Wipe Out and rust??

[AckleymanII]

"Recently, I had an experience with a new barrel. I fire formed 135 cases to 6 Dasher using 13g of Bullseye and cream of wheat. I shot 15 rounds at a time, let the barrel cool, then fired another 15 rounds. I was doing load development on another 6 Dasher while I was fire forming loads for another dasher. I had one heck of a time getting that barrel clean after firing those 135 fire forming loads."

Answer: Bullseye burns very hot. Run 4 wet patches of Free all down the bore after 25 fire forming loads, let the barrel cool. Leaving the bore slightly wet with one patch of Free All greatly diminishes the carbon build up. Lock Eze also helps on the carbon build up fire forming. I Brush after 50 fire forming loads, wet patch out with Free All.

 

[FNSafari]

Anyone ever have a problem with Wipe Out causing rust? I’m doing a little work on a friends Gunwerks action. He had been cleaning the barrel with Wipe Out and had it foam everywhere one or twice. Now the stainless action has rust spot inside the rails.

I haven't had any issues. I don't leave it for hours and hours, no need to imo. When dried out with patches I make sure I put light oil into the barrel with a couple of patches before I put the rifle away.

 

[Texas Solo]

I use WipeOut exclusively. Sinclair bore guide allows me to use a generous amount. After enough passes to get the powder fouling out, I dump a lot of Wipe Out in the bore guide and run a wet patch through. Then it sits for about 4 hours before being dry patched.
When I had some chamber work done by Speedy Gonzalez, he asked what my routine was, because at 1500rds he said my bore looked like new.

 

[jackson1]

I am a satisfied customer of Wipe Out. Use it on all my barrels. Always finish with Kriol in the barrel and swab the chamber. Also always use a bore guide.

 

[snert]

I posted a thread regarding wipe out a few months ago. I had what I thought to be a PILE of rust in a 7mm MAg after I left it overnight (plus) with WO in it. After some time I think I was convinced that the "rust" was actually carbon and copper which showed as brown on the patches. (at least I think I am convinced). However, I have checked several of my barrels and there are "mystery" blobs of brown in my 222 and my 22-250 stainless barrels. I have gone back to Butches and a brush for most of my cleaning, and WO only after a little range trip, when no soaking is required. Just me...

 

[JSH]

I don’t usually respond to dated threads, I have been using WO before the OP posted this years ago. I used it in anything that had a jacketed bullet in it, SS and CM barrels never had a rust issue. It may stain if not removed from some surfaces. I believe that warning is on the instructions, who reads those.

 

[K22]

Never used the product so I can't comment on it.

However, no matter which solvent I use, I always run two very LIGHTLY coated patches of Hoppe's gun oil down the bore. I also rotate another very LIGHTLY coated patch around the chamber and along the rails.

Before shooting, I run a dry patch down the bore and around the chamber and rails.

This seems to work quite well preventing the formation of any rust, even with water-based solvents such as Bore Tech although Bore Tech claims their solvent will not cause rust, I still use the oil treatment.

PS: I've tried a number of rust preventative products over the past 50 years or so but for me, nothing beats old Hoppe's gun oil which is nothing more than mineral oil. It also works great on the surfaces using a lightly saturated cotton flannel cloth - much superior to any silicon cloth and a lot cheaper.