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Who doesnt anneal?

For those of you that don't anneal how are you getting consist shoulder bump? I have always had problems with all my competition rifles without annealing and getting consist shoulder set back. And I've tried a lot of presses and dies and they do matter, but I had so many different piles of sorted lengths and that lead me to annealing every time. Still cull brass for record pieces but not as many. I would love to stop and save the time so I really am interested in learning what the hell im doing wrong.
 
Hard to say whether you are doing anything wrong at all. I hand load for 7 rifles 4 are B R and 3 hunting rigs and I have never annealed at all. I do keep up with number of firings on each row of Lapua brass in my box of which some have 11 firings on them. I use a Rock Chucker press, Wilson & Redding dies. I believe my primer pockets will wear out ahead of any neck splitting and shoulder bump is within .0005 for either rifle.
 
I follow this practice every time I'm at the press.

When F/L sizing and running the brass into the die always pause at bottom of press handle movement for dwell time. App. 5 seconds. And never allow press handle to bump or bounce hard at end of stroke.
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When seating bullets always pause at bottom of press handle movement for dwell time. App. 5 seconds. And never allow press handle to bump or bounce hard at end of stoke.
 
For those of you that don't anneal how are you getting consist shoulder bump? I have always had problems with all my competition rifles without annealing and getting consist shoulder set back. And I've tried a lot of presses and dies and they do matter, but I had so many different piles of sorted lengths and that lead me to annealing every time. Still cull brass for record pieces but not as many. I would love to stop and save the time so I really am interested in learning what the hell im doing wrong.
How bad are your numbers?
 
Try to be very careful with the amount of lube on each case. Also I like the Hornady wax better. Its in the silver tin too. Thats a lot more than you should be seeing. Get you a Hood press, set it up for cam over and that wind should shrink to .001" if your lubing half way consistent. Also run the handle quick not slow.
 
There was 9 total, 3×3 powder ladder like we often do.....so it's THE 3 purples. But the point is a guy can go ahead and do the reloading room experiments, but should always value the targets higher.

Tom
How does that purple marker make them shoot better Tom?
 
Running warm to hot loads in a 223, I was getting some split necks, started annealing with a torch and drill, seem to get less. That's about all I can tell so far.
 
Try to be very careful with the amount of lube on each case. Also I like the Hornady wax better. Its in the silver tin too. Thats a lot more than you should be seeing. Get you a Hood press, set it up for cam over and that wind should shrink to .001" if your lubing half way consistent. Also run the handle quick not slow.
Ate you saying no dwell time in b the die??
 
For years I didn't anneal. I shoot a lot of 223 and one day I tried annealing with a torch. My groups became so much more consistent. I now have an Annie and anneal anything that is considered a precision reload.

It may not matter in some calibers but I definitely see a difference with 6mm and 223.
 
When you are measuring bump, do you measure it immediately off the press? Try measuring 24 to 48 hours later. Brass is alive. Annealing takes its testosterone away.....
 
AF63F7DD-3037-4C58-A415-5AF10C45FC44.jpegThe outer surface of these cases are not perfect, when I use a comparator that covers the shoulder I can get minor variations whereas if I use a comparator that datum’s off the mid shoulder ( in my case I use a Hornday .30 insert) and keep the mating surface clean the amount of variations is quite minimal.
 

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