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What's your favorite target crown on your ppc or Br and why?

NC/Br Shooter

What's your favorite target crown on your ppc or Br and why? I got asked this question and didn't have an answer. At least I really had no reason but to say the traditional 11 degree recessed crown.
Isn't this the one designed that way for protection?

Looking at the barrels Iv shot this past couple years. I have three different types. 11, one flat, then a flat, step down looking one
Does one type benefit 6mn as opposed to 30 cal?

I'm sure there have been experiments done to see the effects of different crowns on Benchrest guns.
Have ther been any new ones devised that have shown promise?

What kind do you have and why?
 
A target crown is just that, flat or 11* from bore to outside of the face. Flat is great, but the 11* gives a tad bit of protection at the bore, either are popular for target rifles.

Not at all what I want on my hunting rifles. That crown needs some sort of protection protruding past the bore to help protect it, a straight 11* may be better but rolled out and back gives much better protection from bumps and contact at the bore, where one bump can make it extremely inaccurate. Trade offs for everything, again, everything!
 
when I was just starting to shoot short range bench there was a fellow bench Rester he was a engineer
and a real smart guy . took, a gun that was shooting in teens with a flat crown slight chamfer . and recrowned it to a 11 degree.it shot the same . then recrown back to a flat crown it shot the same.
than took hand held chamfer tool and put in a chamfer small 60 degree and it was good. he wanted to see
if he could touch up the crown very 500 shots or so with putting back in the lathe and the answerer was yes.
since then I put in flat crowns with a little chamfer . on bench rest guns that i build. I know a lot shooters
that swear by there method . proof is in the rifle . old rick
 
rickhirsch said:
when I was just starting to shoot short range bench there was a fellow bench Rester he was a engineer
and a real smart guy . took, a gun that was shooting in teens with a flat crown slight chamfer . and recrowned it to a 11 degree.it shot the same . then recrown back to a flat crown it shot the same.
than took hand held chamfer tool and put in a chamfer small 60 degree and it was good. he wanted to see
if he could touch up the crown very 500 shots or so with putting back in the lathe and the answerer was yes.
since then I put in flat crowns with a little chamfer . on bench rest guns that i build. I know a lot shooters
that swear by there method . proof is in the rifle . old rick
Click to expand...
Sending you a message
 
The type and style of crown has no bearing on accuracy etc…sorry to burst any bubbles.

Sporter radius, 11 degree, stepped recess, flat style etc…. To each his own preference.

The edge of the bore needs to be burr free and square/perpendicular to the bore. How ever you want to say it. It needs to be uniform. Any burr at the bore edge left over from crowning and the first bullet or two down the bore can and will break the burr away and leave a jagged edge. It can affect accuracy.

What usually isn’t talked about…. I Hate a hard edge crown at the bore. Guys break the frickin edge. We break the bore edge at 60 degrees. Just enough needs to be done so it does the lands and grooves. I can post a pic tomorrow.

It helps with premature wear/gas cutting to the edge of the crown when the bullets are leaving the barrel as well as it helps with cleaning damage for shooters who clean they’re barrels like they are cleaning a clogged toilet.

The number one thing we see when someone complains about the barrel not shooting… is a messed up crown. Either from when it was done or from cleaning damage.

Later, Frank
Bartlein Barrels
 
FrankG said:
The type and style of crown has no bearing on accuracy etc…sorry to burst any bubbles.

Sporter radius, 11 degree, stepped recess, flat style etc…. To each his own preference.

The edge of the bore needs to be burr free and square/perpendicular to the bore. How ever you want to say it. It needs to be uniform. Any burr at the bore edge left over from crowning and the first bullet or two down the bore can and will break the burr away and leave a jagged edge. It can affect accuracy.

What usually isn’t talked about…. I Hate a hard edge crown at the bore. Guys break the frickin edge. We break the bore edge at 60 degrees. Just enough needs to be done so it does the lands and grooves. I can post a pic tomorrow.

It helps with premature wear/gas cutting to the edge of the crown when the bullets are leaving the barrel as well as it helps with cleaning damage for shooters who clean they’re barrels like they are cleaning a clogged toilet.

The number one thing we see when someone complains about the barrel not shooting… is a messed up crown. Either from when it was done or from cleaning damage.

Later, Frank
Bartlein Barrels
Click to expand...
More crowns, or to be exact the last 1/2 ior so inches of barrels are ruined with cleaning rods.
learn to stop that darned thing the instant it clears the ID.

Frank, I do leave my crowns without a tool cut bevel, mainly because I freshen them up on a regular basis. For those that do not have the capability to do this, your advise is well taken.

this is my typical crown. The only reason I counter face it is I think it looks good.IMG_2500.jpeg
 
Jackie brings up a good point. If you like sharp hard edge crown and you take the barrel off once in a while to freshen it up. I'm good with that.

I left my flash drive at home with all my pic's on it but here is a factory Win. target crown. You can see the chamfer at the bore edge so you know what I'm talking about.

The chamfer on the bore edge is called out on all the prints for test barrels for the Gov't as well. As long as I can remember. Also look at M1G and M14 barrels etc... the prints all call out the chamfer.

Any test barrel we do here or a customer install we put the chamfer on the bore.

Again I have and have shot them all. The style of crown makes no difference.

What I do like about the 11 degree target crown on a polished s.s. barrel. When you fire it you will get that flower/petal type look on the face from the carbon fouling. You can use that as a indicator on how the gases are releasing from the muzzle. If you see a real abnormal look to the carbon... could be a good indicator to check your crown for any damage.
 

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FrankG said:
Guys break the frickin edge. We break the bore edge at 60 degrees. Just enough needs to be done so it does the lands and grooves. I can post a pic tomorrow.

It helps with premature wear/gas cutting to the edge of the crown when the bullets are leaving the barrel as well as it helps with cleaning damage for shooters who clean they’re barrels like they are cleaning a clogged toilet.

The number one thing we see when someone complains about the barrel not shooting… is a messed up crown. Either from when it was done or from cleaning damage.

Later, Frank
Bartlein Barrels
Click to expand...

Looking forward to seeing that picture. Thank you sir. WD
 
WyleWD said:
Looking forward to seeing that picture. Thank you sir. WD
Click to expand...

Here ya go....from left to right in the picture..... flat style crown (that's an original Winchester 52D that needed to be recrowned), a deep stepped recess crown (I call this the Marine Corp style), an 11 degree target in the middle, a regular stepped recess and on the far right a sporter radius crown. If you look close, they all have the chamfer at the bore edge.

Again, performance wise... you won't see a difference.

Later, Frank
 

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I can list many records set with flat crowns and chamfered crowns. I decide based on the type of rifle. A BR barrel that has a relatively short life and will be cleaned carefully by a skilled owner gets a flat crown. Which gets a little recess just for looks. Hunting rifles or barrels that last forever like a 30 br or rimfire get a chamfer. Most BR barrels will be worn out with iosso long before the crown gets hurt ;)
 
Unless someone asks for something specific, I recess a flat crown. If it's a personal barrel, I currently leave a sharp edge on the bore - if I ding it cleaning it, it's not big deal for me to recut it. For other people I'll cut an 8 thou chamfer.... For a tactical type rifle I'll do a more aggressive chamfer. I don't think it makes a bit of difference on target.

That lets me do the whole barrel with the compound at 30 degrees. I'm lazy.
 
I normally do a 11 degree sharp edge crown for myself. Now, not
long ago, I cut back a worn barrel to use as a fire forming mule.
For the crown, I just chucked up a 60 degree chamfer and pushed
it in. Crown looked like a powder funnel. For this scenario, it just
needed to be minute of berm.....
 
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