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What I have Recently Learned About Chambering

tobnpr said:
I use a (similar, but 120v) Shurflo pump. 3.3 gpm, 45 psi
Santoprene valves also as needed for resistance to oils/solvents.

The thought of 100-150 psi scared the shiznit out of me, where the end of the supply to the muzzle isn't hard-plumbed. I know some actually D&T the muzzle end for NPT fittings- and that's a safer bet IMO when using high pressure pumps.

The trade-off comes with volume, esp when using sulfur cutting oil and not synthetic coolant/lube due to it's much greater viscosity. A high-pressure system will be more able to clear the chips without needing to shut down the spindle and back out the reamer, esp if the reamers are cut with flushing grooves. With the lower pressure system, I still need to shut down frequently, back out the reamer to let the flush clear the chips, but it's only a few seconds and it's a trade-off I'm fine with.

Plumbed with bypass hoses/valves it's easier to regulate the flow nice and steady rather than having it pulsing on/off with the pressure switch on the pump. Modified Grizzly coolant sump (the pump just serves still as a withdrawal tube for the oil to the Shurflo pump).

You'll find that high flow volume is nice- until you try to get all that volume gravity fed back to the sump. Again, the viscosity of cutting oil isn't a friend here- my 3/4" return gets the job done, but barely. If I crank the flow up a bit more than I need it overflows the catch pan. 1" return line would be better, but 1" hose is tougher to wrangle around/not user friendly for a system that gets removed when the flush system is not in use.

2xTxuBRh.jpg
Click to expand...

Nice. I don't like the idea of 150 PSI either. I like a clean shop :) Seems like most people are running lower PSI anyway... a pump capable of 70 should do it.. even after it pushes through joints and a micron filter.
 
Take note of what Dave was saying about not having a "high pressure system" but having higher flow.

My system does high pressure up to 80psi but only about 1.25GPM and double that at least would be better. I set the relief valve at 40psi and have tried higher but what I see is the front throat, neck, shoulder area are clear but there is often chips sitting on the flutes of the body which I think is due to not enough flow around the larger diameter body where the fluid slows down after jetting past the pilot and the smaller diameter areas
 
1- make sure your reamer is setup for through barrel coolant.
2- flow is more important than pressure.
3- a standard coolant pump is adequate for both pressure and volume.
4- Castrol 9974 is a water soluble gun drilling fluid that works great for chambering. It is clear, clean, and doesnt stink.
 
Walt Krafft said:
1- make sure your reamer is setup for through barrel coolant.
2- flow is more important than pressure.
3- a standard coolant pump is adequate for both pressure and volume.
4- Castrol 9974 is a water soluble gun drilling fluid that works great for chambering. It is clear, clean, and doesnt stink.
Click to expand...

Someone I trust is using water based coolant (SYN4300) with the factory coolant pump. He's happy with it. I'm on the fence about going with oil or water based, personally.
 
Walt Krafft said:
make sure your reamer is setup for through barrel coolant.
Click to expand...
The grooves do help.
But I do wonder if there could be more done in terms of coolant-thru design for reamers- particularly those of larger bore dia., to facilitate flow further down the body of the tool.
 
tobnpr said:
The grooves do help.
But I do wonder if there could be more done in terms of coolant-thru design for reamers- particularly those of larger bore dia., to facilitate flow further down the body of the tool.
Click to expand...
A number of the reamers I have use grooves or flats on the bushing to get greater flow. JGS makes some, and some industrial suppliers do them this way.
 
Here are pics of my valve body.

C613D091-C1C2-4428-B267-398DE6242516.jpeg

I don't use it like a CNC, where the chamber might be cut in one pass. I run in the reamer .050 to .100 then back out. The flush washes away the chips and I run in the reamer again. I have no special bushings with grooves. This way of chambering is at least here times as fast as manually cleaning off the chips from the reamer and out of the bore.
 
Last edited:
I ordered a pickup load of small odds and ends to get this project going. I'll start a thread when progress starts. I looked around all over and there doesn't seem to be a good resource start-to-finish.
 
Do it to it. It’s a small grizzly.
I can’t shoot worth a fuck.
My rifles win matches though.
 

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ridgeway said:
There is no reason you can't chamber in a 3 jaw. It's all in how you go about things. Many ways to skin a cat...
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Yes Sir !! Trust your set up and what the indicator points are telling
you. I have a few 3 jaw chambers under my belt. The only one I have
not done is chambering off of a steady rest.
 
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