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Will a Green Mountain fix my Savage MKii

I bought a Savage MKii with a heavy varmint barrel on it, intending to use it as a PRS training rifle for practicing out of position stuff. I put it in a Tacticool stock and mounted a vortex Razor scope. At 60yds from a bench, with various "match" ammo's, the best groups are well over an 1.5", and very inconsistent. I was hoping to be able to shoot consistent 1/2" groups with it at that range, and I don't think any amount of tuning is going to get it there. I'm tempted to just order a Green Mountain blank and a reamer and be done with it. It sounds like a fun project anyway. Can I expect better accuracy than that from cheap blank?

Edit. I've already checked the obvious stuff. Scopes tight, barrels floated, etc.
I routinely shoot 1/4moa at 400yds with the big rifles. It ain't me.
I really just need to be able to hit a quarter at 60yds, knowing if I missed, it was because my position was wobbly, or I yanked the trigger.
I do my own smithing work on the centerfires, I've just never messed with a rimfire.
 
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I have a couple of them,and they shoot great .I have also owned one I could never get to shoot . I think it's luck of the draw with these . Not sure if a barrel is the answer, would you thread it or stay with just a pin ?
 
I have a couple of them,and they shoot great .I have also owned one I could never get to shoot . I think it's luck of the draw with these . Not sure if a barrel is the answer, would you thread it or stay with just a pin ?
I'd probably thread it if I thought the pin setup wasn't very good once I got it apart. Is there a better blank available? I really don't want to spend $350 for a Bartlein or something like that.
 
I've rechambered and set back a few Mark II. Used GM blanks too. IMO,The biggest thing you can do to any rimfire to get the most accuracy out of it is set the chamber up so the bullets are sent home in the lands a good .100" when the bolt is closed. For the Mark II, you can pull the barrel and just face off the chamber end until you that result. I often have to face off .175" to do that. Refile the extractor grooves in and glue the barrel back in with Loctite 638 and you'll be good. Often times, they will shoot with most high end rimfires when you do that to them. Heck, my old man used his to beat up on a few Vudoo's and many Annie's in a 200 yd steel match just a couple of weeks back-Stock Mark II with the chamber shortened to put the bullet in the lands. I've also got a Manson Match RF reamer that I've used to do a few GM blanks and they work really well.
 
I have had great luck with green mountain barrels i 10/22s. How does the bore look, also there can be loose spots in those savage bores.
 
That was actually the only thing I was going to check before this barrel came off. The action really felt like it was being twisted when I put it in the Boyds. I'll report back.
Definitely worth a try before you buy anything else.... Nothing is perfect everytime... Would be what I do before making a decision...
 
I put it back in the factory stock and got excited when the first 4rnds of Federal "match" all touched at 60yds, but then the fifth shot went 1.5" high and right. Another one went left, and a few more went back in the original group. 10rnds of CCI minimags were well over 2" without any discernable pattern.
 
I believe you have a Ignition issue--my suggestion is have the headspace checked and make sure the bolt especially the firing pin area are free of debris and not binding

Good Luck

Jim
 
I bought a Savage MKii with a heavy varmint barrel on it, intending to use it as a PRS training rifle for practicing out of position stuff. I put it in a Tacticool stock and mounted a vortex Razor scope. At 60yds from a bench, with various "match" ammo's, the best groups are well over an 1.5", and very inconsistent. I was hoping to be able to shoot consistent 1/2" groups with it at that range, and I don't think any amount of tuning is going to get it there. I'm tempted to just order a Green Mountain blank and a reamer and be done with it. It sounds like a fun project anyway. Can I expect better accuracy than that from cheap blank?

Edit. I've already checked the obvious stuff. Scopes tight, barrels floated, etc.
I routinely shoot 1/4moa at 400yds with the big rifles. It ain't me.
I really just need to be able to hit a quarter at 60yds, knowing if I missed, it was because my position was wobbly, or I yanked the trigger.
I do my own smithing work on the centerfires, I've just never messed with a rimfire.
Green mountain barrels are good . Get and use a Winchester 52 reamer .
I've got and tried about 9-10 , the win 52 engraves almost all 40 gr ammo .
 
I put it back in the factory stock and got excited when the first 4rnds of Federal "match" all touched at 60yds, but then the fifth shot went 1.5" high and right. Another one went left, and a few more went back in the original group. 10rnds of CCI minimags were well over 2" without any discernable pattern.
That sucks , was everything still torqued up properly when you got home..? Seems almost like something is moving...
 
That sucks , was everything still torqued up properly when you got home..? Seems almost like something is moving...
I'm walking right outside the door to shoot. I tried a couple different torques, without much change. The barrels in the lathe now. It took .090 cut to touch bullet to lands. I just need to figure out how much to engrave them now.
 
I wouldn't dick with a Mark II.

I know of a gentleman who spent TONS of money on a couple of them to try to get them to shoot even with a CZ or Annie 64. Never got it done.

But if you're dead set on it, I highly recommend JGS Reamer's ".22LR JGS Match". It is a little shorter than a Bentz, and with corrected leade angle, but will still easily extract. The Shilen Ratchet I used it in is extremely accurate.

-Nate
 
Every rimfire, even same exact model, may very well shoot very well or horribly.

It is the luck of the draw and the quest to fix something that can't be fixed is sometimes an ever elusive task.

There is a huge difference in group size, even at 50 yards, depending on your ammo. The only way to know is to buy a few hundred rounds the really top shelf stuff, start with a clean barrel and start shooting your groups after how ever many fouling shots you need (which also varies from rifle to rifle). THEN, measure your groups and see how much less than a US quarter you shoot. Start over with your original stock and recommended torque settings for your action screws. As to it shooting great after 4 rounds, then not, unless you cleaned the barrel before ammo change, you are still shooting the mixture of the old ammo lube and the lube on the mini mags. I once thought I had an epiphany after I tried some Federal Automatch after a barrel dirty from Wolf Match Extra ............ until the old lube burned off.
 

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