Water soluble case lube

[rogn]

I use Lee case lube. I put a few dozen flannel cleaning patches in a gallon freeze bag. About 1-1 1/4" of lube along with enough 90+% isopropyl alcohol to distribute the lube thru the patches with a wet feeling. I can put about 50 clean 308 cases in this bag and agitate , shake rattle and roll for a few minutes. You will usually have enough lube in the case necks to lube them as well. I do not use an expander ball for resizing any more, just an expanding mandrel. You will have to add small amounts of lube as you do more cases. I have been able to go back after the patches have dried and reconstitute with a dab of lube and an appropriate amount of alcohol.
Cases are a little bit slicker when wet but either way is fine. I usually wipe cases off with a towel as I prep them further. No issues with dents or rust.
About100 556 cases =50 308 cases.

 

[One Eye Pete]

No matter what case lube you use if you want to do something to prevent stuck cases polish the interior of your sizing die. When I get a new sizing die I take a little Flitz (or any good very fine metal polish) on a paper towel or a rag and I polish the inside of the die to a mirror finish. It takes about a half hour to do by hand but it makes quite a difference in the force required to size the case. And No it doesn't change the dimensions of the die I'm not using lapping compound.
For really hard sizing like reforming cases I use Imperial Die Wax.
Hornady one shot works well for normal hi-volume reloading where I'm not looking for pinpoint accuracy. I don't use it for match cases because I'm not sure what effect it will have if it gets on the inside of the case neck and with a spray it can be hard to keep out of the neck.
Lately I have been using Ballistol as a case lube on my match cases. Its great for wiping carbon from the case necks and with the polished dies its all the lubricant I need. Very little goes a long way as it goes on very thin and it wipes off much easier than Imperial Die Wax. The only word of caution is if you use it to remove carbon from the case neck before annealing make sure you wipe it off or you just end up with more carbon after you anneal.

 

[Bill K]

Imperial case wax or Hornady One shot. either work great and they wipe off so easy with a twist of a cloth, if you want too.

 

[Murray Brook]

I've been using Lee lube for close to 40 yrs of reloading and never had a lube problem, wet or dry. Using the proper amount will not lead to dented cases and I have never had a rust problem. I also use it as an inside neck lubricant for the first firing after annelling. Leave it dry and it won't contiminate the powder ( according to Lee and my experience with it) and it flows good through the neck. JME

 

[rox]

I’ve been using lanolin based case lube forever and it works great. Until it’s time to clean it off the cases.

How are you de-lubing? I toss them in walnut media (25/52 grit) and 45 mins later the lube is gone - about the time it takes me to size the next tumbler-load.

 

[Delfuego]

I gave up on OneShot and made my own lanolin/alcohol spray. Sizing is a little easier than OneShot, heck of a lot cheaper and always in stock. It is a little messy, but 20 minutes in walnut and it's gone. I also use Imperial wax for some stuff.

 

[10XSHOOTER]

I use RCBS or REDDING water soluble lube, then they go on the pins in the dish washer. Hot water and no soap. they come out clean and dry!