When to anneal?

[Down South]

Question #1: Do you anneal before resizing fired brass or after resizing? #2: If before resizing do you deprime and wash first?

My method after firing is deprime, clean brass, anneal (every firing), then FL size.

 

[onelastshot]

Great thread answers a lot of questions. My primary question is how often should you anneal; I know some people make it a habit to anneal after every firing I know it doesn't hurt the brass unless you over anneal. My question is how often is it necessary to anneal. I've heard after every 5-6 firings. I don't know, this annealing is new to me. I just want to anneal when it's really necessary.

 

[Fred B.]

Annealing is accumulative. I do it after every firing because it's easier.
I dont have time to keep track of firing and which cases annealed or not.

-Fred

 

[BenPerfected]

Annealing is accumulative. I do it after every firing because it's easier.
I dont have time to keep track of firing and which cases annealed or not.

-Fred

Fred, I was annealing after every firing but switched to annealing after every 3rd firing. Don't know if it really makes any difference but unless it can be measured, then I see no use in spending the extra time or $ to anneal more frequently.
Ben

 

[Fred B.]

It all depends on

Fred, I was annealing after every firing but switched to annealing after every 3rd firing. Don't know if it really makes any difference but unless it can be measured, then I see no use in spending the extra time or $ to anneal more frequently.
Ben

Ben,
It depends on how large you e gun neck is + time and temp.
Not from me, according to a well known metallurgist.
I can send you the article with great picture of ammo brass under microscope.
You can do every 3rd time. For me, it's just simpler. I dont have to keep brass separated or keep track of how many times fired.
Sure it takes time, but cost is nothing compared to $$ we spend on everything to squeeze the last bit of accuracy to compensate for the weakest link, us.

 

[fguffey]

He didn't have an infatuation about annealing, either

Again, I sort brass, when it comes time to determine if the case requires annealing I neck the case up, there is nothing cute about my neck-up process; I think nothing of going from to 308" to 35" or 338", and then there is 270 W or 280 Remington, going from 280 Remington to 35 Whelen is one big stretch. It is a waste of time to use cases that are not new or once fired cases but even then there are no promise when it comes to new nickeled cases, I have lost 50% when going from 280 Remington to 38 Whelen.

F. Guffey

 

[fguffey]

I know, none of that makes sense to a reloader; manufacturers do not sell cases to reloaders that know what they are doing, they sell one case for one chamber. That does not help me because I have at least 6 30/06 rifles with 5 different length chambers when measured from the shoulder to the bolt face. The problem for most reloaders is making a case longer from the shoulder to the case head; problem? Not for me, I find cases that are too long from the shoulder to the case head. The 280 Remington is .041" longer than the 30/06 from the shoulder to the case head than, wioth .041" how can a reloader )that knows what he is doing) miss. Again, I have one 30/06 chamber that is .016" longer than a minimum length/full length sized case; when sizing 280 cases I shorten the distance from the shoulder to the case head by .014", that gives me the magic .002" clearance.

And then there are those chambers that are just long, for those chambers I have purchased cases from firing ranges, I have purchases as many as 400 30/06 for 8 cents each with a bonus of 10 cases for every 100 just in cases there is something wrong with them. I measure the cases at the range before purchasing, my favorite fired case has an additional length of .008" between the shoulder to the case head. When sizing theses cases for my long chambers I adjust the die off the shell holder to prevent my full length sizing die from full length sizing. I have never mastered the art of moving the shoulder back like all other reloaders; I find it impossible to move the shoulder back with a die that has full length body support. Reloaders tell me they can move the shoulder back, they can not tell me how they do it.

my favorite fired case has an additional length of .008" between the shoulder to the case head

The .008" means the chamber was .003" longer than a go-gage length chamber.

F. Guffey

 

[Fred B.]

 

[L W P]

Mozella you said that "What I like about my method is that it minimizes individual cartridge handling". But to me you do a lot to your brass before seating a bullet. I mean sizing it with dies and then coming back again to size the neck with a mandrel. I like also to keep track of my firings on my brass to give me a idea on case life.

 

[Joe R]

Question #1: Do you anneal before resizing fired brass or after resizing? #2: If before resizing do you deprime and wash first?

1. deprime
2. wash brass with SS pins
   
3. dry brass
4. trim
5. chamfer & deburr
6. blow inside case with compressed air
7. anneal
8. lube
9. resize
10. etc.

 

[L W P]

Not sure that I would trim, chamfer & deburr before I resize. What if the brass grows after resizing?

 

[BOB LEE SWAGGER]

1. deprime
2. wash brass
3. dry brass
4. trim
5. chamfer & deburr
6. blow inside case with compressed air
7. anneal
8. lube
9. resize
10. etc.

Trim before resize?

 

[BOB LEE SWAGGER]

1. deprime
2. corn cob vibratory clean
3. anneal
4. resize
5. SS tumble
6. trim
7. chamfer, deburr

 

[T-shooter]

How do you remove the lube after you resize? Do you individually clean each case by hand?

Dish washing detergent and hot tap water in a small jar (1-2 quart size). Agitate and let soak for an hour, then rinse a couple times. For a larger quantity, a rotating media separator works well to remove most of the water. For just a few, I tap them neck down a few times to get most of the water out and then sit them neck up overnight. Be sure all the water has dried. Water in the cases can cause overpressure when it turns to steam. If you have an understanding wife you can put them in the oven for an hour at 175-200° (best not to tell her!)

 

[T-shooter]

[QUOTE

And then there is bullet hold, I want all the bullet hold I can get.

F. Guffey

Here's a tip for you Guffey. Just use JB Weld and a Q-tip to lube your case necks. [/QUOTE]
Do I need a welding helmet?

 

[madmixerman]

Great thread answers a lot of questions. My primary question is how often should you anneal; I know some people make it a habit to anneal after every firing I know it doesn't hurt the brass unless you over anneal. My question is how often is it necessary to anneal. I've heard after every 5-6 firings. I don't know, this annealing is new to me. I just want to anneal when it's really necessary.

Apparently there is no real answer, it's personal preference.

 

[divingin]

Not sure that I would trim, chamfer & deburr before I resize. What if the brass grows after resizing?

Assuming you trim every sequence, it probably doesn't matter all that much. It may grow when sizing, but it won't be a lot. If you're shooting everything through one chamber and treating the brass consistently, the growth should be roughly the same on each case, so you still end up with a reasonably consistent product.

Personally, I trim after sizing.

 

[Fred B.]

Here's a tip for you Guffey. Just use JB Weld and a Q-tip to lube your case necks.

Do I need a welding helmet?[/QUOTE]
No need for helmet.
Just don't BUMP the shoulder.

 

[fguffey]

Do I need a welding helmet?

If you drink I suggest your stop. I believe you are silly enough sober.

F. Guffey

 

[Nature Boy]

I have an Annealeez and anneal after every firing, before resizing. The machine makes it too easy not to.