fix 10/22 from stovepiping

[j_22250]

can anyone help me out???

here is what i got and tried:

houge stock
green mountain barrel
cleaned it and keep it cleand..no help.
claw extractor and spring(it's in there straight too)
new mag
cci mini mag ammo is what i shoot, but it jams jst as much as cheaper stuff...

should i try a new ejector??? i'm guessing so, but everything i read says to change extractor and that would fix it. btw, i never really had too many probs till i put the barrel on which then i tried the exctractor next....i haven't played with this thing in a while for this reason, but would like to get it figured out so's i can play with it more.

 

[CanusLatransSnpr]

This is just a shot in the dark but, possibly the barrel is not headspaced properly to allow the extractor to get a good grip on the case head. Another thing could be the barrel has a really tight chamber, not length ways but diameter, making for hard extraction. I have an old Marlin Model 60 that won't shoot any ammunition, other than CCI, without jamming. Another thing to keep an eye on is not over oil the action. I don't know why but autoloaders like it kind of dry.

Mike

 

[j_22250]

i put a power custom titanium claw extractor on it...it falls in the groove on the barrel perfect...as far the chamber goes it does have a match chamber....i haven't ever tried any match ammo, but i do have less jams with mini mags....since the extractor pulls the shells out fine i jst figured i needed a hotter round so it kicks out if it is sticking a little. for that same reason i can' t shoot stingers/quick shoks or any longer rounds with mopowa.

 

[jerrschmitt]

It's not the extractor. The 10-22 is a simple blow back design and works just fine without an extractor. The main purpose of the extractor is to remove an unfired round. If you remove the operating rod and separate the spring you can polish the spring guide. Then lube the action with Silicone spray. Usually, that takes care of the problem.
Check http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/index.php
There are hundred of posts on this problem

 

[j_22250]

i'm pretty familar on how semi's work, and usually this prob is caused by ejector or too stiff an extractor spring, but i replaced the extractor cuz what i had read over on rimfire central.

i don't remeber ever being able to remove the spring....do you jst compress it and work around it??? there is also some play w/ the rod and handle....i can't see how it stays in there straight when the bolt is working. the rod is pretty much polished tho i can't count how many rnds i've put thru this gun back in my younger days. should i jst get a new rod/spring handle?

what other parts should i stick in there.

 

[RichinKansas]

Have you tried putting the original barrel back on? That might give an idea if it is the match chamber that doesn't agree with the non-match ammo you are using.

 

[j_22250]

yeah tht's gonna be my next process of elimination....i always jst figured the mini mags were jst as good green tags as far the cases go anyways.and with more power than the bulk paks. which should allow the bolt to cycle faster causing the spent case to hit the ejector harder....i jst got thru scrubbing this bad boy down and took it completly apart except for the hammer and rod/spring/handle and trigger group...the excractor holds a shell perfectly and there is not too much spring tension or visable wear on the ejector...overall it was not too dirty, but it did have a little crud built up on the bolt that i was not able to see or get too until it was fully disasembled today....hopefully that will do the trick and i can go see how far off the scope is.

thanks for the info guys...i'll keep you posted, but for the mean time keep it comming.

 

[markr]

You could always try some real match ammo...after all you bought the barrel with a match chamber. There is no other reason for getting a match chamber.
Sort of like putting 87 octane in you Shelby Cobra...

 

[Travelor]

First a little information about how the Ruger works.

The fired case is moved the rear while in contact with the bot face by the gases and recoil from the round being fired. When the ejector is hit by the case in this rearward movement, the ejector should hold it in place allowing the case to be pivoted to the right and out the ejection port. If you look at the ejector it is only slightly to the left of center under that bolt - the ejector needs to do its job by allowing a pivoting action.

My experience is that the factory extractor is soft wears and will eventualy cause the the guns to start jamming due to the round not being held at the time the ejector hits the case and thus not allowing the pivoting of the case from the action (ie stovepiping).

The cure for this is usually a new aftermarket extractor that has a nice hardened "claw" that is also slightly undercut, or slanted into the case body if looked at from above. This, in about 99% of the cases, cures the jamming instantly.

In some cases, the extractor spring has weakened over time and keeps the extractor from holding the case firmly at the time the ejector strikes the case, causing the same type of jam. This is why most after market extractors come with replacement springs.

In your case, I think the problem is carbon/gunk build up on the bolt face which is not allowing your extractor to fully hold the case rim. Try cleaning the bolt face and see if your jamming goes away. If not, replace the spring.

Happy New Year,
George

 

[j_22250]

back when i put this thing together there were only like 3 aftermarket barrels avaliable....one was carbon fiber, the other was buttler creek and finally green mountain. i think the carbon was shorther than what i wanted, buttler creek was out of stock and i liked the cool factor of the fluted barrel. i knew my ammo choices were gonna have to be better, but didn't figure this thing would only be restricted to jst match ammo....btw cci is good stuff. it shot like a champ before and when it started crapping out i change extractor/spring....i can't really remeber, but it got a thuro cleaning and proly had a few thousand rounds thru it...last time i shot it it was acting up a little, but it's been so long since i really shot it i couldn't rember. anyways i knew there would be some 10/22 guru's on here to help me out....still havne't got a chance to shoot it yet, but i should know if it's gonna work or not real soon.

 

[holstil]

I've had different barrels that I had to ad shim to due to the downward canting. One was a Volquartsen in a Volquartsen action. I used the optical tooling at my work to discover that there was significant angular misalignment. So much so that I had extracting problems. Even the cone system that Volquartsen makes did not cure this. I called them when I thought that either my Zeiss scope, had run out of elevation, which had worked fine on the gun before, or something was wrong with the barrel they sent me. They told me to send it to them for repair. I asked what they would do to it, shim it in front of the action? They said yes. I did it myself in 5 mins. Problem solved. It takes about .010" shim. You'll know if this is your problem if your scope is using up a lot of elevation adj. to get on target.
This may not be your problem, but I would check it out. I have fixed about a dozen other guns with after market barrels, no more feeding problems.
By the way, the number was .190" low at the tip of the barrel. 010" for 18" barrel? Not exact numbers, but close enough to work. There is some flexing going on some where I think. I never went back to check it once I learned it was OK.
Jim

 

[ChuckMiller]

The 2 10/22's I have stovepiped with low velocity/target ammo, seemed to handle the high vel stuff just fine. I had both of the bolts reworked by CPC and Volquartsen extractors installed and that was the end of the stovepiping. Not sure which or if both made a difference, it just stopped the problem with low vel ammo.

 

[CooperNV]

It's not the extractor. The 10-22 is a simple blow back design and works just fine without an extractor. The main purpose of the extractor is to remove an unfired round. If you remove the operating rod and separate the spring you can polish the spring guide. Then lube the action with Silicone spray. Usually, that takes care of the problem.
Check http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/index.php
There are hundred of posts on this problem

I Agree go to RFC, wealth of 10-22 info on there.