Do you see the cratering starting on the two on the right? Can you feel it with a fingernail?
What’s causing that circular stamp-shape adjacent to FP depressions? In your first pic it’s at 5 o’clock on left, then 7 on right. 5-case pic has it moving from 11-9-9-4-12 L>R. I’d have some reservations over whether a bolt face defect could lead eventually to primer leakage.
Surprised you’re not using Palma brass, by now generally accepted to withstand repeated reloadings as well as moderately higher pressures w/o stretched primer pockets better.
Otherwise, carry on! Let us know how this rig performs once you can bear to shoot outdoors! (Warm-up where I am, all of +1F this AM, might top 20 next Monday! First time in three weeks!)
I'm not convinced that results obtained in such low temps as we have now are going to play out anywhere close to the same once the weather warms up anyway.
Probably a good idea, but if you do bother, take good notes.
I was elated to find early in 2016 my go-to load for Fullbore worked superbly at our first match early in April. We started out, it was +19F & by the end never got above +28F. No mis-fires using Palma brass & Wolf/Tula KVB223M primers behind Benchmark. Cold fingers though, on both hands! Hope I never have to repeat that experience.
I much prefer +50F minimum for anything outdoors. Testing at those temps hasn’t led to any surprises when it tops +90F here or elsewhere.
Terry, Here is the Loading Data on the .308 Win for a 200gr bullet using Varget from Hodgdon. As you can see their maximum is 42gr. http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/data/rifle
View attachment 1031098
I had read that previously. Every listed load that I've seen with Varget and the 200.20x's are substantially higher. Seems the velocity node that everyone is landing on is 2625ish to 2650ish. Obviously not going to happen with 42.0.
Here is the Loading Data on the .308 Win for a 200gr bullet using Varget from Hodgdon. As you can see their maximum is 42gr.
And that might actually mean something if the bullet they were using had something besides diameter & weight in common with the bullet under discussion.
Maybe this from Berger will be more help.
Not really. Berger's load manual is one of the more laughable ones out there in my opinion - 200 Hybrid seated to 2.810", really? They continue the same nit-wittery with the 230 Hybrid. Pretty much zero use as a reference for heavy bullets. Good supplementary articles, though. Apologies to the folks at Berger, but that's the way I see it. If Sierra can figure out how to get their lawyers to let them publish 'target bolt-gun only' loads for the specialty LR bullets, Berger can too.
That said, I understand what I think you're trying to get at - start low, work up for *your* gun, and don't get hung up on what 'everybody else' is *saying* they're getting. *Especially* for a novice hand loader, even if you have the 'best' tools available to you.
The standard advice of knock at least 10% off suggested loads to start with is not a bad practice for newbies.
Do I do it with a .308 with bullets and powders I'm familiar with? Not really - but I've been loading that particular cartridge at 'competitive' performance levels for 10+ years, and probably (well) north of 20k rounds - I have a pretty good idea what to expect.
Do I do that when I start out with a cartridge I'm not familiar with, or a new powder that I have no real experience with? Oh hell yes.
I'll admit, it pains me a little to do so, but I still have all 10 fingers and both eye balls, and plan to keep them for a long time to come, so yes, I back off the load and work up, no short cuts.
Terry,
Congrats on the shooting, very nice for your first match. The room is looking fantastic. I love the Eagle Flag that you friend made for you. Keep up the reports, enjoy seeing your room develop.
My thoughts also,when I saw the lam going on.Terry,
Very nice shop and layout. Your Bessey clamp collection is quite impressive. For some reason I see a stock build in you near future. As a wood tinkerer my self I enjoyed the post.
Thanks for sharing,
Ryan
Nice bench, i hang benches from e2re2e49i wall studs. Less material and unobstructec access below. Bench depth 20".I have never reloaded in my life. After buying an F-T/R .308 I had to take the plunge. I've purchased quite a bit of equipment that needs a home so a reloading bench is next on my project list. Figured I'd document the build. Hopefully some useful information will be shared. It's really more than just reloading bench. I'm planning on doing general gun work on it as well. I'm overtaking a spare bedroom to house the bench, safes etc... More on that later.
I've saved about a bazillion pics of reloading benches and benches in general and I've based my design on those along with input from regular woodworking benches and such. I have a pretty nice woodworking shop at my house so milling lumber etc.. is no issue. The bench will be built from regular construction lumber that I bought a Lowes along with 3/4" plywood, mdf and melamine.
No formal drawings. I'm working from my usual hand scrawled diagrams. Bench top has a finished size of 80x30. The work surface will be 3/4" almond colored melamine with 2 layers of 3/4" mdf glued and screwed together underneath it. The 3rd layer is just around the edge to support the edge banding. Completed top will be edge banded with 1 1/4" x 2 1/2" pine. The base is 68" x 22" and 35" tall made from more construction lumber milled to 1 1/4" thickness.
I've used lots of construction lumber for such projects before and I've learned to buy oversize and mill to finish widths. Here are the leg parts milled and cut to rough dimensions. These will be finished to 3 3/4" x 3 3/4".
And the glue ups.
Next was the milling and cutting to rough dimensions of the base parts.
I've also learned that these pieces are likey to warp and/or twist so I stack and weight them until I'm ready to continue.
Next is cutting the sheet goods for the top. I'm very blessed to have a nice table saw with Exactor sliding table for such. I also have my shop arranged so that full sheets are supported by benches on both sides of the table saw. Makes working with full sheets by myself a breeze.
Also in the lessons learned category is the way I make the sandwich of sheet goods for the top. I cut the center layer of mdf to perfect dimensions and then use my router with a flush trim bit to size the top layer that I've cut 1/4" oversize. Very difficult to screw the layers together perfectly if they are all cut to exact size and the flush trim bit produces a perfect edge on the melamine.
Hope someone enjoys the pics and the process. I'll post more as I go.