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Wipe-Out

Saw in the Daily Bulletin about the new Wipe-Out tube & breech plug and thought I’d share my method of using Wipe-Out.

First I insert a bore guide with o-ring like this one from Sinclair:
http://www.sinclairintl.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=CPCRGSR&item=03-9XX&type=store

then give the muzzle a shot of foam, once it starts to come out the muzzle end I place my finger over the crown which forces the expanding foam to the breech end, once the foam starts to come out the end of the bore guide you remove your finger from the muzzle, remove the bore guide, stuff a paper towel into the chamber, & let it soak. No solvent running out & into the action.

Bill
 
tripcrow--You have a good idea there, right up to the point where you pulled out the rod guide. I leave my rod guide in the rifle and plug the muzzle end of the barrel with a small cork and also plug the end of the rod guide with a cork. That way, I don't have to mess around with shoving paper towel or anything else into the action. Between the time you remove the bore guide and get the paper towel in the chamber, I'd suspect some of the foam will have expanded into the chamber and in a worst-case scenario, possibly some might get into the action. The bore guide keeps the Wipe-Out, Patch-Out, or whatever out of the action and you don't have to mess around trying to hurry and get a paper towel in there to block the liquid/foam from your action. JMHO

I also turn my rifle 180º in my rifle vise for a second soaking. I am guessing the foam/suds pretty much sinks to the bottom of the barrel once it liquifies as it sits in the barrel. Again, a guess on my part, the top part of the barrel doesn't get as much "soaking" as the bottom half.
 
Yes, after a few minutes the foam liquifies and probably does collect on the bottom half of the bore.

So, it's a smart idea to rotate the barrel.

My current method is to insert tight-fitting bore guide and spray from muzzle until I see a little bit of white foam come out the end of the guide. That's a little wasteful compared to using the breech plug and spraying from breech to muzzle. But it does make it easy to finish off the job with patches since the bore guide is already in the rifle. I like to run 3-4 solvent-wetted patches through the bore before applying Wipe-Out.
 
Editor in Chief--If you haven't tried the Patch-Out product, I'd suggest you give it a try. You can use the Accelerate product like you might do with Wipe-Out, but the Patch-Out product is applied with a patch. If you short stroke the wet patch up and down the bore, you will get it to foam similar to Wipe-Out, but without the wasted product and mess with the spary in stuff. I think it is every bit as effective as Wipe-Out with less mess.
 
I use the Sinclair delrin bore guide, but took mine in to work and used a 3/8" drill bit to countersink a short distance inside the rear. Then the 1/4" i.d.X 3/8"o.d. tubing fits nice and snug. I spray the Wipe Out in a little at a time til it starts coming out, then I leave the barrel pointed up a bit with the tube still in to seal the solvent from leaking in to the action. Rotate from time to time, and squirt more occasionally and it works like a charm for me with little mess.

Eric
 
I concur with Silverfox about using Patchout and accelerator. I also use Carbout first to get the powder fouling out of the way then Accelerator and Patchout. Let sit for about an hour and check for copper. I use an Ivy rod with a Tipton nickel plated jag for the last step so I don't get any false readings from the jag. I use Wipeout about every 400 rounds for an overnight soak. This regimen seems to work out fine. I do use a bore brush with the Carbout, but just to agitate it a bit.

My two cents,

Phasor
 

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