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What I have Recently Learned About Chambering

A simple method I use for timing fluted barrels is,unscrew current barrel.clean threads,shoulder,action face etc.retighten with torque wrench.i use 70ftlbs.scribe inline witness marks on barrel and action.slacken action then screw back up to shoulder by hand measure the gap in between witnesses marks and record dimension.lightly mark straight lines down centre of flutes onto barrel tennon.thread tennon and machine barrel shoulder until one obtains pre recorded dimension inbetween witness mark's.when chambering,headspace is done and final fit is ready torque to 70ftlbs and your on the money.ive found it work's well.just another way to skin the cat.
 
How do you use the flush with the short barrel fixtures? I guess you could thread the muzzle, then take off the fixture (I have the Viper fixture), thread on the extension and chamber normally.
 
How long is that barrel you have in there? Just wondering how short you can go with that lathe

That barrel was 26". Can do around 19" thru headstock. Any shorter, I've got extensions to either screw onto tenon or screw onto muzzle thread. Unless it's an Thompson Encore or Contender needing threaded muzzle, then anything under about 22" has to be done between centers, then steady rest.
 
Not possible on a manual lathe. I don't know what additional capabilities a CNC lathe might have- but unless there's some mechanism whereby the contact of the insert to the tenon is precisely timed to the spindle rotation it can't happen there either.

This is above my pay grade, but far as I know the only way to time threads as used in shouldered prefits (or the "clocking the muzzle" application to which you're referring) is by thread milling.


Simple double-spider rig in a 4-jaw is what I use for shorties.


Only thing I can add to the flush system topic is type of filter I use, haven't seen it mentioned before.
AO Smith water filtration setup, with 20 micron filter.



Magnets, of course- but they don't do a thing for stainless chips. Layer of the "universal" type plastic air filter stuff cut to fit in the drain pan

I use a similar jig for short stuff. Ruger mark 2 barrel in that pic. Got a some kind of micron filter too.
 

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Even with cnc you cant get the timing perfect. Pitch diameter will change timing. Actions do have variation in the thread pd. Even if you start the thread in the same place timing will vary because the pd will vary with tool changes.
Understood, thanks.
This further boggles my mind with shouldered prefits.
Assuming the receiver mfg holds tolerances to +/- .001 (I believe I read that from Defiance- correct me if I'm wrong) for rear face of lug to boltface, and also for receiver ring face to lug abutments; and then the barrel machinist has to hold similar tolerances for shoulder to breech, and chamber depth/shoulder to face of go gage- I don't understand how tolerance stacking given all these ops works out.

Or, maybe it doesn't, all the time...
 
Understood, thanks.
This further boggles my mind with shouldered prefits.
Assuming the receiver mfg holds tolerances to +/- .001 (I believe I read that from Defiance- correct me if I'm wrong) for rear face of lug to boltface, and also for receiver ring face to lug abutments; and then the barrel machinist has to hold similar tolerances for shoulder to breech, and chamber depth/shoulder to face of go gage- I don't understand how tolerance stacking given all these ops works out.

Or, maybe it doesn't, all the time...
Well if you have a bolt end gap of .007 or .009 does it really matter?
 
I know this is somewhat of a taboo topic here but curiosity also killed the cat so here goes…safe to assume all pre-fits are indicated on both ends rather than back of the chamber and throat? I assume thi s because there isn’t action timing with that method.

At this point, I have used a Viper fixture and I’ve also made 8” barrel extensions that thread onto the chamber end. I bought a bunch of 1.25” bar stock when I first got my lathe to “practice” on…the extra made perfect extensions.
 
Understood, thanks.
This further boggles my mind with shouldered prefits.
Assuming the receiver mfg holds tolerances to +/- .001 (I believe I read that from Defiance- correct me if I'm wrong) for rear face of lug to boltface, and also for receiver ring face to lug abutments; and then the barrel machinist has to hold similar tolerances for shoulder to breech, and chamber depth/shoulder to face of go gage- I don't understand how tolerance stacking given all these ops works out.

Or, maybe it doesn't, all the time...
If you dont time barrels it wont matter. If you do it will. Most actions do pretty well with headspace. Pitch diameter not so much.
 
Understood, thanks.
This further boggles my mind with shouldered prefits.
Assuming the receiver mfg holds tolerances to +/- .001 (I believe I read that from Defiance- correct me if I'm wrong) for rear face of lug to boltface, and also for receiver ring face to lug abutments; and then the barrel machinist has to hold similar tolerances for shoulder to breech, and chamber depth/shoulder to face of go gage- I don't understand how tolerance stacking given all these ops works out.

Or, maybe it doesn't, all the time...

Prefits are easy.. but timing the barrel isn't possible if you don't have the action in hand.
 
All this talk has me wanting to start a project.

What are the major components needed? I found the pump and motor on amazon...

Tank > pump pre-filter > pump > valve > micron filter > barrel attachment

I assume a pressure gauge would be desired... after the valve?




 
All this talk has me wanting to start a project.

What are the major components needed? I found the pump and motor on amazon...

Tank > pump pre-filter > pump > valve > micron filter > barrel attachment

I assume a pressure gauge would be desired... after the valve?




Id use a back pressure regulator on a return to the tank. Think fuel injection systems
 
All this talk has me wanting to start a project.

What are the major components needed? I found the pump and motor on amazon...

Tank > pump pre-filter > pump > valve > micron filter > barrel attachment

I assume a pressure gauge would be desired... after the valve?




Add a pressure relief/bypass valve to adjust final pressure. Install it before the shutoff/ball valve (pump side). It will also bypass back to the tank when you shut the valve.

 
I recommend one of these:


I'll take a pic of my valve body and post tomorrow.
 
I started with a reservoir from Northern Tool, then welded up a frame to hold the pump, filter, valving, and regulator, trying to keep it all compact and mobile. My catch pan drain hose is marginally big enough. Using Ridgid extreme oil I have to pause a few mins to let it catch up sometimes. Not really a problem as I’m in no hurry.EF05F299-4C39-4FCD-B659-6F0D8D9F7203.jpeg
 
Only guessing but I'd say the in / out may be the other way around so pressure will relieve if the filter is blocked and you use the gauge to check how blocked the filter is.

The secondary relief valve on the back of the splash back would be doing the barrel side relief.

I have mine mounted on the splash back the same and find it really handy to be able to watch gauges and adjust pressures on the fly. Air flush is also helpful but just be prepared for $#!+ to be going everywhere if you don't have the end covered in some way!!
 
I started with a reservoir from Northern Tool, then welded up a frame to hold the pump, filter, valving, and regulator, trying to keep it all compact and mobile. My catch pan drain hose is marginally big enough. Using Ridgid extreme oil I have to pause a few mins to let it catch up sometimes. Not really a problem as I’m in no hurry.View attachment 1358662

Which pump and motor did you use?
 
All this talk has me wanting to start a project.

What are the major components needed? I found the pump and motor on amazon...

Tank > pump pre-filter > pump > valve > micron filter > barrel attachment

I assume a pressure gauge would be desired... after the valve?




Shop around a bit. I got mine from eBay for about $75. That was the pump, motor, base and a surge tank (which I didn't have a use for, but sold to a welder friend as part of a TIG cooler project he was doing for $25)

This is essentially what I bought but for less:


I bought a filter from McMaster Carr for another $35 and tubing/fittings from Lowes.

 

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