Wipe Out and rust??

[swd]

Anyone ever have a problem with Wipe Out causing rust? I’m doing a little work on a friends Gunwerks action. He had been cleaning the barrel with Wipe Out and had it foam everywhere one or twice. Now the stainless action has rust spot inside the rails.

 

[FatBoy]

I had it etch the throat in a Krieger barrel and a stainless Brownells barrel extension. The extension looks like pitting. The throat just looks dark, but I can't do a proper lead check on it anymore. (6BR with 800-850 rounds on it over 2 years, 29.5gr Varget) Neither of my issues look like that at all.

I love the stuff, and have three or four cans of it sitting on shelf collecting dust.

 

[Jay Christopherson]

I had one instance of an issue with rust w/ Wipe Out, usng an old can that was near dregs. Tossed it, grabbed a new can, and never had an issue since.

 

[Prose]

It's water based isn't it? Gotta oil it despite the "short term rust inhibitor"

 

[swd]

I don’t know for sure the Wipe Out caused it, but it’s pretty much all he used on it. I took it apart and gave it a fresh bead blast. Good as new now. I’ll let him know it’s water based.

 

[joshb]

I’ll leave it in a barrel for a while, sometimes overnight, but after a good scrubbing I go old school. I give it another good scrubbing with plenty of Hoppes #9 and a last patch of oil. It’s working so far. No rust or such.
Looking at the picture, it looks like the Wipe Out dried up on the surface into orangey gunk. Rust or gunk, that’s ugly. I hope you give your friend a refresher course on cleaning! I’d soak that trigger, too.

 

[Kracken McGraw]

That should sell some good bore guides.

 

[swd]

I’ve never used the stuff myself.

It was rust, it etched into the metal. He said the first time or two that he used it it foamed all over the action.

The trigger was gunked too, I already cleaned it. Lots of dirty gunk came out.

The rifle only has about 400 rounds through it and is less than a year old, argh..

 

[joshb]

Well that’s a shame, but good on you for helping him out. Christmas is around the corner. You know he needs a Bore guide!

 

[DukeDuke]

Sorry this happened to your friend! I've used wipe out for a loooong time, not the foam one. In my case it is a great cleaner, if not the best, would always follow with Hoppe's # 9 and grease.

 

[DennisH]

I also leave it in the bore overnight using a chamber plug.

I also use "foam" at times.

I thoroughly clean it with "break cleaner" the next day, I spray "Brake Free" abundantly in the chamber and bore, and always patch the bore to wipe out excess.

The day of the shoot/match, I thoroughly wipe off all excess, and jag the bore. 3 patches produces a white patch.

I have never had a problem, and love the product!

PS: And I "NEVER" use brushes when cleaning! I have "NEVER" had a carbon issue!

 

[swd]

Well that’s a shame, but good on you for helping him out. Christmas is around the corner. You know he needs a Bore guide!

Free bead blast, bedding and breech, chamber and crown on a new barrel. The bore guide is on him, lol.

 

[KMart]

Free bead blast, bedding and breech, chamber and crown on a new barrel. The bore guide is on him, lol.

Priceless!!!!

 

[paperpuncher]

I have used the outers foaming bore cleaner, I always follow it with dry patches then de greaser and light oil. I have noticed rust spots on my on my bolt lugs and the end of the action screw as well as some in the bolt lug recesses. I never paid particular attn to getting the bore cleaner out of the lug recess but I do now.

 

[natdscott]

I've used WipeOut for about 10 years on everything from rimfire pistols to CM competition rifles and BP muzzleloaders. Never an issue.

 

[Rsadams]

When using a foaming bore cleaner , be sure and completely re-lube the gun and leave the chamber and bore oiled... That foam gets everywhere if you're not careful , even when you are careful , whatever it touches needs oil , it's in the directions for the barrel... Same applies to any metal....

 

[AckleymanII]

I also leave it in the bore overnight using a chamber plug.

I also use "foam" at times.

I thoroughly clean it with "break cleaner" the next day, I spray "Brake Free" abundantly in the chamber and bore, and always patch the bore to wipe out excess.

The day of the shoot/match, I thoroughly wipe off all excess, and jag the bore. 3 patches produces a white patch.

I have never had a problem, and love the product!

PS: And I "NEVER" use brushes when cleaning! I have "NEVER" had a carbon issue!

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the above tool tells me that Wipe out foam, used with accelerator, Patch out with Accelerator, Tactical has NEVER removed carbon from my barrels with patches only. Brushing with bronze bristle brushes with the above will remove the carbon. So, brushes do the work.

I help half a dozen guys a year salvage their barrels to the point where JB, Issio, and Flitz used on good bronze bristle brushes will not even cut through the carbon from using Wipe Out only with patches. When done cleaning with Wipe out, I simply push a couple of patches of lighter fluid down the bore.

Here is my collection of wipe out, and the product works extremely well in removing copper, and with good bronze bristle brushes will remove carbon.

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I have my own private rifle range, and shoot out of a heated/AC house. We shoot all year, all kinds of weather. Since I am not sitting outside in the weather, reload right behind the shooting bench, I probably shoot more than most. One thing I have learned, a very clean barrel is a good thing to keep the pipe running at it's best. Don't expect a barrel to shoot consistently if it is powder fouled from breach to muzzle, or the grooves are Black from carbon fouling, the entire length of the barrel.

I will usually shoot 30-40 rounds in between cleanings on small and mid size cases, less on magnums.

I am always looking for a better mouse trap when it comes to cleaning a rifle barrel.

It is all to obvious that MANY that make comments on how they clean their barrels do not have a bore scope and judge their barrel's condition on how clean the patches are. Cooked on hard carbon does not leave a trace on a lilly white patch.

I make various concoctions of Honing oil and various grades of Al Oxide to get out that hard baked on carbon. I have had good success with soaking a barrel in a super penetrating oil for week intervals, then immediately brushing, then plug and re-soak again. I use the oil soaking after brushing with JB, Issio, and Flitz has failed to remove the carbon on a brush, and with 0000 steel wool wrapped in a brush.

When the penetrating oil soaking has reached it's limit of success, then it is time for a more serious abrasive, Al Oxide on tight fitting patches, then a brush.

If this does not get the carbon out, the next step is a last ditch effort, hail mary scrubbing with Silicone carbide(grade 600& 800) from Brownells.

 

[Kracken McGraw]

Ackleyman thanks for generously sharing your findings. Does the follow up patches of lighter fluid have some kind of lubricant in them to protect from rust? Also could you ever get the carbon out of these other guys barrels after they tried brushing with Iosso paste?
Thanks Mark.

 

[Forum Boss]

I have used Wipe-Out foam for years. Very effective and it has significantly reduced the amount of brushing I do. I apply after some 4-5 wet patches with a solvent. Foam once, wait 20 minutes, then foam a second time. Plug muzzle and chamber, drive home from range. Run dry patches through bore after 3 hours.

If gun will not be used for more than 3 weeks I will run some Eezox on patch through bore. NEVER had issue with rust. NEVER. But I do use a good fitting bore guide and clean out chamber after application.

I know a lot of guys combine Wipe-Out with various other solvents and bore treatments. You may need to consider interaction.

 

[AckleymanII]

Ackleyman thanks for generously sharing your findings. Does the follow up patches of lighter fluid have some kind of lubricant in them to protect from rust? Also could you ever get the carbon out of these other guys barrels after they tried brushing with Iosso paste?
Thanks Mark.

Mark, I have not had rust in my barrels. If you feel froggy about rust, a patch with a spot of very thin oil on a punch type jag/patch would not hurt any.

In all the cases were carbon was really caked on, it took a regiment of Al Oxide used with bronze bristle brushes to get the carbon out. There maybe great advantages in pushing some kind of solvent or penetrating oil through a bore just as you get through shooting as the heat will accelerate the reaction while the carbon is still warm. This does create a problem with solvent running out the muzzle and into the action/trigger group. Most hardware stores sell small corks in the nuts and bolts sections, and Chamber plugs are available.

ON the hard carbon fouled barrels, I tried soaking, then brushing with these penetrating oils:

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this penetrating oil I feel is the best for this application:

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There is a different cleaning regiments required for a 6 BR, 22/243 AI, and 7 STW. I can only imagine the requirements for a 338 lapua and a 50 BMG target rifles.

Recently, I had an experience with a new barrel. I fire formed 135 cases to 6 Dasher using 13g of Bullseye and cream of wheat. I shot 15 rounds at a time, let the barrel cool, then fired another 15 rounds. I was doing load development on another 6 Dasher while I was fire forming loads for another dasher. I had one heck of a time getting that barrel clean after firing those 135 fire forming loads.