Reloading bench build...
- Thread starter TerryH
- Start date
Being in the military, I frequently move, so I need a smaller, more modular setup that will work in a variety of accommodations. I've built several benches over the years, but it wasn't until I discovered these heavy duty, customizable metal benches at WoodCraft that I was finally happy with the arrangement. I mounted a butcher block slab on top, a shelf on the bottom, and voila! With the price of lumber these days, I have less in this thing, and it's a BEAST. I also went with the InLine Fabrication quick-change plates for my presses. Very happy with this setup. I have a set of shelves that sits on top, but it's on another bench at the moment.
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Terry,
The bench looks fantastic. Top notch work there. Can't wait to see how it works once you get all the gear on it. Of course we all know that gear is like candy or potato chips, you can never have just one and one leads to many.
Richardca99,
I like that Inline mounting plate. Have you considered inlaying it into the table top to make it flush. Would provide you with a good work surface when not reloading.
All,
Great ideas here, I am taking notes for my next bench.
The bench looks fantastic. Top notch work there. Can't wait to see how it works once you get all the gear on it. Of course we all know that gear is like candy or potato chips, you can never have just one and one leads to many.
Richardca99,
I like that Inline mounting plate. Have you considered inlaying it into the table top to make it flush. Would provide you with a good work surface when not reloading.
All,
Great ideas here, I am taking notes for my next bench.
joshb
Gold $$ Contributor
I built a few restaurants in my time. They make stainless sheets that are used to cover the walls of kitchens. 3 or 4 mills thick. It comes in rolls, 2' and 4' wide, with a paper backing to facilitate glueing it to any surface you like. Commercial restaurant supply houses sell it.
Not that expensive. Use contact adhesive on it.
Because it's thin, it's easier to cut. Still tuff, but easier.
Being in the military, I frequently move, so I need a smaller, more modular setup that will work in a variety of accommodations. I've built several benches over the years, but it wasn't until I discovered these heavy duty, customizable metal benches at WoodCraft that I was finally happy with the arrangement. I mounted a butcher block slab on top, a shelf on the bottom, and voila! With the price of lumber these days, I have less in this thing, and it's a BEAST. I also went with the InLine Fabrication quick-change plates for my presses. Very happy with this setup. I have a set of shelves that sits on top, but it's on another bench at the moment.
Nice setup indeed!
Linko
Silver $$ Contributor
Thanks. It's a McMillan F Class.
Yes, I did think about that. I didn't have a mini router at the time, and the more I researched what sort of jig I'd have to make to do it right, it became "a thing." I was moving in a few days and needed to finish the bench. If you have ideas on how I'd make that cut nice and clean, I'd love to hear them. I have a router, but I haven't used it a bunch.
There maybe other ways to do this, but how I have done it;
1) Choose a bit with a roller bearing that allows for plunging, 1/2 diameter straight bit should be sufficient although 3/4" would be faster. You can also use a straight bit with a collar attached to the router base that will run along the template edge.
2) Using a piece of plywood, make a pattern that the bearing will follow. If you use a flush bit like Terry did on his table top, you can make the template the same size as the part to be inlaid. This will be U shaped and you can use a couple of wood screws to hold it to the surface or if the patter is large enough you can use clamps. Be sure that the template is tall enough to allow you to only cut as deep as you need and still have the bearing on the template.
3) Most router bases are not large enough to allow you to route out the entire surface area of the plate, so you can attach a piece of plexiglass to the bottom of your router so that it is always supported on the pattern as you route out the area. Make sure that this is stable enough so that it doesn't sag in the middle from the weight of the router. You can also use a piece of plywood but I like to be able to see what I am doing.
4) When you start, do the perimeter first, then work your way back and forth to clean out the rest. Pull the router often to clear chips and ensure that everything is going well. Also, I would set the router shallow and do the whole thing in at least two steps, with a final third for the final fitting of the piece. Always easier to remove more that put it back.
5) Finally, using a sharp chisel, square up the corners from the radious left by the router bit and you should be good to go.
If you have a piece of scrap wood, you can practice this first before you do your actual top. This also allows you to verify the depth of the cut too.
There are tons of examples on Youtube that you can draw from. Here is one,
I hope that this helps.
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Resumed work on the bench project tonight with the drawer cabinet. Cut the sides and mounted the slides using spacers before assembling the cabinet. Much easier to get the slides in that way. I'm using 18" full extension slides that are rated for 100 lbs. They are ridiculously cheap on Amazon.
And the cabinet assembled. I'll edge band it in the morning.
I cut the 1/2" Baltic Birch ply for the drawers tonight. I'll dovetail the corners and assemble them tomorrow. Really hoping to get a first coat of poly on everything before the end of the day.
And the cabinet assembled. I'll edge band it in the morning.
I cut the 1/2" Baltic Birch ply for the drawers tonight. I'll dovetail the corners and assemble them tomorrow. Really hoping to get a first coat of poly on everything before the end of the day.
Good day in the shop today. I began with making the drawers. I typically dovetail all the corners so I got out the PC dovetail jig and went to work. Great little tool. Makes this a simple and easily repeatable job.
Once the dovetails were all cut I milled the groove for the 1/4" melamine bottoms. Important for the groove to be on the lowest tail so it's hidden.
And all 5 drawer parts cut and ready to assemble.
I really like the melamine bottoms. Makes a nice looking drawer.
No clamps necessary here. These joints and a hammer fit so all there is to do is assemble, verify that the drawers are square and let them dry.
While the glue was drying on the drawers I test fitted the drawer cabinet in it's spot.
I also made an executive decision to go ahead and drill the holes and mount the vise and the press. Seemed logical to place the vise at the left end and the press in the center. Guess we'll see how that works out.
I cut some all thread and made up the hand knobs.
Drilled the mounting holes and attached the tee nuts on the bottom of the top.
Seemed to work out well.
I countersunk the holes in the top for some stainless hardware to plug the holes when either item isn't in use.
Once the glue was dry I got the slides on the drawer boxes and installed them in the cabinet.
I cut and fit the drawer fronts, mounted the pulls and installed the completed cabinet.
Can't beat these full extension slides.
I reassembled the top and mounted the vise, press and hutch. Now for a ton of sanding and wipe on poly.
Once the dovetails were all cut I milled the groove for the 1/4" melamine bottoms. Important for the groove to be on the lowest tail so it's hidden.
And all 5 drawer parts cut and ready to assemble.
I really like the melamine bottoms. Makes a nice looking drawer.
No clamps necessary here. These joints and a hammer fit so all there is to do is assemble, verify that the drawers are square and let them dry.
While the glue was drying on the drawers I test fitted the drawer cabinet in it's spot.
I also made an executive decision to go ahead and drill the holes and mount the vise and the press. Seemed logical to place the vise at the left end and the press in the center. Guess we'll see how that works out.
I cut some all thread and made up the hand knobs.
Drilled the mounting holes and attached the tee nuts on the bottom of the top.
Seemed to work out well.
I countersunk the holes in the top for some stainless hardware to plug the holes when either item isn't in use.
Once the glue was dry I got the slides on the drawer boxes and installed them in the cabinet.
I cut and fit the drawer fronts, mounted the pulls and installed the completed cabinet.
Can't beat these full extension slides.
I reassembled the top and mounted the vise, press and hutch. Now for a ton of sanding and wipe on poly.
Thanks Josh! The PC jig is super nice.
Hey Terry: Are you putting a plywood back on those upper shelves? They may sag over time if you don't. 1/4" would do.
Yes 1/4" melamine. Just didn't have it in there for today's pics.
Hey Terry: Are you putting a plywood back on those upper shelves? They may sag over time if you don't. 1/4" would do.
Oh forgot! Full extension slides! Well done!
I found 18" 100lb. full extension slides on Amazon for $54.10 delivered for 10 sets. That's nuts.
joshb
Gold $$ Contributor
Perfect! Let's talk about stain color.........
Just a few coats of wipe on poly. I want to leave it light.
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