Bore "Conditioner" after Cleaning

[rudysts]

K22 -

Howdy !

" Montana Extreme Bore Conditioner "


With regards,
357Mag

+1

 

[hogpatrol]

Hoppe's #9.

Joe, Don't you use olive oil? Virgin, of course.

 

[Ggmac]

I'm glad WD -40 has worked for some . WD = water displacement , formula # 40 . I tried that down here , actually tested many oils for preventing rust , 10-12 polished tool steel 2" flat stock , apply oils , wait till rust shows . All this was in my unaircond garage , we'll let me say I no longer use WD -40 unless I need to dry out some distributor caps .
Corrosion pro was on top , still going after 1 year , no rust . But it's expensive and messy . Marvel , atf was at about the same 8 months 2 weeks .
Repeated tests in my air conditioned shop , about all are still showing no rust ( just my finger prints showed rust ) on motor oil , WD , and 2 more I can't remember now .

 

[barefooter56]

After cleaning with cooper solvent and dry patching, what do you guys recommend as a bore "conditioner" to remove any residual traces of solvent, as rust prevention and to condition the bore for the next match / string of shots. (Not speaking here of long term storage).

Do you dry patch the "conditioner" out before shooting?

K22,
Montana extreme Bore Conditioning oil for short term storage. TM Bore oil for long term. Its a "WAY" and stays put very well. No varnish or smell.

 

[dewey7271]

I just use one patch of kroil and chase with one dry patch.

+1

 

[bobinpa]

I'm glad WD -40 has worked for some . WD = water displacement , formula # 40 . I tried that down here , actually tested many oils for preventing rust , 10-12 polished tool steel 2" flat stock , apply oils , wait till rust shows . All this was in my unaircond garage , we'll let me say I no longer use WD -40 unless I need to dry out some distributor caps .
Corrosion pro was on top , still going after 1 year , no rust . But it's expensive and messy . Marvel , atf was at about the same 8 months 2 weeks .
Repeated tests in my air conditioned shop , about all are still showing no rust ( just my finger prints showed rust ) on motor oil , WD , and 2 more I can't remember now .

I never ever use WD-40 on a firearm, especially if it is blued. WD-40 inhibits and removes rust. Bluing is a form of rust and WD-40 will remove it, over time. If you don't believe me, go spray some WD-40 on a nicely blued firearm and wipe it with a clean white rag. The rag will get a trace of rust color on it...... because it just removed a trace of your bluing. A few years of that and your bluing gets thin. WD-40 also varnishes pretty bad.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Ive never found a use for wd40 myself. Everything it advertises that it does other products do it better

 

[Joe Salt]

hogpatrol You haven't been paying attention, the Olive oil is for the bolt body. I use Kroil in the bore!

Joe Salt

 

[Jose_Luis_G]

Balllistol : http://www.ballistol.com/
I can usually get my first clean shot after running the oil out with one stab patch into the group.

I also use Ballistol but in a slightly different way.
Last product after cleaning and then a quick pass with a loose patch to remove the excess.
Store the gun until the next shooting session and start shooting without removing the residuals fo Ballistol.
This has two advantages:
- It reduces the copper fouling, as the bullet does not find an extremely dry, clean barrel.
- The first shot goes to the same place where the last session's shots were grouping. No changes in the point of impact, even in the first shot.

VERY IMPORTANT:
The use of any other oil in the way this is recommended, may not give the same results.
If you use any oil coming from DISTILLED PETROLEUM, will probably bring an HERNIATION in the barrel due to DIESEL effect.
The above does not happen with Ballistol presence (traces) in the barrel. It has been widely proven that its use is safe and without adverse comsequences.

 

[1shot]

WD-40 is my friend, but not the way you think. I have had more people than I can count bring all manner of firearms to my place and I hear "It pumps really stiff", "my auto loader doesn't eject the cases all the time and jams up". I tell them to leave it and pick it up in a week. The firearm gets good cleaning to remove all the gunk from WD-40 followed by a light lube and all is good. The customer think I worked some kind of voodoo magic, an leaves happy as a clam.
Lloyd

 

[Nude nut]

I also use Ballistol but in a slightly different way.
Last product after cleaning and then a quick pass with a loose patch to remove the excess.
Store the gun until the next shooting session and start shooting without removing the residuals fo Ballistol.
This has two advantages:
- It reduces the copper fouling, as the bullet does not find an extremely dry, clean barrel.
- The first shot goes to the same place where the last session's shots were grouping. No changes in the point of impact, even in the first shot.

Same results for me aswell and has many other uses aswell great for removing carbon on the outside of case necks and the ducks guts for removing bugs of the front of your car I spray it or wipe it on before I go into town go through carwash not bit of bug guts left.I could ramble on for ages about the uses for this stuff been using it for years.

Cheers Trev.

 

[hogpatrol]

hogpatrol You haven't been paying attention, the Olive oil is for the bolt body. I use Kroil in the bore!

Joe Salt

That's it! Thanks.

 

[jonbearman]

I like marvel mystery oil as it is cheap for a quart and it lasts a long long long time.

 

[Mr Underbridge]

I push a wet patch of CLP through before storage. When I take it out I clean it out so its dry.
Never gave it much thought honestly. As long as the inside surface is covered with some oily stuff and it stays on.

 

[K22]

Thanks to all who replied. I'm considering using the Montana extreme product as a final bore treatment after cleaning.

I've been using WD-40. My rifles smith tells me that it's the worse stuff to use in the bore - I've been using it for 40 years with no ill affects that I could determine but... On the other hand maybe "if it ain't broke don't fix it" applies here.

P.S. Long story why this became a side issue - has to do with a rebarreled rifle accuracy problems that developed after about 100 rounds and the rifle smith's recommendations.

 

[dreever]

After cleaning with cooper solvent and dry patching, what do you guys recommend as a bore "conditioner" to remove any residual traces of solvent, as rust prevention and to condition the bore for the next match / string of shots. (Not speaking here of long term storage).

Do you dry patch the "conditioner" out before shooting?

After cleaning I use Lock Eze liquid, not aerosol available at your friendly NAPA store. The carrier evaporates leaving the bore coated with graphite. I don't bother patching it out the next time I use the rifle and don't bother with fouling shots to settle the bore back in since the graphite is the same thing that's in powder.

Danny

 

[ShtrRdy]

It has been quite a few years since this thread was used but I had a question .

Have any of you used Montana X-Treme Bore Conditioner after cleaning the bore? Do you see any benefit in using the Bore Conditioner product?

 

[Rockchuck]

I clean with solvent then use alcohol 90% too get solvent out then dry out with patch then use montana bore conditioner run patch before next fouler

 

[K22]

Just for the record, I stopped using aggressive copper removing solvents and WD 40 as an after-cleaning bore conditioner several years ago.

These products became especially problematic for me as I began factory barrel replacements with Douglas match barrels in pursuit of sub 1 moa accuracy goals.

 

[Rat Rifle]

Just for the record, I stopped using aggressive copper removing solvents and WD 40 as an after-cleaning bore conditioner several years ago.

These products became especially problematic for me as I began factory barrel replacements with Douglas match barrels in pursuit of sub 1 moa accuracy goals.

Problematic in what way ? And what was the solution ?
Thanks