 
The EZ-Annealer looks to be fairly close to what we're doing here, actually - relatively, anyway. It looks like he's got an inductor board made to take mains AC as the input, so that fixes the need for a separate power supply to feed the inductor. It's water cooled, and uses a trap door style arrangement to feed the cases down.

It's a bit beyond me why he set it up to anneal handgun cases, but... ha ha.

Again without looking under the hood, not really sure how it's wired. My guesses are..... for the main power supply he is using a constant current PS to the inductor PCB, so it adjusts for the different size case. More windings on the coil, again for different size cases. A sense coil on the drop tube, to trigger the annealer as a case passed through the tube. and a nicely programmed microprocessor to run the whole thing.
Again I could be wrong, which has been known to happen. :confused:
 
Again without looking under the hood, not really sure how it's wired.

The gallery on his site will show you under the hood, for what it's worth. Actually, I was missing one detail - there's a separate inductor board. Apparently, I looked earlier without enough caffeine :)
 
Here's some photos of my build, plus some thoughts.

I set out to build the annealer such that it would store in between the supports on my loading bench - that meant it had to be narrower than 14". The net result of that is that the whole layout ended up pretty pretty tight, and I had to revamp things several times along the way. Such is the nature of protoyping, I guess.

The build is a basic GinaErick with a couple of small modifications. I used a 30A SSR instead of the contactor relay. Given that some folks may have had problems with that route, we'll see how it goes here. I may opt to install a second SSR to switch the negative side of the power supply, too. I'm also looking into implementing Norm's suggestion about putting a capacitor in between the terminals on the inductor board to fix that problem (finding the right cap is proving interesting).

I also used the Meanwell RSP-750-48 power supply, with the thought that I would have the flexibility to experiment with coil sizes later without risk of nuking my supply or inductor board. I haven't wired up current control, yet - and as you can see, I'm only pulling close to 13A right now. The power supply will do 15.7A. I added a 7 position switch and used GrocMax's spreadsheet to calculate the resistor values to put on the switch. All that's left to do is build the connector harness to hook up the control wire from the switch to the power supply.

Also per GrocMax's suggestion, I added 4 heat sinks to the bottom of the induction board. Those do seem to help keep the induction board a little cooler.

I've said it before, but... my woodworking skills leave a lot to be desired. Of course, I lack great tools, too. I did the whole thing with a SkilSaw, a drill, an impact gun, and a coping saw (which cuts, but basically has a mind of its own). A couple of C-clamps and a ruler allow you to make straight, square-ish cuts w/ the SkilSaw, at least (when you don't screw it up).

With some better tooling and the experience of build #1, I can greatly improve the look, here. But, my fabrication skills are never going to match FishinDog's :-)

The net result is... I have a working annealer that takes up an acceptable amount of space under my bench, and didn't cost me an arm and a leg. Plus, I gained some great experience by building it out myself.

Futures ... I might build a new case that doesn't look like I chewed the boards apart. I might work up a smaller coil (3/4" ID instead of 1" ID). I might convert it over to Arduino or something just to gain some experience working with embedded stuff in an appliance environment. For now, I'm just going to anneal some brass and enjoy it! :-)

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread (especially Gina, Hollywood, FishinDog, and GrocMax)!!

IMG_6705.jpg IMG_6733.jpg IMG_6769.jpg IMG_6770.jpg IMG_6839.jpg
 
Here's some photos of my build, plus some thoughts.

I set out to build the annealer such that it would store in between the supports on my loading bench - that meant it had to be narrower than 14". The net result of that is that the whole layout ended up pretty pretty tight, and I had to revamp things several times along the way. Such is the nature of protoyping, I guess.

The build is a basic GinaErick with a couple of small modifications. I used a 30A SSR instead of the contactor relay. Given that some folks may have had problems with that route, we'll see how it goes here. I may opt to install a second SSR to switch the negative side of the power supply, too. I'm also looking into implementing Norm's suggestion about putting a capacitor in between the terminals on the inductor board to fix that problem (finding the right cap is proving interesting).

I also used the Meanwell RSP-750-48 power supply, with the thought that I would have the flexibility to experiment with coil sizes later without risk of nuking my supply or inductor board. I haven't wired up current control, yet - and as you can see, I'm only pulling close to 13A right now. The power supply will do 15.7A. I added a 7 position switch and used GrocMax's spreadsheet to calculate the resistor values to put on the switch. All that's left to do is build the connector harness to hook up the control wire from the switch to the power supply.

Also per GrocMax's suggestion, I added 4 heat sinks to the bottom of the induction board. Those do seem to help keep the induction board a little cooler.

I've said it before, but... my woodworking skills leave a lot to be desired. Of course, I lack great tools, too. I did the whole thing with a SkilSaw, a drill, an impact gun, and a coping saw (which cuts, but basically has a mind of its own). A couple of C-clamps and a ruler allow you to make straight, square-ish cuts w/ the SkilSaw, at least (when you don't screw it up).

With some better tooling and the experience of build #1, I can greatly improve the look, here. But, my fabrication skills are never going to match FishinDog's :)

The net result is... I have a working annealer that takes up an acceptable amount of space under my bench, and didn't cost me an arm and a leg. Plus, I gained some great experience by building it out myself.

Futures ... I might build a new case that doesn't look like I chewed the boards apart. I might work up a smaller coil (3/4" ID instead of 1" ID). I might convert it over to Arduino or something just to gain some experience working with embedded stuff in an appliance environment. For now, I'm just going to anneal some brass and enjoy it! :)

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread (especially Gina, Hollywood, FishinDog, and GrocMax)!!

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Dave...

I am smiling from ear to ear. You did it, you "built it". As I have said before "this is every body's build." The very important thing is you have a working induction annealer !! AND you still have your arms and legs.
Congratulations !!!
 
Been doing a little work on mine :)
 

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Got everything installed inside the case. Next step is to make the stand and then trap door for the solenoid and then wore things up.
 

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I don't think I ever posted pictures of the version I made. Not quite as complex as some on here, but it does a great job and it was a clean install. Pictures were taken before I had the ammeter connected, I was a little too eager to see it work, haha.

Platform raises/lowers and is easily adjusted via set screw to allow me to adjust the height of the case as it sits inside the coil. Solenoid under the platform controls a trap door.
20160807_201325.jpg 20160909_100936.jpg
 
I don't think I ever posted pictures of the version I made. Not quite as complex as some on here, but it does a great job and it was a clean install. Pictures were taken before I had the ammeter connected, I was a little too eager to see it work, haha.

Platform raises/lowers and is easily adjusted via set screw to allow me to adjust the height of the case as it sits inside the coil. Solenoid under the platform controls a trap door.
View attachment 1035390 View attachment 1035391

Saw yours on YouTube! Tried finding out what case you used before I went and got a computer case. Lol
 
I don't think I ever posted pictures of the version I made. Not quite as complex as some on here, but it does a great job and it was a clean install. Pictures were taken before I had the ammeter connected, I was a little too eager to see it work, haha.

Platform raises/lowers and is easily adjusted via set screw to allow me to adjust the height of the case as it sits inside the coil. Solenoid under the platform controls a trap door.
View attachment 1035390 View attachment 1035391

Very nice... and very compact. Good job. A good photo helps pass on idea's for others.
Thanks for posting.
 

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