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Time to make the donuts....

Since you cannot compress a liquid, I would think that even a very small amount of lube captured between the core and the base, it would be imperative to keep any lube at a minimum least there be a void.
That’s probably why for best bullet consistency, completely clean and dry is the best bet.

It seems I read some where that Sierra did include a core lube before seating cores.
 
Randy's credit to Jonas Hallgrimson is part of the excellent bullet making history article in the January 1985 issue of Precision Shooting Magazine. For anyone interested in making their own bullets, that article is day 1 of 'Bullet Making 101' class. From the article:

"Editors note: Jonas Hallgrimson was a vital part of the evolution of thought and logic that lead to the development of the Biehler And Astles dies. The B&A bullet making dies were a great breakthrough in the development of accuracy; they were the forerunner of todays dies....all of which trace their lineage to B&A....their development was one of the landmarks of the sport".

Here's a copy I made of the B&A catalog page from that article:

nQNKOZ7l.jpg
Al, Here are the originals that I have they actually came as a pamphlet
 

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and now on to the lubing of cores, this has been done for probably the last 15 maybe 20 years. just a very light film helps core to fill out and during the point up process. I have cut apart a whole bunch of bullets and you would be surprised at how many people ( that are winning matches that are doing it ). On the opposite side I have seen a whole bunch that look like they just came from jiffy lube with oil everywhere. thats most likely not the best....this is like the whole bleedby discussion people just refuse to even try it, I hear the answer my bullets are good I'm winning matches. the difference between good bullets and great bullets is actually trying somethings and not being so narrow minded
 
Also I forgot yes Sierra lubes the core wire cuts squirts and then straight into jackets to coreseat and pointup
That’s good to know.
I just got 10,000 new cores from Charlie, I could sacrifice some jackets to see how it works.
The question:
What to use? I still use pure lanolin on the jackets.
How much? I am using .5 grains of Lanolin on approx 500 jackets tumbled for 30 minutes during core seat. It’s barely detectable but seems to work.
 
That’s good to know.
I just got 10,000 new cores from Charlie, I could sacrifice some jackets to see how it works.
The question:
What to use? I still use pure lanolin on the jackets.
How much? I am using .5 grains of Lanolin on approx 500 jackets tumbled for 30 minutes during core seat. It’s barely detectable but seems to work.
just rinse in white gas or acetone if you want it evaporate quicker with enough atf to just turn it slightly red it will leave just a slight residue
 
just rinse in white gas or acetone if you want it evaporate quicker with enough atf to just turn it slightly red it will leave just a slight residue
George
Does the oxidation on the cores from etching with vinegar serve the same purpose as the transmission fluid
In other words, are they having the same effect on core seating
 
just rinse in white gas or acetone if you want it evaporate quicker with enough atf to just turn it slightly red it will leave just a slight residue
5 ml atf to 16oz of acetone is a good place to start but you can play with the mix a little bit. That's what I use on my Rorschach fb Dies.
It's hard to detect that the cores are even lubed. I think when people hear the term "wet" cores they think of dripping wet.......
 
Has anyone done any dry lubes on the cores such as Mica types,
Molybdenumdisulfides or the Teflon powders ?? Could just dust
them up in a cloth bag.......I was just touching up my bench bags
with some moly powder and said.....Hmnnnn ??
 
Has anyone done any dry lubes on the cores such as Mica types,
Molybdenumdisulfides or the Teflon powders ?? Could just dust
them up in a cloth bag.......I was just touching up my bench bags
with some moly powder and said.....Hmnnnn ??
Not that I know of. But I will say the last thing I want to do is introduce anything dusty to my bullet making environment. Lubed jackets would attract that stuff like a magnet.
 
I've been running "wet" cores for quite awhile now. I only use pure lead wire and at times (many) would get flakes sticking on the core seat punch and never in a convenient spot to pick it off.
The recipe I use(modified) came from Gary Conaway.
Degrease the cores after squirting. 7 or 8 ml of ATF mixed in 16 oz of methylene chloride, then put your cores(3 to 5 thousand) in a large stainless bowl and pour the mix on. Just stir lightly to make sure everything is covered and scoop the cores out onto some towels, they dry very very fast. pick one up and you really can't feel the lube--but a handful--yup. I can go through at least a couple of buckets and never get flakes sticking to the punches.
There are lots of folks using Hood cores who seat them as they come--still with the lube on them with no issues.
Later, Mark Buettgen
IMG950448.jpgIMG951491.jpgIMG950699.jpg
 

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