When to anneal

[LVLAaron]

I'm curious if there's noticeable neck thickness change from the carbon. I just built a 30BR - I'm going to try this "no cleaning" thing on that.

 

[TTE]

If I were doing 50 or less, the second tumble would not happen. Load a minimum of 500 for varmints, tell me how that works for ya.

Through the years I have ended up with a number of tumblers. I can do 500 or more. When it's time for me to use 1 or more of them, they are set up on an outdoor type timer. And when I wake up they are all nice and shiny.

 

[drop_point]

thinking he meant isopropyl alcohol , not something ya would want to drink. morman ?

. Beer to drink!

 

[Webster]

Anneal two cases.
Put one in a tumbler for an hour.

Resize them both. Tell me they are the same.


@misser anything else you want to bicker about?

On Erik Cortina's video about annealing with a Bench Source Annealer, after annealing and testing bullet seating pressure, he saw a 20-40 lb variation among ten cases all annealed the same. Good enough for me.

 

[Redd]

Does it really matter? I annealing first then deprime, size clean sizing lube off with Sprayway glass cleaner like Paul (@boltfluter) said, BTW it does great! Then trim and load!

I deprime first, seems to keep more of the 'post fired' crud out of the annealer.

 

[Redd]

It seems the main point of Primal Right's video was that regardless of your order of operations, oxidation from annealing must be addressed before seating or else it results in uneven seating force from the rough oxidation.

Annealing, then using a nylon brush to smooth the oxidation, then seating, was a vast improvement compared to bare oxidation. This is what Erik Cortina does on his videos.

Tumbling after annealing, smoothed the oxidation inside necks and also added tumbling dust as a lubricant. This proved marginally better seating forces than just a nylon brush but most shooters can't outshoot the difference between the two methods.

What Greg did NOT test, was annealing, then adding lube (Neo, graphite, One Shot) directly to the rough oxidation, and then seating.

He also did not test the effect of annealing, and then just using a sizing mandrel (or expander ball) to smooth out the oxidation (no tumbling, no brush, no lube).

He also did NOT test annealing, wet tumbling, adding NeoLube, then seating.

Summary: Oxidation from annealing must be either brushed or tumbled or otherwise smoothed before seating.

Not if you mandrel size ...... poof oxidation gone!

 

[misser]

Look up galling.

Galling is a form of wear caused by adhesion between sliding surfaces. When a material galls, some of it is pulled with the contacting surface, especially if there is a large amount of force compressing the surfaces together.[1] Galling is caused by a combination of friction and adhesion between the surfaces, followed by slipping and tearing of crystal structure beneath the surface.[2] This will generally leave some material stuck or even friction welded to the adjacent surface, whereas the galled material may appear gouged with balled-up or torn lumps of material stuck to its surface.

galling can also be applied to those that only think they know what galling is
annoying; humiliating.annoying ,vexing, vexatious ,irritating, maddening

 

[LVLAaron]

You've got the irritating part solved.

 

[misser]

You've got the irritating part solved.

oh I recognise it when I see it

 

[Dave M.]

What you need, is your honey to process brass while you cut the grass.

That’s what we do at home Aaron. I cut the grass and the girlfriend anneals brass. We have 4 shooters in F class, so we process a lot of brass.
Dave

 

[Dave M.]

Drink the alcohol while the tumbler cleans the brass

Booooo, drink a whiskey while I admire the seasoned patina I’ve created with my 22 times fired brass.
Dave

 

[drop_point]

Booooo, drink a whiskey while I admire the seasoned patina I’ve created with my 22 times fired brass.
Dave

HAHA I love it!

 

[LVLAaron]

That’s what we do at home Aaron. I cut the grass and the girlfriend anneals brass. We have 4 shooters in F class, so we process a lot of brass.
Dave

CUTTIN GRASS AND ANNEALIN BRASS

 

[RabbitSlayer]

Holy smokes this one went crazy. Can't remember if I replied yet or not.

Am I the only person who wet tumbles with no pins? I have never even owned the pins. Works great and leaves carbon in the neck.

At least a few top shooters on youtube have said they dont clean brass, including eric and I think it was Lou Murdica.

I started off using the order outlined by one of the people fclass john interviewed in reloading room confessions. He had mountains of metals, so I figured it was a good place to start. I have since made a few adjustments, and I am happy with the results on target and the chrono.

Deprime (cuz I want to inspect the case for damage during this step), AMP anneal, FLS with no expander, wet tumble with no pins lemishine and dawn 15 to 30 min to remove lube. Roll on a towel and let air dry. Dry graphite lube necks & mandrel, trim, chamfer, seat bullets.

I used to FLS, mandrel, then wet tumble. My ES improved when I switched to mandrel after tumble. Not sure if it was due to the necks not getting dinged during tumbling or graphite lube remaining in neck while seating or both.


I keep this with the brass and then with the loaded ammo.

 

[Webster]

Holy smokes this one went crazy. Can't remember if I replied yet or not.

Am I the only person who wet tumbles with no pins? I have never even owned the pins. Works great and leaves carbon in the neck.

At least a few top shooters on youtube have said they dont clean brass, including eric and I think it was Lou Murdica.

I started off using the order outlined by one of the people fclass john interviewed in reloading room confessions. He had mountains of metals, so I figured it was a good place to start. I have since made a few adjustments, and I am happy with the results on target and the chrono.

Deprime (cuz I want to inspect the case for damage during this step), AMP anneal, FLS with no expander, wet tumble with no pins lemishine and dawn 15 to 30 min to remove lube. Roll on a towel and let air dry. Dry graphite lube necks & mandrel, trim, chamfer, seat bullets.

I used to FLS, mandrel, then wet tumble. My ES improved when I switched to mandrel after tumble. Not sure if it was due to the necks not getting dinged during tumbling or graphite lube remaining in neck while seating or both.


I keep this with the brass and then with the loaded ammo.
View attachment 1572297

161 replies. Are we all disfunctional.

 

[Riesel]

Here's why I decap 1st.
Say you were out doing some testing and you had 1 or more rounds that needed to be pulled down for whatever reason, by decapping 1st its safe insurance that no live primer will be subject to go off unexpectedly.
I've also received brass second hand that had live primers on more than 1 occasion.

YUP, that'll wake you up ! ! !

 

[Longtrain]

Check a recent Hornady Podcast, they conclude after a few firings. I do my brass after each firing, am I wasting my time? I don’t think so and a lot of my Lapua Dasher brass has been around going on barrel number 3. Probably 20+ firings on them. I only bump them .001, they certainly aren’t stressed.

 

[Dave M.]

Holy smokes this one went crazy. Can't remember if I replied yet or not.

Am I the only person who wet tumbles with no pins? I have never even owned the pins. Works great and leaves carbon in the neck.

At least a few top shooters on youtube have said they dont clean brass, including eric and I think it was Lou Murdica.

I started off using the order outlined by one of the people fclass john interviewed in reloading room confessions. He had mountains of metals, so I figured it was a good place to start. I have since made a few adjustments, and I am happy with the results on target and the chrono.

Deprime (cuz I want to inspect the case for damage during this step), AMP anneal, FLS with no expander, wet tumble with no pins lemishine and dawn 15 to 30 min to remove lube. Roll on a towel and let air dry. Dry graphite lube necks & mandrel, trim, chamfer, seat bullets.

I used to FLS, mandrel, then wet tumble. My ES improved when I switched to mandrel after tumble. Not sure if it was due to the necks not getting dinged during tumbling or graphite lube remaining in neck while seating or both.


I keep this with the brass and then with the loaded ammo.
View attachment 1572297

This work in process card for brass is a great idea.

 

[searcher]

I anneal after firing, then tumble in walnut media, then size.
Sizing work hardens the brass - so to get the shoulders set properly, best to anneal before sizing.
The polish removes carbon from firing and annealing, as well as sizing lube at the same time.
Annealing with the carbon from firing still on the brass usually leaves darker marks on the necks than if tumbled before annealing - yet seems to just be a cosmetic issue. I've noticed no need to change the AMP setting - so I see no reason to tumble first.

 

[Wild Bill IV]

Wet tumble gives you a really clean/sticky surface, so I have to treat the insides of the necks with Neolube. If I didn't clean, or did a vibe tumble, I could skip some steps, I think.

Aaron:
Instead of allowing it to dry, drop the wet cases in isopropyl alcohol (dehydrator)! Allow the alcohol to vaporize and get that dry feeling instead of sticky!!! Try it on a few cases!!!!

Bill!!!